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THE AMERICAN 

DESIGNER and CUTTER 



A Complete, Practical and 
Up-to-date Work on the 
Art of Designing, Cutting, 
Grading, Fitting, Sketching 
and Practical Tailoring of 
all kinds of Womens', Miss- 
es', Juniors', Childrens' 
and Infants' Garments 



Prof. Sr SCHORR 



Publishers 

AMERICAN PAT! ERN COMPANY 

New York, U. S. A. 






COPYRIGHT 1915. B Y SAUL SCHORR 

Entered according to act of Congress in the office 

of tlie Librarian of Congress at Washington, 

D. C, and any infringements on the 

Copyright will be prosecuted to 

the fullest extent of 

the law. 



AUG I6I9I5 



)CI,A411102 



?l^ 



Preface 

THE freely expressed wishes of my numerous correspondents and pupils, in- 
duced me to put into book form this compilation of several year's observation, 
experiment and practice in the art of Designing and Garment cutting. 

This book is devoted to the art of designing, cutting, grading, fitting, 
sketching and practical tailoring of all kinds of Ladies', Misses', Juniors', Childrens' 
and Infants' Garments. 

I trust the trade will here acknowledge an honest attempt at finding a work 
of a permanent nature, that no matter how fashion may fluctuate, will conveniently 
be at hand as a guide to the principles of designing and garment cutting to ensure 
artistic results. 

I have given such details of instruction as should make this not only an in- 
valuable handbook for the student, but a most useful work of reference for the 
experience Designer, Cutter and Pattern- Maker who wishes to be up to date in 
this important department. 

I am convinced that any person of average intelligence can become a master 
of the art through the medium of this publication, whether it be a practical Designer, 
Cutter or Pattern-maker, or one totally unaquciinted with the art of designing and 
garment cutting. 

1 have spared neither labor nor expense in making the volume worthy of 
the highest place in the Designer's and Cutter's library, and in introducing this book 
to a world-wide audience believeing that it will be of great service in helping to 
achive success as Designer, Cutter and Pattern-Maker. 

THE AUTHOR 



Introduction. 

THIS work is a result of many years' study, research, and experiment, in 
which no pains have been spared to perfect. 

The student will find the system extremely simple and entirely free 
from complication; no scale, chart and divisions of any kind is used, simple 
the ordinary inch measure. 

The method by which the location of all points on the draft are found 
in numerical order in the descriptive text is new in principle and by its sim- 
plicity is systematized, time economized and trouble absolutely eliminated. 

This important and thoroughly comprehensive work is new in principle 
and is at the same time simpler and more direct than any other system before 
the trade. 

SAUL SCHORR 



10 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



What a Designer Should Know 

What a Designer requires to do is to bring ideas into new associations and in 
order to do this he must be ever on the alert to gather them from the books of bygone 
age, ac well as from the passing crowd. These ideas must be not only brought into new 
associationc, but they must be blended with the prevailing ideas of fashions, or they will 
not be acceptable. 

Of course the Designer needs to realize that there are certain fundamental rules 
that must be obeyed; for instance, there must be unity between the design of one part 
and another. There must be order in the arrangement, and there must be a proportion 
running through it all, for these three, unity, order and proportion, are the laws of beauty. 

These we may obey, and still gather an idea for a skirt from one costume, a 
sleeve from an other, a collar from a third and a body part from a fourth illustration, 
blending the whole into one harmonious whole by some style of ornamentation which 
acts as a connecting link between the various parts. 

Ladies' Tailor Qualifications 

The qualifications necessary to become a successful ladies' taibr are many and 
various. He must be an artistic nature with an eye to beauty, so that he will be able to 
blend his colors to match the ladies' complection, and to arrange the seams, braiding, 
etc., so as to poduce the best effect on his customer. 

He must have a knowledge of materials and the latest method of decoration. He 
must be gentlemanly in manners and conversation, courteous and obliging, and be pos- 
sessed with an abudance of tact and ability to please, and treat his customers with respect. 

He should be able to take his measure easy and graceful, and he should avoid 
all undue handling of his customer. He should never stand directly in front of her, and 
he should abstain hom all unnecessary conversation. 

He should also have a practical and technical knowledge of his trade, and be able 
to design garments, and produce them up-to-date and to fit the figure. 

These qualities, assiduously cultivated, will enable the aspirant to achieve success. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



System 



One of the most important things to consider in order to become a proficient Design- 
er, Cutter or Pattarn-Maker is the abihty to cut perfect fitting patterns. Every Designer and 
Cutter who is interested in the elevation of his industry and the satisfaction of his patrons, 
should make it a study to be competent in his pattern cutting. The knowledge of a system 
of cutting IS necessarily the first step towards a practical position. 

The intelligent student of designing and garment cutting will require some guidance 
as to the principles, or basis, upon which the system is constructed. It is not sufficient that 
he should merely understand the location of a few construction lines, and the fewr divisional 
quantities that produce them. 

There are many mature Designers and Cutters now in practice who look back with 
surprise upon the number of systems (so-called) that they experimented with. The explana- 
tion of this very foolish practice consist in the fact that such students, though letter-perfect, 
so far as the actual working of their system is concerned, are absolutely devoid of all 
know^ledge of the principle (if any) upon which it has been found. 

It is only the student who has been well grounded in this essential information who 
can logically estimate the results of his practice. If the principles upon which a system is 
based are unreliable, there can be no hope of anything approaching uniform success in its 
use, but if the principles are right the casual troubles that arise can be expeditiously and 
effectually rectified. 

Good Lines 

The designer and cutter of to-day must be an artist to fully grasp what is the good 
line. As soon as this idea is grasped it is necessary to change again after the caprices of 
fashion. That what is considered the perfect line to-day is altogether changed for to-morrow. 
The eyes must be always open. 

It is difficult to follow this movement. Happily many ladies are content if their cos- 
tume fits well, but the greater part of dressy ladies desire that the lines must be perfect. 



\2 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 

Contrasts 

In ladies' garments marked contrasts often produce the very best results, and the 
introduction of a little velvet or brade in the trimming, or the use of some special make 
of button, gives the entire garment a character which pronunces it a stylish creation. 

In the selection of the lining excellent effects can be produced by employing compli- 
mentary colors such as a green lining for a russet coat, or a citrine lining for a blue coat, 

or a primrose lining for a heliotrop cloth, and so on. 

Excellent effects are often obtained by the use of white silk or satin linings, or such 

shades as silver gray, which goes well with any cloth. 

1 think these contrasts are more succesful than the best of matches. 

Fashions 

Fashions in fema'e garments change rapidly, and as most ladies' demaed to be dressed 
in harmony with the latest style, it becomes desirable for the designer and ladies' tailor to 
keep him self well posted up in what is being worn. This may be done in several ways. 
In the first place he should carefully note what is being worn at the centres of fashion he 
visits, and particularly study the exhibits of those firms of note who have made a reputa- 
tion for this class of trade. 

Then it is very important that he should take in some fashion periodical, which illus- 
trate the latest features of fashion in such a way as to render them easy of applicaton to 
tailor-made garments; and that is what is most wanted. 



Style 



As in garment designing, so in cutting, style has ever played an important part in 
the trade. Style is the artistic finish given to the garment in order that it may have char- 
acter about it. The run of the seams, the finish of the edges, together with the size and 
finish of the lapels, collar and sleeves, must all be appropriate to the material used, and 
to the purpose the garment in intended for. Fashion plates are the means of portraying 
the character or style of the garments, and are interpretations of the style of the garments 
favored by the various classes of the cmmunity it is our duty to cater for. 



PART ONE 



WOMEN'S GARMENTS 



14 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



How to Take Measurement 



Fig. 1. Place the tape measure from the centre of back neck 
over the shoulder, continue down the front of shoulder, under the 
arm, and straight across the centre back seam in a horizontal line. 
Place a pin or make a light chalk mark where the tape measure 
meets the centre back seam horizontally. 

Fig. 2. Scye Depth Measure: Measure from the centre of 
back neck to the point where the pin had been placed or where 
the chalk mark has been made. 

Fig. 3. Back Waist Length Measure: Frcm the centre 
of back neck down to the natural waist length. Continue down to 
the full length as desired. 

Fig. 4. Bust Measure: Around the body under the arms, 
over the fullest part in front and well upon shoulder blades in back. 

Fig. 5. Waist Measure: Around the body at the waist. 

Fig. 6. Hip Measure: Around the body about 6 inches 
below the waist line. 

For sleeve length the measure from arm pit to wrist straight 
down under the arm (inside seam). 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



15 



How to take Measurements 




16 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 

Comparative Proportions for Normal 
Womans' Sizes 

Size is the measurement over the breast, and is 3 inches less than the Bust measure. 

Bust measure is 3 inches more than the Size. 

Example: Size 36 measures 39 inches Bust. Size 42 measures 45 inches Bust. 

Waist measure . To find the Waist measure add Vz of the size and V4 of the size less 
2 inches. 

Example: Size 36. Half is 18 and half of this is 9, together 27 less 2 inches is 
25 inches the Waist measure. 

Example: Size 38. Half is 19 and half of this is 9'/2, together 28'/2 less 2 inches 
is 26 '/2 inches the Waist measure. 

Hips measure is 4 inches more than the Size. 

Example : Size 36 measures 40 inches Hips. Size 40 measures 44 inches Hips. 
Neck Measure . V4 Size and 5 inches more will give the bodice size of neck. 

Example: Size 36. One-quarter of 36 is 9 and 5 inches more is 14 inches the bodice 

size of neck. 

Example: Size 42. One-quarter of 42 is 10'/2 and 5 inches more is 15'/2 inches the 

bodice size of neck. 
Ba ck width measure. '^ Size and 4'/2 inches more will give the Back width measure. 

Example : Size 36. One quarter of 36 is 9 and 4'/2 inches more is 13'/2 inches the 

Back width measure. 

Scye depth measure is 1 inch less than '/e total height. 

Example: 5 feet 6 inches height. One-eighth of 66 is 8!4 less 1 inch is 7'^ inches 

the Scye depth measure. 

Example : 5 feet 4 inches height. One-eighth of 64 is 8 less 1 inch is 7 inches the 

Scye depth measure. 
Back waist-length measure is 1 inch less than V4 total height. 

Example: 5 feel 6 inches height. One-quarter of 66 is 16'/2 less 1 inch is 15'/2 

inches the Back waist length. 

Example: 5 feet 2 inches height. One-quarter of 62 is 15'/2 less 1 inch is 14'/2 

inches the Back waist-length measure. 

Sleeve length is 2'/2 inches more than the Back waist-fength measure or l'/2 inches more 
than V4 total height. 

Example: By 15'/2 inches Back waist-length measure is the Sleeve length measure 
18 inches. 
Example: By 5 feet 6 inches height is the Sleeve length measure 18 inches. 

Skirt length in front is '/2 total height and 9 inches more ; side length is V2 total height 
and 10'/2 inches more; back length is Yj total height and 11 inches more. 
Example: 5 feet 6 inches. Skirt measure is: front 42 inches, side 43'/2 inches, 
back 44 inches. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



17 



Table of Proportionate Measurements 
For Women 



Size 


32 


34 


36 


38 


40 


42 


44 


Height 


^Feet 
2 inch. 


i^Feet 
4 inch. 


^"Feet 
6 inch. 


^Feet 
6 inch. 


^Feet 
6 inch. 


^Feet 
Ginch. 


^eet 
6 inch. 


Scye depth 


63/4 


7 


7/4 


7/4 


71/4 


71/4 


71/4 


Back waist length 


141/2 


15 


151/2 


15'/2 


151/2 


151/2 


151/2 


Bust 


35 


37 


39 


41 


43 


45 


47 


Waist 


22 


23/2 


25 


261/2 


28 


291/2 


31 


Hips 


36 


38 


40 


42 


44 


46 


48 


Neck 


13 


13/2 


14 


141/2 


15 


151/2 


16 


Back width 


12'/2 


13 


13/2 


14 


141/2 


15 


151/2 


Sleeve 


17 


17/2 


18 


18 


18 


18 


18 




Front length 


40 


41 


42 


42 


42 


42 


42 


Side length 


411/2 


421/2 


43 '/2 


431/2 


431/2 


431/2 


431/2 


Back length 


42 


43 


44 


44 


44 


44 


44 



18 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Systematical Outline 



MEASUREMENTS 



Scye depth 7'/t inches 

Back waist-length 15'/2 inches. 

Bust 40 inches. 



Waist 26 inches. 
Hips 41 inches. 
Sleeve 18 inches. 



TO DRAFT 



D 



Draw a straight line as from A to D. 

from A is the Scye depth Measure, in 

this case 7'^ inches. 

from A is the Back waist-length measure, 

in this case 15'/2 inches. 

from C is 6 inches always. 

Square out from A for the top line, from 
B for the bust line, from C for the waist 
line and from D for the hip line as repre- 
sented. 

from B is the half Bust measure and 4 
inches more, in this case 24 inches. 

is the half-way between B and E. 
is the half-way between E and F. 
is the half-way between B and F. 
from A is 5'/2 inches always. 
Square out from E, F, G and 1 as repre- 
sented. 

from I is 2!/( inches. 

from A is the half of the distance from B 
to H, in this case 3 inches. 

Square out from K as represented. 

is located by drawing a line from A to J. 

from H is 2 inches. 



Square out from M as represented. 

N from M is % inch less than the Scye depth 
measure, in this case 6% inches. 

O from N is V2 inch on line drawn from L 
through N. 

P is the half-way between M and N. 

Q from I is % inch. 

R is located by drawing a line from A 
through Q. 

S from G is 3'/4 inches. 

Square out from S as represented. 

T from is S 1% inches less than the dis- 
tance from G to R. 

U from R is % inch more than the distance 
from L to O on line drawn from R through 
T. Cut off the point at R of Ys inch as 
represented. 

V from S is 2 inches. Connect U— V. 
W from R is 2 inches. 

Square out from W as represented 

X from W is % inch more than the distance 
from A to K, in this case 3% inches. 

Y is located by a line squared out from E. 
Z is located by a line squared out from F. 



NOTICE 

To all Diagrams — designed in this Systematical Outline — are seam-allowan- 
ces of Ys inch allowed. 

In all Diagrams — designed in this Systematical Outline — is the half Waist 
measure with 7 inches less than the half Bust measure. See Waist Suppression on 
Page 20. 

In all Diagrams — des:gned in this Systematical Outline — is the half Hips 
measure with V2 inch more than the half Bust measure. (See Hips Development on 
Page 20. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



19 



Systematical Outline 




i¥ 



Y 



-4h 



^^ 



% 



20 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Tight-Fitting with One Dart 



First lay up all points to your measure 
as described in Systematical Outline, then 
continue as follows: 

1 from Z is Vi inch. 

2 from Y is 2'^ inches. 

Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 
through 2 as represented for the fashionable 
waist line. 

3 from C is 2 inches. 

4 from D is 1% inches. 

5 from 3 is 1 inch less than the distance 
from A to K. 

6 from 4 is % inch more than the distance 
from 3 to 5. 

Shape back part as represented. 

7 from 5 is % inch. 

8 from 6 is 1 inch. 

9 from F is % inch. 

10 from 1 is % inch. 

1 1 is located by drawing a line from 9 
through 10. 

12 is the half-way between H and 9. 

13 is the half-way between 7 and 10. 

14 is located by drawing a line from 12 
through 13. 

15 from 12 is 1 inch. 

16 from 13 is '/a inch. 

17 from 13 is Vz inch. 

18 from 14 is 1 inch. 

19 from 14 is 1 inch. 

20 from 11 is Vi inch. 

21 from P is Vi inch. 

22 from 21 is % inch for seam. 



23 from 15 is % inch for seam. 

Shape both side-gores as represented. 

24 from 10 is % inch, and is from 9 the 
same length as 9 to 10. 

25 from 1 1 is 1 '/i inches. 

Shape lines 9-24-25 as represented. 

26 from 2 is 1% inches. 

27 is located by drawing a line from E 
through 26. 

28 from G is 3'/t inches. 

29 from 28 is 2 inches on line drawn par- 
allel with line 1-2. 

30 is located by drawing a line from 29 
parallel with line E-26. 

31 from 30 is l'/4 inches. 

32 from 30 is 2% inches. 

33 from 29 is the same length as 31 from 
29. 

Draw a line from 24 to 33 for the run 
of the waist line. 

34 is located by drawing a line from 31 
parallel with line E-27. 

35 from 34 is % inch more than the dis- 
tance from 31 to 32. 

3C from 27 is % inch. 

Shape the center of front; finish on the 
front the neck gorge, shoulder, armhole and 
dart as represented. 
37 from 10 is the same length as 25 from 

24. 
33 from 35 is l'^ inches. 
39 from 31 is the same length as 38 from 

33. 
Finish the bottom as represented. 



WAIST SUPPRESSION. 

By applying this System the half Waist measure is with 7 inches less than the half Bust measure. 
For instance, 20 half Bust has 13 half Waist measure, 24 half Bust has 17 half Waist measure, 17 half 
Bust has 10 h?lf Waist measure, etc. 

It is Very easy to change the drah to your actual Waist measure, by following the instructions as below: 

The difference between the half actual Waist measure and the half sy-tematical Waist measure is to 
be added to by larger actual waist measure and to be taken off by smaller actual waist measure at the front dart. 

For instance by drafting a pattern with 40 bust measure the half of the systematical waist measure 
will be 13 inches, and if the half of your actual waist measure is 13'/2 inches, than you have to take out at 
the front dart 1/2 inch less: in this case take out on the draft from 30 to 32 only 214 inches. 

By drafting a pattern of 44 Bust measure the half of the systematical waist measure will be 15 
inches, and if the half of your actual waist measure is only 14 '/a inches than you have to take out at the 
front dart '72 inch more; in this case take out 3'/^ inches on draft from 30 to 32. 

HIPS DEVELOPMENT. 

By applying this System the half fdips measure is with 1/2 inch more than the half Bust measure. For 
instance 20 half Bust has 20'/2 half Hips measure, 24 half Bust has 24'/2 half l^ips measure, etc. 

It is very easy to change the draft to your actual Hips measure by following the instruction as below: 

The difference between the half actual Hips measure and the half systematical Hips measure is to be 
added to by larger actual Hips measure and to be taken off by smaller actual Hips measure on the hip line 
equally divided at potnts 8, 19, 18, 25 and 20. 

For instance by drafting a pattern of 40 Bust measure the half of the systematical Hips measure will 
be 20y2 inches, and if the half of your actual Hips measure is 22 '/2 inches, than you have to allow 2 inches 
on the hip line equally divided at points 8, 19, 18, 25 and 20, and vica-verse. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



21 



Tight-Fitting with One Dart 




22 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Tight-Fitting with Two Darts 



First lay up all points to your measure 
as described in Systematical Outline, then 
continue as follows: 

1 from Z is Vi inch. 

2 from Y is 2 '4 inches. 

Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 
through 2 as represented for the fashionable 
waist line. 

3 from C is 2 inches. 

4 from D is 1% inches. 

5 from 3 is 1 inch less than the distance 
from A to K. 

6 from 4 is % inch more than the distance 
from 3 to 5. 

Shape back part as represented. 

7 from 5 is % inch. 

8 from 6 is 1 inch. 

9 from F is % inch. 

10 from 1 is % inch. 

1 1 is located by drawing a line from 9 
through 10. 

12 is the half-way between H and 9. 

13 is the half-way between 7 and 10. 

14 is located by drawing a line from 12 
through 13. 

15 from 12 is 1 inch. 

16 from 13 is '/2 inch. 

17 from 13 is Va inch. 

18 from 14 is 1 inch. 

19 from 14 is 1 inch. 

20 from 1 1 is Vz inch. 

21 from P is Vz inch. 

22 from 21 is % inch for seam. 

23 from 15 is % inch for seam. 

Shape both side-gores as represented. 

24 from 10 is % inch, and is from 9 the 
same length as 9 to 10. 

25 from 1 1 is 1 '/2 inches. 

Shape lines 9-24-25 as represented. 



26 from 2 is 1% inches. 

27 is located by drawing a line from E 
through 26. 

28 from G is 314 inches. 

29 is located by drawing a line through 31 
parallel with line 1-2. 

30 is located by drawing a line from 29 
through 28. 

31 is the half-way between 29 and 30. 

32 is the half-way between 29 and 31. 

33 is located by drawing a line from 32 par- 
allel with line 29-26. 

34 from 33 is % inch. 

35 from 33 is % inch. 

36 from 32 is the same length as 34 from 
32. 

37 from 35 is 1 inch less than the distance 
from A to K. 

38 from 37 is 2 inches. 

39 from 31 is the same length as 37 from 
31. 

Draw a line from 24 to 39 for the run 
of the waist line. 

40 is located by drawing a line from 34 par- 
allel with line 26-27. 

41 from 40 is l'/4 inches. 

42 from 41 is '^ inch more than the dis- 
tance from 35 to 37. 

43 from 42 is 2'/2 inches. 

Shape the center of front; finish on the 
front the neck, shoulder, armhole and darts 
as represented. 

44 from 10 is the same length as 25 from 
24. 

45 from 43 is 1 '^ inches. 

43 from 37 is the same length as 45 from 

39. 
47 from 27 is % inch. 

Finish the bottom as represented. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



23 



X 



Tight-Fitting with Two Darts 




24 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Tight-Fitting Back and Semi-Fitting Front 



First lay up all points to your measure 
as described in Systematical Outline, then 
continue as follows: 

1 from Z is '/2 inch. 

2 from Y is 2'^ inches. 

Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 
through 2 as represented for the fashionable 
waist line. 

3 from C is 2 inches. 

4 from D is 1% inches. 

5 from 3 is 1 inch less than the distance 
from A to K. 

6 from 4 is % inch more than the distance 
from 3 to 5. 

Shape back part as represented. 

7 from 5 is % inch. 

8 from 6 is 1 inch. 

9 from F is % inch. 

10 from 1 is % inch. 

1 1 is located by drawing a line from 9 
through 10. 

12 is the half-way between H and 9. 

13 is the half-way between 7 and 10. 

14 is located by drawing a line from 12 
through 13. 

15 from 12 is 1 inch. 

16 from 13 is '/a inch. 

17 from 13 is '/2 inch. 

18 from 14 is 1 inch. 

19 from 14 is 1 inch. 

20 from 11 is Vi inch. 

21 from P is '/2 inch. 



22 from 21 is % inch for seam. 

23 from 15 is % inch for seam. 

Shape both side-gores as represented. 

24 from 10 is % inch, and is from 9 the 
same length as 9 to 10. 

25 from 11 is l'/2 inches. 

Shape lines 9-24-25 as represented. 

26 from 2 is 2 inches. 

Draw line from E through 26. 

27 from G is 3'^ inches. 

28 from 27 is 2 inches on line drawn par- 
allel with line 1-2. 

29 is located by drawing a line from 28 
parallel with line E~26. 

30 is located by drawing a line from 28 
through 29. 

31 from 29 is '/2 inch. 

32 from 30 is % inch. 

33 from 29 is 2'/2 inches. 

34 from 28 is the same length as 31 from 
28. 

Draw a line from 24 to 34 for the run 
of waist line. 

35 from 30 is 3'^ inches. 

Finish the front as represented. 

36 from 10 is the same length as 25 from 
24. 

37 from 35 is V/a inches. 

38 from 31 is the same length as 37 from 
34. 

Finish the bottom as represented. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



25 



Tight-Fitting Back and Semi-Fitting Front 




26 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Blouse 

First lay up all points to your measure as described in Systematical Outline, then 
continue as follows : 

1 from Z is '/2 inch. 

2 from Y is 2'/4 inches. 

Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 to 2 for the fashionable waist line as represented. 

3 from C is 2 inches. 

4 is the half-way between F and M. 

5 from 4 is % inch. 

6 from 1 is 4 inches 

Finish the back as represented. 

7 from 4 is % inch. 

8 is located by drawing a line from X through E, and is from E the same length as 
2 from E. 

Finish the front as represented. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



27 



Blouse 




28 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Basque or Tunic Skirt 

Measurers 

Waist 26 inches. Hips 42 inches. 

To Draft 

A. Draw a straight line as from A to 1. 
B from A is the half Waist measure, in this case 13 inches, 
C from B is 6 inches. 
D from A is 2 inches. 

E from D is 1 inch on line squared dawn from D. 
F is located by a line sweeped from B, pivoting at A. 

G is located by a line sweeped from C, pivoting at A, and is from C Vi inch more than the 
half Hips measure, in this case 2V/i inches. 

B-C is the front iine, and F--G is the back line. 

To Lengthen the Skirt 

1 is located by drawing a line from B through C to the length measure as desired. 

2 is located by drawing a line from F through G to the length measure as desired. 

3 is the center between B and F. 

4 from 1 is V/i inches less than the half distance between 1 and 2, and is from 3 the 
length as desired. 

5 is located by drawing a line from 3 to 4. 

6 from 5 is 1 inch. 

7 from 4 is the half difference between the width of bottom from 1 to 2 and the width 
of bottom as required. 

8 from 4 is the half difference between the width of bottom from 1 to 2 and the width 
of bottom as required. 

Cut out the space 6 -7--8--6 as represented, and join together 6-7 with 6-8 to get 
the Dart on the waist line as represented on the bottom draft 3--6--3. 



NOTICE: On this draft are seams not allowed. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



29 



Basque or Tunic Skirts 




30 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Tight- Fitting Eton with One Dart 

First lay up all points to measure as described in Systematical Outline, then con- 
tinue as follows: 

1 from Z is ^/i inch. 

2 from Y is 2'^ inches. 

Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 through 2 for the fashionable waist line as 
represented. 

3 from C is 2 inches. 

4 is the half-way between F and M. 

5 from 4 is % inch. 

6 from 1 is 4 inches. 

Finish the back as represented. 

7 from 4 is % inch. 

8 from 2 is 1% inches. 

Draw a line from E to 8. 

9 h-om G is 3'^ inches. 

10 from 9 is l'/2 inches on line drawn from 9 parallel with line 1-2. 

11 is located by drawing a line from 10 parallel with line E~8. 

12 from 11 is l'/4 inches. 

13 from 11 is 2% inches. 

14 from 10 is the same length as 12 from 10. 

Finish the Front as represented. 

If you wish to have a close back, take off ys inch seam at the back center from 
A to 3. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



31 



Tight- Fitting Eton with One Dart 




32 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Tight-Fitting Eton with Two Darts 



First lay up all points to your measure as described in Systematical Outline, then 
continue as follows: 

1 from Z is V2 inch. 

2 from Y is 2'^ inches. 

Draw lines from C to 1 and frcm 1 to 2 for the fashionable waist line as represented. 

3 from C is 2 inches. 

4 is the half way between F and M. 

5 from 4 is % inches. 

6 from 1 is 4 inches. 

Finish the back as represented. 

7 from 4 is % inch. 

8 from 2 is 1% inches. 

Draw a line from E to 8. 

9 from G is 3'^ inches. 

10 is located by drawing a line through 9 parallel with line 1--2. 

1 1 is located by drawing a line from 10 through 9. 

12 is the half way between 10 and 11. 

13 is the half-way between 10 and 12. 

14 is located by drawing a line from 13 parallel with line E--8. 



15 from 14 

16 from 14 

17 from 16 

18 from 17 

19 h-om 12 



s % inch. 

s % inch, and is from 13 the same length as 15 from 13. 

s 1 inch less than the distance between A and K. 

2 inches, 
s the same length as 17 from 12. 



Finish the front as represented. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



33 



Tight-Fitting Eton with Two Darts 




34 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Tight-Fitting Eton with One Side-Gore 



First lay up all points to your measure as described in Systematical Oudine, then 
continue as follows: 

1 from Z is Vi inch. 

2 from Y is 2'^ inches. 

Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 through 2 for the fashionable waist line 
as represented. 

3 from C is 2 inches. 

4 from P is % inch. 

5 from H is % inch. 

6 from 3 is the same as K from A. 

Finish the back part as represented. 

7 from 6 is % inch. 

8 from 4 is Vi inch. 

9 from 8 is % inch for seam. 

10 from F is V/i inches. 

1 1 from 1 is 2 '^ inches. 

Finish the side gore as represented. 

12 from 10 is % inch. 

13 from 1 is '/4 inch. 

14 from 2 is 1% inches. 

Draw a line from E to 14. 

15 from G is 3'^ inches. 

16 from 15 is Vh inches on line drawn parallel with line 1--2. 

17 is located by drawing a line from 16 parallel with line E-14. 

18 from 17 is I'A inches. 

19 from 17 is 2% inches. 

20 from 16 is the same length as 18 from 16. 

Finish the front as represented. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



35 



Tight-Fitting Eton with One Side-Gore 




36 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Tight-Fitting Eton with French Seam 

First lay up all points to your measure as described in Systematical Outline, then 
continue as follows: 

1 from Z is '/i inch. 

2 from Y is 2'/4 inches. 

Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 through 2 for the fashionabie waist line as 
represented. 

3 from C is 2 inches. 

4 from O is % inch. 

5 is the half-way between L and 4, or located accordingly style and taste. 

6 from 3 is the same as K from A. 

7 is located by drawing a line from 5 to 6 as represented. 

8 from 6 is % inch. 

9 from 5 is Ys inch and is V4 inch higher from the line L-0. 

10 from 4 is % inch and is V4 inch higher from line L--4. 

11 from P is % inch. 

12 from F is IVz inches. 

13 from 1 is ZVa inches. 

Finish the back part and the back side gore as represented. 

14 from 12 is % inch. 

15 from 1 is V4 inch. 
18 from 2 is 1% inches. 

Draw a line from E to 16. 

17 from G is 3'4 inches. 

18 from 17 is IV2 inches on line drawn parallel with line 1--2. 

19 is located by drawing a line from 18 parallel with line E--16. 

20 from 19 is l'/4 inches. 

21 from 19 is 2^^ inches. 

22 from 18 is the same length as 20 from 18. 

23 from R is the same length as L to 5. 

Draw a line from 23 to 18. 

24 from 23 is % inch. 

Draw a line from 24 parallel with line 23--18 as represented. 
Finish the front as represented. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



37 



Tight-Fitting Eton with French Seam 




38 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Tight-Fitting French Seam 



First lay up all points to your measure 
as described in Systematical Outline, then 
continue as follows: 

1 from Z is '72 inch. 

2 from Y is 2'^ inches. 

Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 
through 2 for the fashionable waist line as 
represented. 

3 from C is 2 inches. 

4 from D is 1% inches. 

5 from O is % inch. 

6 from P is % inch. 

Draw a line from 5 to 6. 

7 is the half-way between 5 and L, or make 
the width to style or taste. 

8 from 3 is 1 inch less than A to K. 

9 is located by drawing a line from 7 to 8 
as represented. 

10 from 4 is % inch more than 3 to 8. 

1 1 from 8 is % inch. 

12 from 10 is 1 inch. 

13 from F is % inch. 

14 from 1 is % inch. 

15 is located by drawing a line from 13 
through 14. 

16 is the half-way between 9 and 13. 

17 is the half-way between 11 and 14. 

18 is located by drawing a line from 16 
through 17. 

19 from 17 is '/) inch. 

20 from 17 is '/2 inch. 

21 from 18 is 1 inch. 

22 from 18 is 1 inch. 

23 from 15 is '/2 inch. 

24 from 7 is y% inch, and is !/4 inch higher 
from the line L-5. 



25 from 5 is y% inch, and is from 6 the 
same length as O from P. 

26 from 16 is 1 inch. 

27 from 26 is % inch for seam. 

Finish the back and side gores as rep- 
resented. 

28 from 14 is % inch, and is from 13 the 
same length as 14 from 13. 

29 from 15 is l'/2 inches. 

30 from 2 is 1 % inches. 

31 is located by drawing a line from E 
through 30. 

32 from 31 is % inch. 

33 from G is 3'/t inches. 

34 from 33 is 2 inches on line drawn from 
33 parallel with line 1-2. 

35 is located by drawing a line from 34 par- 
allel with line E-30. 

36 from 35 is 1 Vi inches. 

37 from 35 is 2% inches. 

38 from 34 is the same length as 36 from 
34. 

39 is located by drawing a line from 36 par- 
allel with line E -31. 

40 from 39 is 4% inches. 

41 from R is the same width as L to 7. 

Draw a line from 41 to 34. 

42 from 41 is 44 inch for seams. 

Draw a line from 42 parallel with line 
41-34. 

43 from 14 is the same length as 29 from 
28. 

44 from 40 is 1 '^ inches. 

45 from 36 is the same length as 44 from 
38. 

Finish the front as represented. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



39 



Tight-Fitting French Seam 




40 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Tight- Fitting Double French Seam 



First lay up all points to your measure 
as described in Systematical Outline, then 
continue as follows: 

1 from Z is '/2 inch. 

2 from Y is 2'^ inches. 

Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 
through 2 for the fashionable waist line as 
represented. 

3 from C is 2 inches. 

4 from D is 1% inches. 

5 from O is % inch. 

6 from P is % inch. 

Draw line from 5 to 6. 

7 from L is the half of distance from A 
to K. 

8 from 3 is the half of distance from A 
to K. 

9 is located by drawing a line from 7 to 8. 

10 from 4 is % inch more than the distance 
from 3 to 8. 

1 1 from 8 is '^ inch. 

12 from 10 is Vi inch. 

13 from 5 is '/2 inch more than L to 7. 

14 from 1 1 is '/2 inch more than 3 to 8. 

15 is located by drawing a line from 13 
to 14. 

16 from 12 is % inch more than 11 to 14. 

Finish the middle back part as repre- 
sented. 

17 from 14 is '/2 inch. 

18 from 16 is Vi inch. 

19 from F is % inch. 

20 from 1 is % inch. 

21 is located by drawing a line from 19 
through 20. 

22 is the half-way between 15 and 19. 

23 is the half-way between 17 and 20. 

24 is located by drawing a line from 22 
through 23. 

25 from 23 is '/2 inch. 

26 from 23 is '/2 inch. 

27 from 24 is 1 inch. 

28 from 24 is 1 inch. 

29 from 21 is '/2 inch. 

30 from 13 is % inch, and is '4 inch higher 
from line L-5. 

3 1 from 5 is % inch, and is from 6 the same 
length as O from P. 

32 from 22 is 1 inch. 

33 from 32 is % inch for seam. 

Finish the side gores as represented. 



34 from 20 is % inch, and is from 19 the 
same length as 20 from 19. 

35 from 21 is l'/2 inches. 

36 from 2 is 1% inches. 

37 is located by drawing a line from E 
through 36. 

38 from 37 is Ys inch. 

39 from G. is 3'/i inches. 

40 is located by drawing a line through 39 
parallel with line 1-2. 

41 is located by drawing a line from 40 
through 39. 

42 is the half-way between 40 and 41. 

43 is the half-way between 40 and 42. 

44 is located by drawing a line from 43 par- 
allel with line E~36. 

45 from 44 is Vs inch. 

46 from 44 is Vs inch, and is from 43 the 
same length as 45 from 43. 

47 is located by drawing a line from 45 par- 
allel with line E~37. 

48 from 47 is l'^ inches. 

49 from 46 is 1 inch less than the distance 
from A to K. 

50 from 48 is '^ inch more than the distance 
from 46 to 49. 

51 from 49 is 2 inches. 

52 from 42 is the same length as 49 from 
42. 

53 from 50 is 2'^ inches. 

54 from R is yg inch more than the distance 
from L to 7. 

Draw line from 54 to 43. 

55 from 54 is % inch for seams. 

Draw a line from 55 parallel with line 
54-43. 

56 from U is the same width as 30 to 31. 

57 from 56 is % inch for seams. 

Draw a line from 57 to 42. 
Draw a line from 56 parallel with line 
57-42. 

58 from 20 is the same length as 35 from 34. 

59 from 53 is 1 '^ inches. 

60 from 49 is the same length as 59 from 52. 

61 from 48 is the same length as 60 from 50. 

62 from 45 is the same length as 61 from 46. 

Finish the front as represented. 

By cutting out the pattern allow extra 
% inch for seams all way down at lines 
7--8--10, and 7--11--12. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



41 



Tight-Fitting Double French Seam 




42 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Tight- Fitting 18 Gores 



First lay up all points to your measure 
as described- in Systematical Outline, then 
continue as follows: 

1 from Z is '/i inch. 

2 from Y is 2'^ inches. 

Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 
through 2 for the fashionable waist line as 
represented. 

3 from C is 2 inches. 

4 from D is 1% inches. 

5 from O is % inch. 

6 from P is % inch. 

Draw a line from 5 to 6. 

7 from L is the half of distance from A 
to K. 

8 from 3 is the half of distance from A 
to K. 

9 is located by drawing a line from 7 to 8. 

10 from 4 is % inch more than the distance 
from 3 to 8. 

Finish the back part as represented. 

1 1 from 8 is Va inch. 

12 from 10 is V2 inch. 

13 from 5 is V2 inch more than L to 7. 

14 from 11 is the same width as 3 to 8. 

15 is located by drawing a line from 13 
to 14. 

16 from 12 is % inch more than 11 to 14. 

Finish the middle back part as repre- 
sented. 

17 from 14 is V2 inch. 

18 from 16 is Vz inch. 

19 from F is l'^ inches. 

20 from 1 is l'^ inches. 

21 is located by drawing a line from 19 
through 20. 

22 is one-third of 15-19. 

23 is the halfway between 15-22. 

24 is one-third of 17-20. 

25 is the half-way between 17-24. 

2G is located by drawing a line from 22 

through 24. 
27 is located by drawing a line from 23 
through 25. 

nch. 

nch. 

nch. 

nch. 

nch. 

nch. 

nch. 

nch. 

nch. 

nch. 
nch, and is V^ inch higher 
from line L-5. 

39 from 5 is % inch, and is from 6 the same 
length as O from P. 

40 from 23 is 1 inch. 

Finish the side gores as represented. 



28 from 25 is 

29 from 25 is 

30 from 24 is 

31 from 24 is 

32 from 20 is 

33 from 27 is 

34 from 27 is 

35 from 26 is 

36 from 26 is 

37 from 21 is 

38 from 13 is 



41 from 20 is '^ inch, and is from 19 the 
same length as 32 from 19. 

42 from 21 is 1 inch. 

43 from 2 is 1% inches. 

44 is located by drawing a line from E 
through 43. 

45 from 44 is % inch. 

46 from G is 3'^ inches. 

47 is located by drawing a line through 46 
parallel with line 1-2. 

48 is located by drawing a line from 47 
through 46. 

49 is the half-way between 47 and 48. 

50 is the half-way between 46 and 47. 

51 is the half-way between 48 and 49. 

52 is located by drawing a line from 50 par- 
allel with line E-43. 

53 from 52 is % inch. 

54 from 52 is % inch, and is from 50 the 
same length as 53 from 50. 

55 is located by drawing a line from 53 par- 
allel with line E~44. 

58 from 55 is I'/t inches. 

57 from 54 is 1 inch less than ihe distance 
from A to K. 

58 from 56 is '^ inch more than 57 from 54. 

59 from 57 is 1 V2 inches, and is from 49 
the same length as 57 from 49. 

60 from 58 is 1% inches. 

61 is the half-way between 41 and 59. 

62 is located by drawing a line from 51 
through 61. 

63 from 61 is '^ inch. 

64 from 61 is '^ inch. 
G5 from 62 is V4 inch. 

66 from R is % inch more than the distance 
from L to 7. 

Draw a line from 66 to 50. 

67 from 66 is % inch for seams. 

Draw a line from 67 parallel with line 
66-50. 

68 from U is the same width as 38 to 39. 

69 from 68 is % inch for seams. 

Draw a line from 69 to 49. 
Draw a line from 68 parallel with line 
69-49 

70 is the half-way between S and V. 

71 from 32 is the same length as 42 from 41. 

72 from 6 1 is 1 V4 inches. 

73 from 57 is the same length as 72 from 59. 

Finish the front as represented. 
By cutting out the pattern allow extra 
for seams all way down as follows: 

Ysinchat Hne7 9 8-10. 

ys inch at line 7-9-11-12. 

Vs inch at line 70-51-63-65. 

% inch at line 70-51 64-62. 

V4 inch at line 19 32-71. 

'^ inch at line 22-31-35. 

'/4 inch at line 40-23-29-32. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



43 



Tight- Fitting 18 Gores 




44 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Tight-Fitting 22 Gores 



First lay up all points to your measure 
as described in Systematical Outline, then 
continue as follows: 



rep: 
3 
4 
5 
6 



9 
10 
11 

12 
13 
14 
15 
16 
17 

18 
19 
20 
21 

22 
23 
24 
25 
26 
27 

28 

29 
30 
31 
32 

33 



34 
35 
36 
37 
38 
39 
40 
41 
42 
43 
44 



45 

46 

47 
48 
49 
50 



rom Z is '/2 inch, 
rom Y is 2V^ inches. 
Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 
through 2 for the fashionable waist line as 
esented. 

rom C is 2 inches, 
rom D is 1% inches, 
rom O is % inch, 
rom P is % inch. 
Draw a line from 5 to 6. 
rom O is 2 inches. 

rom L is one-third of distance from L 
o 7. 

rom 3 is lYs inch less than K from A. 
rom 4 is % inch more than 3 to 9. 
s located by drawing a line from 8 to 9. 
Finish the back part as represented, 
rom 9 is V4 inch, 
rom 10 is Ys inch. 
s the half-way between 7 and 8. 
rom 12 is % inch less than 3 to 9. 
rom 13 is % inch more than 15 from 12. 
s located by drawing a line from 14 
o 15. 

rom 15 is I/4 inch, 
rom 16 is Vs inch, 
rom 18 is ihe same as 3 to 9. 
rom from 19 is % inch more than 18 
o 20. 

s located by drawing a line from 7 to 20. 
rom 20 is '^ inch, 
rom 21 is V2 inch, 
rom F is 1 '^ inches, 
rom 1 is 1 '^ inches. 
s located by drawing a line from 25 
hrough 26. 

rom 25 is one-third of distance from 
25 to 22. 

s the half-way between 22 and 28. 
s one-third of distance from 26 to 23. 
s the half-way between 30 and 23. 
s located by drawing a line from 28 
hrough 30. 

s located by drawing a line from 29 
hrough 31. 

Ys inch. 

Hi inch. 

'/4 inch. 

Va inch. 

V4 inch. 

Vs inch. 

Vz inch. 

Ys inch. 

Vz inch. 

Va inch. 



rom 31 is 
rom 31 is 
rom 30 is 
rom 30 is 
rom 26 is 
rom 33 is 
rom 33 is 
rom 32 is 
rom 32 is 
rom 27 is 
rom 7 is ^/ 
ban line L- 



inch, and is Va inch higher 



O. 



rom 5 is % inch, and is the same length 

rom 6 as O from P. 

rom 29 is 1 inch. 

Finish the side gores as represented. 

rom 26 is Va inch. 

rom 27 is 1 inch. 

rom 2 is 1% inches. 

s located by drawing a line from E 

hrough 49. 



51 from 50 is Ys inch. 

52 from G is 3Va inches. 

53 is located by drawing a line through 

52 parallel with line 1-2. 

54 is located by drawing a line from 53 
through 52. 

55 from 53 is one-fifth of the distance from 
23 to 54. 

5S from 55 is one-fifth of the distance from 

53 to 54. 

57 from 56 is one-fifth of the distance from 
53 to 54. 

58 from 57 is one-fifth of the distance from 
53 to 54. 

59 is located by drawing a lime from 55 
parallel with line E-49. 

60 from 59 is Vz inch. 

61 from 59 is Vz inch. 

62 from 61 is IVa inches less than K from A. 

63 from 62 is 1 inch. 

64 from 63 is the same as 62 from 61. 

65 from 64 is Ya inch. 

6G is the half-way between 65 and 47. 

67 is located by drawing a line from 58 
through 66. 

68 from 66 is Va inch. 

69 from 66 is Va inch. 

70 is located by drawing a line from 60 
parallel with line E-50. 

71 from 70 is 1 inch. 

72 from 71 is Va inch more than 62 from 61. 

73 from 72 is I'/s inches. 

74 from 73 is Va inch more than 64 from 63. 

75 from 74 is % inch. 
73 from 67 is Va inch. 

77 from R is Ys inch more than 8 from L. 

Draw a line from 77 to 55. 

78 from 77 is % inch for seams. 

Draw a line from 78 parallel with line 
77-55. 

79 from 78 is % inch more than 14 from 8. 

Draw a line from 79 to 56. 

80 from 79 is Ya inch for seams. 

Draw a line from 80 parallel with line 
79-56. 

81 from U is the same as 45 from 44. 

82 from 81 is % inch for seams. 

Draw a line from 82 to 57. 
Draw a line from 81 parallel with line 
82-57. 

83 is the half-way between S and V. 

84 from 38 is the same length as 48 from 47. 

85 from 75 is 1 Va inches. 

8G from 64 is the same length as 85 from 65. 
Finish the front and bottom as repre- 
sented. 

By cutting out the pattern allow extra 
for seams all way down as follows : 
% inch at line 8 9 10. 
inch at line 8-12-13. 
inch al line 14-15 16. 
inch at line 14-18-19. 
inch at line 46-35 39. 
inch at line 28-37-41. 
inch at line 25 38 84. 
inch at Hne 83-69-67. 
inch at Hne 83-68-76. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



45 



Tight-Fitting 22 Gores 




42 21 16 10 



46 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Semi-Fitting Back and Loose Front 



First lay up all points to your measure as described in Systematical Ootline, then 
continue as follows: 

1 from Z is '/i inch. 

2 from Y is 2'^ inches. 

Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 through 2 for the fashionabie waist line as 
represented. 

3 from C is l'/2 inches. 

4 from 3 is a !/4 inch. 

5 from D is 1 inch. 

6 from P is % inch. 

7 from H is % inch. 

8 from 4 is 1 inch more than the distance from A to K. 

9 from 5 is % inch more than the distance from 4 to 8. 

Finish the back as represented. 

10 from 8 is '/2 inch. 

1 1 from 9 is 1 '/2 inches. 

12 from 6 is '/2 inch. 

13 from F is % inch. 

14 from 1 is % inch. 

15 is located by drawing a line from 13 through 14. 

16 from 14 is '/2 inch. 

17 from 1 is '/2 inch, and is from F the same length as 16 from 13. 

18 from 15 is '/2 inch. 

19 from 15 is 1 inch, and is from 17 the same length as 18 from 16. 

20 is located by line squared out from E. 

21 from 2 is '/2 inch. 

Draw line from E through 21. 

Finish the front and side gore as represented. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



47 



Semi- Fitting Back and Loose Front 




48 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Semi-Fitting with Dart in Front 

First lay up all points to your measure as described in Systematical Ootline, then 
continue as follows: 

1 from Z is '/2 inch. 

2 from Y is 2'^ inches. 

Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 through 2 for the fashionable waist line as 
represented. 

3 from C is l'/2 inches. 

4 from 3 is a '^ inch. 

5 from D is 1 inch. 

6 from P is % inch. 

7 from H is % inch. 

8 from 4 is 1 inch more than the distance from A to K. 

9 from 5 is % inch more than the distance from 4 to 8. 

Finish the back as represented. 

10 from 8 is '/2 inch. 

1 1 from 9 is 1 '/2 inches. 

12 from 6 is '72 inch. 

13 from F is % inch. 

14 from 1 is % inch. 

15 is located by drawing a line from 13 through 14. 
IG from 14 is '/2 inch. 

Finish the side gore as represented. 

17 from 1 is '/2 inch, and is from F the same length as 16 from 13. 

18 from 15 is 1 inch. 

19 from 2 is 2 inches. 

Draw line from E through 19. 

20 from G is 3 Va inches. 

21 from 20 is l'/2 inches on line drawn parallel with line E-19. 

22 is located by drawing a line from 21 parallel with line E--19. 

23 is located by drawing a line from 21 parallel with line E--19. 

24 from 22 is Vz inch. 

25 from 24 is 3 inches. 

26 from 21 is the same lenghth as 24 from 21. 

27 from 23 is % inch. 

28 from 27 is 3% inches. 

Finish the front as represented. 

29 from 16 is the same length as 18 from 17. 

30 from 28 is l'^ inches. 

31 from 24 is the same length as 30 from 26. 

Finish the bottom as represented. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



49 



Semi-Fitting with Dart in Front 




50 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Semi-Fitting French Seam 



First lay up all points to your measure 
as described in Systematical Outline, then 
continue as follows: 

1 from Z is '/2 inch. 

2 from Y is 2'^ inches. 

Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 
through 2 for the fashionable waist line 
as represented. 

3 from C is l'/2 inches. 

4 from 3 is V4 inch. 

5 from D is 1 inch. 
G from O is % inch. 

7 from P is % inch. 
Draw a line from 6 to 7. 

8 is the half-way between 6 and 4, or make 
the width to style or taste. 

9 from 4 is 1 inch more than the distance 
from A to K. 

10 from 5 is % inch more tham the distance 
from 4 to 9. 

1 1 is located by drawing a line from 8 to 9 
as represented. 

Finish the back as represented. 

12 from 9 is V2 inch. 

13 from 10 is l'/2 inch. 

14 from F is % inch. 

15 from 1 is % inch. 

16 is located by drawing a line from 14 
through 15. 

1 7 from 1 5 is V2 inch. 

18 from 8 is Vs inch. 

19 from 6 is % inch. 



20 from 18 is '^ inch. 

21 from 7 is the same length as O from P. 

Finish the side gore as represented. 

22 from 1 is Vz inch. 

23 from 16 is 1 inch. 

24 from 2 is 2 inches. 

25 from G is 3'/4 inches. 

26 from 25 is IV2 inches on line drawn from 
25 parallel with line 1—2 

27 is localed by drawing a line from 26 
parallel with line E- -24. 

28 is located by drawing a line from 26 
through 27. 

29 from 27 is V2 inch. 

30 from 28 is Vs inch. 

3 1 from 29 is 3 inches. 

32 from 26 is the same length as 29 from 
26. 

33 from 30 is 3% inches. 

34 from R is the same width as L to 8. 

Draw a line from 34 to 26. 

35 from 34 is % inch for seams. 

Draw a line from 35 parallel with line 
34-26. 

36 from 16 is V4 inch. 

37 from 22 is the same length as 36 from 
17. 

38 from 33 is 114 inches. 

39 from 29 is the same length as 38 from 
32. 

Finish the front and bottom as repre- 
sented. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



51 



Semi-Fitting French Seam 




52 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Semi-Fitting Hipless Effect 



First lay up all points to your measure 
as described in Systematical Outline, then 
continue as follows: 

1 from Z is V2 inch. 

2 from Y is 2'^ inches. 

Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 
through 2 for the fashionable waist line 
as represented. 

3 from C is 3 inches. 

4 from 1 is 3 inches. 

5 from 2 is 3 inches. 

Draw lines from 3 to 4 and from 4 to 5 
as represented. 

6 from 3 is l'^ inches. 

7 from D is 1 inch. 

8 from P is V4 inch. 

9 from H is % inch. 

10 from 6 is l'^ inch more than K from A. 

11 from 7 is % inch more than 10 from 6. 

Finish the back as represented. 

12 from 10 is '^ inch. 

13 from 11 is I'/i inches. 

14 from F is % inch. 

15 from 4 is % inch. 

16 is located by drawing a line from 14 
through 15. 

17 from 15 V4 inch. 

Finish the back-side gore as represented. 

18 from 4 is '^ inch. 

19 from 16 is 1 inch. 



20 from 2 is 2 inches. 

21 from G is 3V4 inches. 

22 from 21 is I'/a inches on line drawn from 
21 paralled with line 18-5. 

23 is located by drawing a line from 22 
paralled with line E -20. 

24 is located by drawing a line from 22 
through 23. 

25 from 23 is '/i inch. 

26 from 23 is Ya inch, and is from 22 the 
same lenght as 25 from 22. 

27 is located by drawing a square line up 
from the hip line to 26. 

28 from V is % inch. 

Finish the front as represented. 

29 from A is the length of garment as 
desired. 

30 is located by a line squared out from 29. 

31 is located by a line squared out from 29. 

32 is located by a line squared out from 29. 

33 from 12 is the same length as 30 from 10. 

34 from 17 is the same length as 35 from 18. 

35 is located by a line squared out from 29. 

36 from 32 is 1 '^ inches. 

37 is located by drawing a line from 25 
through 24, and is from 25 the same 
length as 36 from 26. 

38 from R is 1 inch. 

Allow for button stand 2 inches for single 
breasted and 3 inches for double breasted. 

Finish the bottom as represented. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



53 



Semi-Fitting Hipless Effect 




54 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER A ND CUTTER 

Semi-Fitting Coat with Underarm Gore. 

First lay up all points to your measure as described in Systematical Outline, then 
continue as follows: 

1 from Z is '/2 inch. 

2 from Y is 2'^ inches. 

Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 to 2 for the fashionable waist line as represented. 

3 from C is 1 '/2 inches. 

4 from 3 is '^ inch. 

5 from D is 1 inch. 

6 from M is % inch. 

7 from 6 is % inch. 

8 from 4 is 3 inches more than K from A. 

9 is located by drawing a curved line from 7 to 8 as represented. 

10 from 5 is % inch more than 8 from 4. 

Finish the back as represented. 

1 1 from 7 is 1 Vi inches. 

1 2 from 9 is 1 '/2 inches. 

13 from 8 is 2 inches 

14 from 10 is 1% inches. 

15 is located by drawing a shapad line from 11 to 14 as represented. 

16 from 2 is 2 inches. 

Draw a line from E through 16 for the run of front center. 

17 from G is 3'/4 inches 

18 from 17 is '/i inch. 

19 is locaied by drawing a line from 18 parallel with line E -16. 

20 is located by drawing a line from 18 through 19. 

21 from 19 is Vi inch. 

22 from 21 is 3 inches. 

23 from 18 is the same length as 21 from 18. 

24 from 20 is % inch. 

25 from 24 is 3% inches. 
28 from V is % inch. 

27 from 26 is % inch. 

28 from A is the length of garment as desired. 

29 is located on line squared out from 28. 

30 from 15 is the same length as 29 from 8. 

3 1 is located on line squared out from 28. 

32 from 31 is l'^ inches. 

33 from 21 is the same length as 32 from 23. 
Finish the front and underarm gore as represented. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



55 



Semi-Fitting Coat with Underarm Gore. 




56 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Sac Coat with Loose Front 

First lay up all points to your measure as described in Systematical Outline, then 
continue as follows: 

1 from Z is '72 inch. 

2 from Y is 2'/4 inches. 

Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 to 2 for the fashionable waist line as represented. 

3 from C is 1*72 inches. 

4 from 3 is '^ inch. 

5 from D is 1 inch. 

6 from M is % inch. 

7 from 6 is % inch. 

8 from 4 is 3 inches more than K from A. 

9 is located by drawing a curved line from 7 to 8 as represented. 

10 from 5 is % inch more than 8 from 4. 

Finish the back as represented. 

1 1 from 8 is '/2 inch. 

12 from 10 1% inches. 

13 from F is ^h inch. 

14 from 1 is Vj inch. 

15 from 14 is 2'/2 inches and is located by drawing a line from 13 through 14. 

16 from 14 is Ys inch. 

17 from 14 is ye inch. 

18 from 2 is '/2 inch. 

19 from A is the length of garment as desired. 

20 is located on line squared out from 19. 

21 is located by drawing a line from E through 18. 

22 from 1 1 is the same length as 20 from 8. 

23 from R is 1 inch. 

24 is located by a line squared down from S and is 2^2 inches below the fashionable waist line. 

25 from 24 is '/2 inch. 

26 is located by drawing a line from 25 through 15 and is the half of the pocket size, in this 
case 3 inches. 

27 is located by drawing a line from 26 through 25 and is the full pocket size, in this case 
6 inches. 

28 from S is 1 inch. 

29 from G is y2 inch. 

30 is located by drawing a line from 28 through 29, and is in this case 5 inches long. 

Finish the draft as represented. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



57 



Sac Coat with Loose Front 




58 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Sac Coat with Shaped Front 

First lay up all points to your measure as described in Systematical Outline, then 
continue as follows: 

1 from Z is '/2 inch. 

2 from Y is 2'^ inches. 

Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 to 2 for the fashionable waist line as represented. 

3 from C is 1 '/i inches. 

4 from 3 is '^ inch. 

5 from D is 1 inch. 

6 from M is % inch. 

7 from 6 is % inch. 

8 from 4 is 3 inches more than K from A. 

9 is located by drawing a curved line from 7 to 8 as represented. 

10 from 5 is % inch more than 8 from 4. 

Finish the back as represented. 

1 1 from 8 is '/2 inches. 

12 from 10 is 1% inches. 

13 from F is '/2 inches. 

14 from 1 is '/2 inch. 

15 from 14 is 2 '/a inches and is located by drawing a line from 13 through 14. 

16 from 14 is '/2 inch. 

17 from 14 is '/2 inch. 

18 from 2 is 2 inches. 

19 from G is 3'^ inches. 

20 from 19 is l'/2 inches on line drawn from 19 parallel with line 1—2- 

21 is located by drawing a line from 20 parallel with line E— 18. 

22 is located by drawing a line from 20 through 21. 

23 from 21 is '/2 inch. 

24 from 22 is % inch. 

25 from 23 is 3 inches and is from 20 the same length as 23 from 20. 

26 from 24 is 3% inches 

27 from A is the length of garment as denired. 

28 is located on line squared out from 27. 

29 is located on line squared out from 27. 

30 from 1 1 is the same length as 28 from 8. 

31 from 29 is 1 '^ inches. 

32 from 23 is the same length as 31 from 25. 

33 from R is 3^^ inches. 

34 from 33 is % inch for seams. 

Finish the draft as represented. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 59 



Sac Coat with Shaped Front 



60 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



How to make Shoulder Dart 



To make a shoulder dart we must have first a french seam front. 
Put the two parts together so that they should lap over % inch from A to C 
and B to D as represented. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



61 



How to make Shoulder-Dart 




62 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Loose Box Coat 

First lay up all points to your measure as described in Systematical Outline, then 
continue as follows: 

1 from Z is '/2 inch. 

2 from Y is 2'^ inches. 

Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 through 2 as represented. 

3 is the half-way between F and M. 

4 from 3 is % inch. 

5 from 3 is % inch. 

6 from 1 is V4 inch more than 5 from F. 

7 from 6 is l'^ inches. 

8 from C is % inch. 

9 from A is % inch. 

10 from L is '^ inch. 

11 from R is % inch. " 

12 from 2 is V2 inch. 

Draw a line from E through 12. 

13 from A is the length of garment as desired. 

14 is located by a line squared out from 13. 

15 from 14 is Vz inch. 

16 from 4 is the same length as 15 from 5. 

17 is located by a line squared out from 13. 

1 8 from 1 7 is 1 V4 inches. 

19 from 11 is 1 inch. 

Allow for button stand 3 inches for single breasted, 4 inches for double breasted. 
Finish the draft as represented. 

If you wish to have the back center without seam, take off % inch seam at the back 
center. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



63 



Loose Box Coat 




64 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Loose Box Coat with Front-Shoulder Dart 

First lay up all points to your measure as described in Systematical Outline, then 
continue as follows: 

1 fom Z is 1/2 inch. 

2 from Y is 2'^ inches. 

Draw Lines from C to 1 and from 1 through 2 as represented. 

3 is the half-way betveen F, and M. 

4 from 3 is % inch. 

5 from 3 is % inch. 

6 from 1 is '^ inch more than 5 from F. 

7 from 6 is 1 V4 inches. 

8 from C is % inch. 

9 from A is % inch. 

10 from L is V4 inch. 

1 1 from R is % inch. 

12 from 2 is 2 inches. 

Draw a line from E through 12 as represented. 

13 from G is 314 inches. 

14 from 13 is iy2 inches on line drawn from 13 parallel with line 1-2. 

15 is located by a line drawn from 14 parallel with line E-12. 

16 is located by a line drawn from 14 parallel with line E-12. 

17 from 16 is V2 inch. 

18 from 17 is 3 inches. 

19 from 14 is the same length as 17 from 14. 

20 from 15 is % inch. 

21 from 20 is 3% inches. 

22 from A is the full length as desssired. 

23 is located by a line squared up from 22, 

24 is located by a line sqoared up from 22. 

25 is located by a line squared up from 22. 

26 from 24 is V2 inch. 

27 from 4 is the same length as 26 from 5. 

28 from 25 is l'/4 inches. 

29 from 17 is the same length as 28 from 19. 

30 from R is inch. 

Allow for button stand 3 inches for single breasted, 4 inches for double breasted. 

Finish the draft as represented. 

If you wish to have the back centre without seam, take off '„ inch seam at te back centre 

To get the front-shoulder dart make the front with french-seam as follows: 

31 from 11 is 3% inches. 

Draw a line from 31 to 14. 

32 from 31 is % inch for seams. 

Draw a line from 32 parallel with line 31-14 as represented. 

To get the shoulder dart bring the front parts together as described an illustrated on 
pages 60 and 61. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



65 



Loose Box Coat with Front-Shoulder Dart 




66 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Coat Sleeve 



1 Draw a straight line as from 1 to 2. 

2 from I is the Sleeve length measure (inside seam). 

Square a line up from 2. 

3 from 1 is a quarter of the full bust measure plus 1 inch on a line squared up from 

4 is located by a line squared out from 3 as represented. 

5 is the center of 1-2. 

6 is located by a line squared up from 5. 

7 is the center of 2-4. 

8 is the center of 1-3. 

Square out a line from 8 as represented. 

9 from 9 is 2 inches. 

10 from 8 is the same length as 8 from 1 . 

1 1 from I is 2 inches. 

Draw lines between 1 i - 1 and from I through 3. 

12 is the center of 10-11. 

13 is the center of 3-10. 

14 from 12 is '4 inch. 

15 from 1 3 is 1 '2 inches. 

16 from 3 is j-o inch. 

17 from 3 is '2 inch. 

18 from 6 is 2 inches. 

19 from 5 is 3 inches. 

20 from 7 is 2 incses. 

Draw a line from 4 through 20. 

21 from 20 is 1 inch. 

22 from 20 is 1 inch. 

23 from 4 is ' J inch. 

24 from 21 is l<2 inch. 

Draw all construction lines as represented. 

Shape the top sleeve as represented by lines between I 1-10-1 7-18-4-22-5-1 I. 

Shape the under sleeve as represented by lines between 9-16-18-23-24-19-9. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



67 



Coat Sleeve 






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It 




8 
18 


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V 




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68 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Sleeve with fulness on top 



To make the sleeve with more fulness on the head, proceed as follows : 
Mark the top-sleeve as shown by A-B-C-D-E. 

The shape of the sleeve remains always the same between A-B-C-D and ful- 
ness is allowed only at points E, F, G, H as desired. 
Finish the top-sleeve as represented. 
The under-sleeve is not to be changed ; it remains always the same. 



One Piece Sleeve 

with fulness on the top and Cuff 

To malce one piece sleeve place the top and under sleeves together at the 
back seam so, that they should overlap '4 inch for figuring the seams off, and finish 
the sleeve as represented. 

The cuff is represented by heavy, broken lines. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Sleeve with fulness on top 



69 




One Piece Sleeve 

with fulness on the lop and Cuff 




70 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



One Piece Sleeve 

with fulness on the bottom 

Bishop Sleeve 



Place the fop- and under sleeve together at the back seam so, that they should overlap 
% inch for figuring the seams off, and finish as represented by the upper diagram. 

The lower diagram shows how to make this sleeve by direct drafting as follows: 
1. Square bot-ways from 1 as represented. 

2 from 1 is the sleeve length measure (inseam). 

3 from 1 is one-quarter of the full Bust measure plus ' 4 inch. 

4 is the center between 1 and 2. 

5 is the same as 1-3 on Hne squared out from 4. 

6 is the center between 1-3. 

7 from 2 is the same as 6 from I . 

8 from 7 is 2 inches on line squared out from 7. 

9 from 6 is the same as 6 from 1 on line squared out from 6. 

10 from 3 is 2 inches. 

Connect 1-9-10 by lines. 

1 1 is the center between 1 and 9. 

12 is the center between 9 and 10. 

13 from 11 is 1 '4 inches. 

14 from 12 is '4 mch. 

15 from 4 is 2 inches. 

16 from 5 is 3 inches. 

17 from 8 is 1 inch. 

18 from 8 is 1 inch. 

19 from 6 is 2 inches. 

Connect points as represented. 

Shape the sleeve at the top and front seam as represented. 

20 is the center between 5 and I 6. 

21 is the center between 3 and 6. 

22 is located by drawing a line from 20 through 21. 

23 is located by drawing a line from 22 through 20. 

Fold the paper at the line 22-20-23 and trace over the under sleeve as represented 
bv the heavy, broken hne between points 8-20-2 1 -22- 19- 1 , and finish the sleeve as represented 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



71 



One Piece Sleeve 

with fulness on the bottom 

Bishop Sleeve 




72 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



One Piece Tight Sleeve 



First make a Bishop Sleeve as described on page 70 and then continue as follows ; 
A-B. Draw a straight line from A to B. 
C is the. center between A and B. 

D from C is the sleeve length measure (inseam) on line squared down from C. 
E from D is the half wrist measure plus 'x inch for a seam on line squared out from D. 
F from D is the same as E from D on line drawn from E through D. 

Finish the sleeve as represented. 



One Piece Tight Sleeve 

with seam at the middle of the under arm 



First make One Piece Tight Sleeve as described above and then continue as follows 
A-B-C-D is the original sleeve. 
E-F is about the middle of the under-sleeve. 

Cut through the sleeve at E-F and place the piece B-C-E-F on the other side of the sleeve 
so, that B-C should be placed to A-D accordingly the notches, and mark over the new sleeve 
ar represented. 

By using this kind of a sleeve be careful that the side seam of the garment should 
correspond with the seam of the sleeve. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



73 



One Piece Tight Sleeve 




C E 



One Piece Tight Sleeve 

with seam at the middle of the under arm 




74 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Collars and Lapels 

Allow for button stand at the center of front for single breasted 1 to 2 inches, for double 
breasted 3 to 4 inches. 

Showl Collar 

Diagram 1 

1 is the shoulder point. 

2 from 1 is I inch. 

3 is the end of the break of lapel. 

4 from 2 is }4 inch more than the width of the back neck on line drawn from 3 through 2. 

Square up and down from 4. 

5 from 4 is 1 '4 inches. 

6 from 2 is 1 J4 inches. 

7 from 4 is the width of the collar desired. 

Allow about ' 4 inch for spring at point 7. 
Shape the collar and lapel as represented. 

Single Breasted Lapel and Notch Collar 

Diagram 2 

From 1 to 7 are the same points as described by the Showl Col ar (Diagram 1), then 
finish the lapel and collar as indicated. 

Double Breasted Lapel and Notch Collar 

Diagram 3 

From 1 to 7 are the same points as described by the Showl Collar (Diagram 1 ), then 
finish the lapel and collar as indicated. 

Two Piece Collar 

Diagram 4 

First mark the front and back, then continue as follows: 

1 is the shoulder point. 

2 from 1 is 1 !/4 inches. 

3 is the end of the break of lapel. 

4 from 2 is the width of the collar desired. 

5 from 2 is 1 '4 inches. 

6 is located by drawing a line from 2 to 3. 

Shape the collar and lapel as indicated by points 2-3-4. 

Finish the front collar as represented. 

Trace over the lapel by breaking the paper on the crease line 2-3, and finish the lapel 
as represented. 
7-8 is the back neck. 

9 from 7 is 2' 2 inches. 

10 from 9 is the same width as 8 from 7 on the line squared out from 9. 

1 1 from 1 is the same length as 4 from 5 on the front and is locr.ted inside from the back 
shoulder so much as point 4 is outside from the front shoulder. 

Finish the back collar as represented. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



75 



Collars and Lapels 




76 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Collars 



Ulster Collar 

Diagram A 

1-2. Draw a line from 1 through 2 to 3. 

3 from 2 is '4 inch more than the width of 
the back neck. 

4 from 3 is 1 '4 inches on hne squared down 
from 3. 

5 from 1 is 1 '4 inches on line squared down 
from 1 . 

Draw a straight Hne from 5 to 4. 
Draw a Hne for the collar stand from 5 
through 2 to 3. 

6 from 3 is the collar width as desired on line 
squared out from 3. 

7 from 6 is '4 inch for spring. 

Shape the collar as indicated. 

Standing or Military Collar 

Diagram B 

1-2. Draw a Hne from 1 through 2 to 3. 

3 from 2 is '4 inch more than the width of 
the back neck. 

Square up and down from 3. 

4 from 3 is I inch. 

5 from 3 is 1 inch. 

6 from 1 is 1 '4 inches. 

Shape the collar as representend. 

Standing Rolling Ulster Collar 

Diagram C 

1-2. Draw a line from 1 through 2 to 3. 

3 from 2 is '4 inch more than the width of 
the back neck. 

4 from 3 is 1 '4 inches on line squared down 
from 3. 

5 from 1 is 1 '4 inches. 

Shape the collar stand from 5 through 
2 to 3. 

6 from 4 is the width of collar desired on line 
squared down from 4. 

7 from 6 is '4 inch for spring. 

Shape the collar as indicated. 

The stand at 5-2-3 is to be stretched. 

Standing Rolling Miltary Collar 

Diagram D 

1-2. Draw a line from 1 through 2 to 3. 

3 from 2 is '4 inch more than the width of 
the back neck. 

Square up and down from 3. 

4 from 3 is I inch. 

5 from 3 is 1 inch. 

6 from 1 is 1 '4 inches. 

7 from 3 is the width of the roll collar as 
desired. 

8 from 7 is ' J inch for spring. 



9 from 6 is the width as desired. 

Finish the collar as represented. 
The outer leaf of the collar line 9-7-8 
must be slightly stretched. 

Roll and Button High Collor 

Diagram E 

1 is the shoulder point. 

2 from 1 is I '4 inches. 

3 is the end of the break of lapel. 

4 is located by drawing a line from 3 to 2. 

Draw a a line from 4 through 1 to 5. 

5 from 1 is '4 inch more than the width of 
the back neck. 

6 from 5 is i '4 inches on line squared down 
from 5. 

7 from 5 is the width of the collar desired on 
line squared up from 5. 

8 from 7 is ' o inch for spring. 

Finish the collar as represented. 

Standing Lay Down Collor 
from two pieces 

Diagram F 

1-2-3-4 is the standing collar, which was prod- 
uced accordingly Diagram B. 

5 from 1 is 1 '4 inches, and is the same length 
from 2 as 1 from 2. 

6 from 2 is the width of the collar deyired on 
line draw from 2 through 3. 

7 from 6 is ' 2 inch for spring. 

Finish the collar as represented. 

Storm Collar 

Diagram G 

For producing this collar take a standing 
collar and cut it in three pieces. 
1-2 is the bottom of the standing collar. 
3-4 is the top of the standing collar. 
5-6 are located by dividing the bottom of 

three part, 
7-8 are produced by dividing the top line of 
the collar of three parts. 

Depart the pieces at points 7 and 8 so 
far as much fullness you desire and finish 
the collar as represented. 

Allow for seams betw^een the pieces. 

Flat Collor 

Diagram H 

For producing this collar put to gether 
the front and back at the shoulder so, that 
they should overlap '4 inch for taking the 
seams off, and mark the collar to the shape 
desired. 



78 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Circular Cape 

Diagram 1. 



A Draw a line from A through B. 

B from A is the Back waist-length measure. 

C from B is by applying a tight-fitting back 
pattern 2 inches, by a semi fitting back 
pattern 1 ' j inches, and by a loose box 
coat back pattern draw line A-B on the 



back center line of te pattern. 
D is located by placing the back and front 
together at the shoulder so, that figuring 
the seams off they should overlap; '4 inch, 
and finish the circular cape as rep- 
resented. 



Cape with One Shoulder Dart 



Diagram 2. 



To produce a cape with one shoulder 
dart continue on the circular cape (Diagr. 1) 
as follows: 

E is the center between A and D. 
F is located by a line squared out from E. 
G is located by a line drawn from E through F- 
H from F is the length of shoulder. 
I from G is the half amount of fulness, which 
we want to take out for producing a shoul- 



der dart. 
J from G is the same as I from G. 

Open the shoulder seam F-H. 

Take out fulness H-l-J-H. 

Join together lines H-i with H-J, and it 
will form a shoulder dart F-H-F as represented 
on Diagram 2. 

Allow^ for seams at the shoulder dart, and 
finish as represented. 



Cape with Two Shoulder Darts 



Diagram 3. 



To Produce a cape with two shoulder 
darts continue on the circular cape (Diagr- I) 
as follows : 
K from F is ' 2 inch. 
L from G is ' 2 inch. 
M from K is the shoulder length on line drown 

from K to L. 
N from K is 1 ^2 inches. 
O from M is 3 inches and from N is the 

shoulder length. 
P is located by drawing a line from M through 



O. 
Q frpm L is to be taken out fulness as desired. 
R from L is to be taken out fulness as desired. 
S from P the same as Q from L. 
T from P is the same as R from L. 

Open the shoulder seams from K to M 
and from N to O. 

Take out fulness R-M-Q and S-O-T. 

Join together lines R-M with Q-M, also S-O 
with T-O to forni the two shoulder darts. 

Allow for seams at the darts, and finish 
as represented. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



79 



Capes 




80 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Yoke 



To produce a yoke lay the back and front together at the shoulder so, that 
they should overlap '4 inch for figuring the seams off, and finish the yoke as 
represented. 



Hood 



The hood is constructed from a cape as follows : 
A-B is 1 inches, or more or less accordingly style or taste. 
C from B is 1 inch less than A-B, in this case say 9 inches. 
D from C is one third of the length of line B-C, in this case say 3 inches. 
E from D is I inch. 

Finish the hood as represented. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



81 



Yoke 




Hood 




82 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Cape Coat 



To produce a Cape Coat proceed as follows : 

Take a loose box coat pattern and mark the front as it is represented by 
points 1-2-3-4-5-6-1. 

Place the back part so that points 9 and 1 should be with points 3 and 4 in 
one direction, and in the same time be careful that points 7 and 8 should be in the 
same direction as points I and 2. 

Mark the back pattern as represented by points 7-8-9-10-11-12-7, 

1 3 is the center between I and 7. 

1 4 from 4 is allowed for fulness desired. 

Shape the side seam as represented by points 1 3 - 2 - 14. 
The front of the Cape Coat is 6-13-2-14-5-6. 
The back of the Cape Coat is 12-13-2-14-11-12. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



83 



Cape Coat 



Te 




AS .1=:^— • 



84 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Cape with Kimono Sleeves 



First produce a Cape Coat as described on page 82, then continue as follows: 

Draw a straight line from 1 3 through 2 till 1 5. 

1 5 from 1 3 is the sleeve length desired. 

I 5 from 2 is the same length as 1 5 from 2. 

Draw^ a curved line from I 5 to 1 6 as represented. 

The front is 13-2- 15- 16- 14-5-6-13. 

The back is 13-2-15-16-14-11-12-13. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



85 



Cape with Kimono Sleeves 




86 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Coat with Kimono Sleeves 



A. Square both ways from A as represented. 

B from A is the Scye depth measure. 

C from A is the Back waist length measure. 

D from A is the full length desired. 

E from B is the half Bust measure plus 4 

inches. 
G from E is /4 part of B-E. 
1 from A is S/li inches. 
J from I is 2/4 inches. 
K from A is the half of E-G. 
L is located by a line squared out from K. 
M from B is '4 part of B-E plus 2 inches. 
N from M is ''s inch less than B from A. 
Q from I is '4 inch. 
R is located by drawing a line from A 

through Q. 
S from G is 3/4 inches. 

T from S is r'4 inches less than R from G. 
W from R is 2 inches. 

X from W is •4 inch more than K from A. 
Y is located by a line squared down from E. 

1 from A is 's inch. 

2 from C is 1 '2 inches. 

3 is located by a line drawn from A 
through 2. 

4 is the center beetwen S and M. 

5 is located by a line squared down from 4. 

6 from 4 is /<! inch. 

7 from 5 is 1 '4 inches. 

8 is located by a line drawn from 6 through 
7 and a line sqarad out from 1-3. 



9 from L is 28 '4 inches. 

10 from 7 is '4 inch. 

1 1 is located by drawing a line from 10 
parallel with line C - Y and a line squared 
down from 9. 

Finish the back as represented. 

12 from 4 is '2 inch. 

13 from 5 is 1/4 inches. 

14 is located by drawing a line from 12 
through I 3. 

15 is located by drawing a line from R 
through T and is the same length as L-9. 

16 is located by a line squared out from 15 
and is /o inch wider from 1 5 than I I 
from 9. 

17 from 13 is 2*2 inches. 14 from 17 is 
the same length as 8 from 1 0. 

18 from 17 is the same length and shape 
as I I from 1 0. 

19 is located by a line squared down from 
G. 

20 from 19 is '4 inch. 

21 is located by a line squared down from 
20-Y. 

22 from 21 is 2 '4 inches. 

Allow 2 inches for single breasted but- 
ton stand and finish the front as represen- 
ted. 

Seam allowances of 's inch allowed. 

For a whole back take off at the back 
center 's inch seam as represented. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



87 



Coat with Kimono Sleeves 




88 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Raglan Coat 



First lay up all points as described in Systematic Outline, then continue as follows : 

1 is located by a line squared down from F. 

2 is located by a line squared down from E. 

3 from C is 1 inch. 

4 from D is l^ inch. 

5 from F is ;)4 inch. 

6 from Z is 1 '4 inches. 

Finish the back as represented. 

7 from F is '4 inch. 

8 from Z is 1 J4 inches. 

9 from I is I inch. 

10 from G is 1 inch. 

11 from R is 1 '4 inches. 

12 from 10 is the same length as 11 from 10 on line squared up from 10, and is located 
by a line swesped forward from R pivoting at point 10. 

13 from 10 is 2|4 inches. 

14 from R is /4 inch. 

Draw a line from 14 to the arm scye below point V as represented. 

15 is located by drawing a curwed line % inch above the line drawn from 14 to below V. 

16 from 12 is the same as 15 from 11. 

1 7 from 1 3 is '4 inch. 

Draw a line from ''4 inch below L to the arm scye at the back as represented, and 
shape above this line 1 inch. 

18 from E is •4 inch. 

19 from 2 is /^ inch. 

Draw a line from 18 through 19 for the front centre. Allow 2 inches for button stand. 

20 from 1 3 is 1 inch, and draw the crease line. 

21 from A is the desired length. 

22 is located by drawing a line from 18 through 19. 

23 from 22 is 1 '4 inches. 

Cut off the shoulder pieces from the front and back and add these pieces to the 
top sleeve as represented to make the raglan sleeve. 

In this draft are 's inch seams allowed except where the shoulder pieces were cut 
off, has to be allowed for seams. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



89 



Raglan Coat 



J3_I2 




90 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Deep Armhole Coat 



Diagram 1 

First draft and cut out a coat with Kimono sleeves as described on page 86, then 
continue as follows : 

Lay together the front and back at the shoulder seam so, that they shoald overlap 
% inch for taking the seams off, and mark the coat from one piece. 
1-2-3-4-5-6-7-1 is the front. 
8-9-10-11 -12-13-14-8 is the back. 



Diagram 2 

15 is the center between 7 and 8. 

16 from 15 is % inch, more or less accordingly style or taste. 

17 from 15 is the same as 16 from 15. 

18 from 4 is 2 inches, more or less accordingly style or taste. 

19 from 11 is the same as 18 from 4. 

Shape the seams from 16 to 18 and from 1 7 to 19 accordingly style or ta.ste as 
represented. 

20 from 16 is the same length as the shaped line is from 16 to 18 and is shaped inside 
accordingly fullness desired under the arm. 

21 from 17 is the same length as the shaped line is from 17 to 19 and is shaped inside 
the same way as point 20. 

Finish the draft ss represented. 

By cutting out the patterns allow for seams at lines 16-18, 16-20, 17-19 and 17-21. 



JTiEAMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Deep Armhole Coat 



91 




Diagram 1 




Diagram 2. 



92 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



One Piece Coat 



This pattern is constructed from a semi - fitting block pattern as follows : 

Lap over the two front parts at the bust of '4 inch for taking the seams off as rep- 

esented by A and B, and open the patterns at the hip line of I inch as C to D. 

r 

By applying this method be careful that the notches at the w^aist line should be in 
the same direction as E - F. 

Put together the front and back at the side seam at G - H. 

Lay over the two back patterns at the shoulder of '4 inch for taking the seams off 
as represented by I and J, and put together the same pattern at the hip line at K. 

Be careful that the notches at the waist line should be in the seme direction as L - M. 

Continue the line N - O to the length desired. 

If a whole back is required, take off 's inch seam at points P-Q and connect the 
same with a straight line. 

Allow for button stand as much desired. 

R is the end of the crease line. 

S is 1 inch from the neck point. 

Finish the draft as represented. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



93 



One Piece Coat 




94 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



New Market 



To make a New Market Coat or a Skirted Jacket proceed as follows : 

Cut out the pattern as represented by the upper diagram. 

Cut off the skirt at the waist line as represented by 1 -2-3-4-5. 

Put the skirt pieces together so, that they should overlap U inch at the 
waist and hip for taking off the seams and mark the skirt in one piece as represen- 
ted by heavy line on the diagram below. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



95 



New Market 




96 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Inverness 



First lay up all points as described in Systematic Outline, then continue as follows : 

1 from Z is /4 inch. 

2 from Y is 2/4 inches. 

Connect points C - I and I - 2 for the fashionable waist line. 

3 from A is the full length measure. 

Square out from 3 as represented. 

4 is located by a line squared down from M. 

5 from C is /4 inch. 

6 from A is '}^ inch. 

7 from L is ^^ inch. 

8 from 4 is Y2 inch. 

9 is located by drawing a line from P through 8. 

Finish the back as represented. 

10 from Z \s Yz inch. 

11 is located by drawing a line from E through 10. 
12- from 4 is 3 inches. 

13 is located by drawing a line from M through 12, and is from M the same length as 
9 from M. 

14 from I 1 is I inch. 

15 from M is 3 inches. 

16 from R is ^'4 inch. 

17 is the center of A-B. 

Draw a line from 1 6 through 1 7. 

18 from F is the Sleeve length measure. 

19 is located by a line sweeped from 18 pivoting at point 16. 

20 is located by a line sweeped from 18 pivoting at point 16. 

21 from 19 is I inch. 

Allow for button stand 2' 2 inches for single breasted, 33^2 inches for double breasted. 

22 from 1 6 is I inch. 

23 is the length of the crease line. 

Draw a line from 22 to 23. 
Finish the draft as represented. 
16-20-18-21 is the cape. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



97 



Inverness 




98 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Opera Cloak 



Measures 



Scye depth 7/4 inches. 

Back waist length 15/^ inches. 

Full length 50 inches. 



Bust 40 inches. 
Waist 26 inches. 
Hips 41 inches. 



To Draft 



1. Square both ways from 1 as represented. 

2 from 1 is the Scye depth measure. 

3 from I is the Back waist length meas- 
ure. 

4 from 3 is 6 inches. 

5 from 1 is the full length mesure. 

Square out lines from 2, 3, 4 and 5 as 
represented. 

6 from 1 is 534 inches. 

7 from 6 is 234 inches on line squared out 
from 6. 

8 from 2 is one-quarter of the Bust meas- 
ure plus 2 inches, in this case 1 2 inches. 

9 is located by a line squared down from 8. 

10 from 8 is half of the distance 2-8, 
in this case 6 inches. 

Square up from 10 as represented. 

1 1 from 6 is /4 inch. 

12 is located by drawing a line from 1 
throubh 1 1 . 

13 is the center of 2-8. 

14 from 1 3 is 2 inches. 

15 from 14 is /s inch less than the Scye 
depth measure on line squared up from 
14. 

16 from 1 is half of the distance 2-13, 
in this case 3 inches. 

17 is located by a line squared up from 16. 

18 from 15 is 3 2 inch on line drawn from 
17 through 15. 



19 is the center of 14-15. 

20 from 2 is Yi inch. 

21 from 8 is the same as 16 from I. 

22 from 2 1 is the same as 2 1 from 1 4. 

23 from 22 is 33^4 inches. 

24 from 23 is the same as 1 3 from 2, in 
this' case 6 inches. 

25 from 23 is the same as 12 from lO on 
line squared up from 23. 

26 from 22 is r'4 inches less than 25 from 
23. 

27 from 25 is the same as 18 from 17 on 
line drawn from 25 through 26. 

28 from 14 is 1 inch. 

29 from 22 is 1 inch. 

30 from 21 is about 1;'4 inches on line 
squared up from 21. 

Sweep line from 29 to 28 pivoting at 
point 30. 

31 from 25 is 2 inches. 

32 from 31 is /^ inch more than 16 from 1 
on line squared out from 31. 

33 is located by a line squared out from 24. 

34 from 9 is 3i2 inch. 

35 from 33 is 234 inches. 

36 from 35 is Yl inch. 

37 is located by a line drawn from 24 
through 36. 

38 from 37 is 1 inch. 

Finish the draft as represented. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



99 



Opera Cloak 




100 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Manipulation of Fronts and Backs 

The Back 

The back part is drawn by heavy lines, and is constructed with a seam at the back 
center. 

If no seam is w^anted at the back center proceed as follows : 

Draw a straight line from I through 2 to 5. 

Cut off the piece 5-3-2-5 and add the same to the back as represented from 
4 to 6. 

Take off the seam j'g inside from line I - 5 as represented by line 7. 

The Front 

The front part is drawn by heavy lines and is constructed with a seam at the front 
center. 

If no seam is wanted at front center, proceed as follows : 

Continue the straight chest line as represented by a straight line 8- 13- 14. 

Take out at the front dart so much fulness as much you gained at the front center 
by drawing the line 8- 13- 14. 

Take out fulness as follows: 

1 5 from 1 1 is the same as I 3 from 9. 

1 6 from 1 2 is the same as 1 4 from 1 0. 

Take off the seam % inch inside from line 8- 13- 14 as represented by line 17. 



TH E AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Manipulation of Fronts and Backs 



101 




10 12 



102 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Single Breasted Vest 



First lay up all points to measure as described in Systematic Outline, then continue 
as follows : 

1 from Z is "JA. inch. 

2 from Y is 2/4 inches. 

Draw lines from C to 1 and from I through 2 for the fashionable waist line as 
represented. 

3 from C is 2 inches. 

4 is the half-way between F and M. 

5 from 4 is % inch. 

6 from I is 4 inches. 

Finish the back as represented. 

7 from 4 is /4 inch. 

8 from 2 is \% inches. 

Draw line from E to 8. 

9 from G is 3J4 inches. 

10 from 9 is l^j inches on line drawn from 9 parallel with line 1-2. 

1 1 is located by drawing a line from 1 parallel with line E-8. 

12 from 11 is 1 J4 inches. 

13 from I I is 2?4 inches. 

14 from 10 is the same length as 12 from 10. 

15 from 12 is about 5 inches on line drawn from 12 parallel with line 10-11. 

16 from 14 is the same as 15 from 12 on line drawn from 14 parallel with line 10-11. 

17 from 1 is 2*4 inches. 

18 from the neck gorge is '4 inch. 

19 from U is '2 inch. 

Allow 1 inch for button stand and finish the front as represented. 

20 from 3 is 3 inches. 

21 from 6 is 3 inches. 

Take out ,'4 inch above line 3-6 and 1 inch below the line 3-6 and finish the skirt 
as represented. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 103 



Single Breasted Vest 




104 TEH AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Tight-Fitting Double Breasted Vest 



First lay up all points to measure as described in Systematic Outline, then continue 
as follows : 

1 from Z is /<2 inch. 

2 from Y is 2K inches. 

Draw lines from C to 1 and from I through 2 for the fashionable waist line as 
represented. 

3 from C is 3 inches. 

4 from 1 is 3 inches. 

Draw line from 3 to 4. 

5 from C is 2 inches. 

6 is located by drawing a line from A to 5. 

7 from 3 is 1 /<i inches. 

8 is the center between F and M. 

9 from 8 is % inch. 

10 from 1 is 2?^ inches. 

1 1 from 4 is 2 inches. 

12 is the center between 6 and 9- 

13 is the center between 7 and 11. 

14 from 10 is 's inch less than the center between 10 and 5. 

15 from 14 is % inch. 

Finish the back as represented. 

16 from 8 is /4 inch. 

17 from 4 is 1 inch. 

1 8 from 2 is 1 % inches. 

19 from G is 3J4 inches. 

20 from 19 is 1/^ inches on line drawn from 19 parallel with line 1 -2. 

21 is located by drawing a line from 20 parallel with line E - 1 8. 

22 from 21 is 1*4 inches. 

23 from 22 is about 5 inches on line drawn from 22 parallel with line 20-21. 

24 from 21 is 2*4 inches. 

25 from 20 is the same length as 22 from 20. 

26 from 25 is the same as 23 from 22 on line drawn from 25 parallel with line 20 -21. 

27 from the neck gorge is '4 inch. 

28 from the front center line E- 18 is 2^ j, inches for button stand. 

29 from U is H inch. 

Make the french cut as described on page 36, and finish the front as represented. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



105 



Tight-Fitting Double Breasted Vest 




106 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



By applying the System for Stout or Maternity sizes pay attention to the Waist 
Suppression and Hips Development as described on page 20. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



107 



Table of Proportionate Measurements 

For Stout or Maternity Sizes 



SIZE 


37 


39 


41 


43 


45 


47 


49 


Height 


3 Feet 
(i inches 

7M 
15', 
39 
30 
45 
14 
14 
18 
42 
43 
43 


5 F(mM 
(! inches 

7K 
15', 

41 
31', 

47 
14', 
14', 

18 

42 

43 

43 


.-) Feel 
(! inches 

15', 
43 
33 
49 
15 
15 
18 
42 
43 
43 


.") Feet 
() inches 

lYi 
15', 

45 
34', 

51 
15', 
15', 

17^'4 

42 
43 
43 


5 Feel 
6 inches 

1% 

15U 

47 

36 

53 

16 

16 
17', 

42 

43 

43 


5 Feel 
i; inches 

8 

15^^ 

49 
37', 

55 
16', 
16', 

17'4 

42 
43 
43 


5 Feel 
6 inches 

8k^ 
15M 

51 

39 

57 

17 

17 

17 

42 

43 

43 


Scye depth 


Back waist length 


Bust 


Waist 


Hips 


Neck 


Back width 


Sleeve (inside seam) 


CD 


Front length 


Side length 


Back Isngth 



108 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Semi-Fitting French Seam 

For Stout or Maternity Sixes 



Measures 



Scye depth 7*4 inches. 

Back waist length 15'/) inches. 



Hips 45 inches 

To Draft 



Bust 39 inches. 
Waist 30 inches. 



First lay up all points to the above meas- 
urement as described in Systematic Out- 
line, then continue as follows : 

1 from Z is Jo inch. 

2 from Y is 2/4 inches. 

Draw^ lines from C to I and from 1 
through 2 for the fashionable waist line 
as represented. 

3 from C is 1 34 inches. 

4 from 3 is J4 inch. 

5 from D is 1 inch. 

6 from O is % inch. 

7 from P is '4 inch. 

Draw a line from 6 to 7. 

8 is the half-way between 6 and 4, or 
make the width to style or taste. 

9 from 4 is 1 inch more than the distance 
from A to K. 

10 from 5 is '/(i inch more than the dis- 
tance from 4 to 9. 

1 1 is located by drawing a line from 8 to 
9 as represented. 

Finish the back as represented. 

12 from 9 is 3^ inch. 

13 from 10 is 1/^ inches. 

14 from F is % inch. 

15 from I is % inch. 

16 is located by drawing a line from 14 



through 15. 



/2 inch. 
^ inch. 



17 from 15 

18 from 8 i 

19 from 6 is ;'/K inch. 

20 from 1 8 is /4 inch. 

21 from 7 is the same length as O from P. 

Finish the side gore as represented. 

22 from 1 is 34 inch. 

23 frorn,_.l6 is I inch. 

24 from 2 is 2 inches. 

25 from G is 334 inches. 

26 from 25 is 1 Ij inches on line drawn 
from 25 parallel w^ith line I - 2. 

27 is located by drawing a line from 26 
parallel with line E-24. 



28 is located by draw^ing a line from 26 
through 27. 

29 from 27 is 32 inch. 

30 from 28 is 's inch. 

31 from 29 is 3 inches. 

32 from 26 is the same lenth as 29 from 
26. 

33 from 30 is 3*4 inches. 

34 from R is the same width as L to 8. 

Draw a line from 34 to 26. 

35 from 34 is '4 inch for seams. 

Draw a line from 35 parallel with line 
34-26. 

36 from 1 6 is 34 inch. 

37 from 22 is the same length as 36 from 
17. 

38 from 33 is I '4 inches. 

39 from 29 is the same length as 38 from 
32. 

The Systematic waist measure is 1 4 inch- 
es less than the Bust measure, in this case 
39 less 1 4 is 25 inches the Systematic 
waist measure ; the actual waist measure 
is in this case 30 inches, the half of the 
difference (2/4 inches) is to be added to 
the dart as follows : 

40 from 31 is 2' 2 inches. 

41 from 26 is the same length as 32 from 
from 26. 

42 from 33 is ' > inch more than 40 from 
31. 

43 from 41 is the same length as 38 from 
32. 

The Systematic Hip measure is 1 inch 
more than the Bust measure, in this case 
39 plus 1 is 40 inches, the half of this is 
20, add to this the same as it is 40 from 
31, in this case 20 plus 2'2 is 22'2 inch- 
es the half Hip measure. 

Compare this 22/2 vvith the half of the 
actual Hip measure (2234); if there is any 
difference, it has to be taken off by small- 
er hip, and to be added by larger hi.j at 
points 36, 37, 10 and 13 equally divided. 

Finish the diagram as represented. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



109 



Semi-Fitting French Seam 

For Stout or Maternity Sixes 




no THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Shirt Waist 



First lay up all points to your measure as described in Systematical Outline, then 
continue as follows: 

1 from Z is '/2 inch. 

2 from Y is 2'^ inches. 

Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 to 2 for the fashionable waist line as represented. 

3 from C is 4 inches. 

4 from 1 is 4 inches. 

5 is located by a line squared up from D. 

Draw lines between 3-4 and 5 as represented. 

6 from C is 2 inches. 

7 from 4 is % inch. 

Draw lines A-6-7 for tight-fitting back-, and for loose back draw line from A to 7. 

8 is the center of F-M. 

9 from 8 is '/2 inch. 

10 from 8 is '/2 inch. 

1 1 from 1 is 4 inches. 

12 is the center of 1-11. 

13 from 12 is 2'/2 inches. 

14 is located by drawing a line from X through E and is from E the same length as 5 from E. 

Finish front and back as represented. 

The back center for tight-fitting back is A-6-7 and for gathering the back at the waist 
allow fulness in the waist by drawing a line from A to 3 as. represented. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



III 



Shirt Waist 




112 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Shirt Waist with Side Gore 



First lay up all points to measure as described in Systematical Outline then continue 
as follows: 

1 from Z is '/2 inch, 

2 from Y is 2'^ inches. 

Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 to 2 for the fashionable waist line as represented. 

3 from C is 4 inches. 

4 from 1 is 4 inches. 

5 is located by a line squared up from D. 

6 from C is 2 inches. 

7 from 3 is 1% inches. 

8 from M is 1 '/4 inches. 

9 from 8 is '/2 inch. 

10 from 6 is 1 inch more than the space from A to K. 

11 from 7 is 1 inch more than the space from 6 to 10. 

12 is located by shaping the line from 9 to 10, 

Finish the back part as represented. 

13 from 10 is % inch. 

14 from 11 is Wz inches and is from 13 the sams length as 11 from 10 

1 5 from F is % inch. 
IG from 1 is % inch. 

Draw line from 15 to 16. 

17 from 16 is % inch. 

18 from 1 is 1 inch. 

19 is the centre of 17-18. 

20 from 19 ts 2'/2 inches. 

21 is located by drawing a line from X through E, and is from E the same length as 5 from E 

Finish the side gore and front as represented. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



113 



Shirt Waist with Side Gore 




114 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Tight- Fitting Waist Lining 

First lay up all points to measure as described in Systematical Outline, then continue 
as follows: 

1 from Z is '/2 inch. 

2 from Y is 2'^ inches. 

Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 through 2 for the fashionable waist line as 
represented. 

3 from C is 4 inches. 

4 from 1 is 4 inches. 

5 is located by a line squared up from D. 

Draw lines between 3-4 and 5 as represented. 

6 from C is 2 inches. 

7 from 3 is % inch. 

8 is the centre of F-M. 

9 from 8 is % inch. 

10 from 8 is % inch. 

1 1 from 1 is 4 inches. 

12 is the centre of 1-11. 

13 from 12 is 2'/2 inches. 

Finish back part as represented: 

14 from 2 is 1% inches. 

15 is located by drawing a line from E through 14. 

16 from G is 3'^ inches. 

17 from 16 is IVz inches on line drawn parallel with line 1-2. 

18 is located by drawing a line from 17 parallel with line El 4. 

19 from 18 is l'/4 inches. 

20 from 18 is 2% inches. 

21 from 17 is the same length as 19 from 17. 

22 is located by drawing a line from 19 parallel with line 14-15. 

23 from 22 is 4% inches. 

24 from 15 is Ye inch. 

Finish the front and back as represented. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



115 



Tight-Fitting Waist Lining 




116 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Tight- Fitting Waist Lining with Side Gore 

First lay up all points to measure as described in Systematical Outline, then continue 
as follows: 

1 from Z is '/2 inch. 

2 from Y is 2 V2 inches. 

Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 through 2 for the fashionable waist line as 
represented. 

3 from C is 4 inches. 

4 from 1 is 4 inches. 

5 is located by a line squared up from D. 

Draw lines between 3-4 and 5 as represented. 

6 from C is 2 inches. 

7 from 3 is 1% inch. 

8 from 12 is 1 '^ inches. 

9 from 8 is Yz inch. 

10 from 6 is 1 inch more than the distance from A to K. 

1 1 from 7 is 1 inch more than the distance from 6 to 10. 

12 is located by shaping a line from 9 to 10. 

Finish back part as represented. 

13 from 10 is % inch. 

14 from 11 is IV2 inches, and is from 13 the same length as 1 1 from 10. 

15 from F is % inch, 

16 from 1 is % inch. 

Draw line from 15 to 16. 

17 from 16 is % inch. 

18 from 1 is 1 inch. 

19 is the centre of 17-18. 

20 from 19 is 2'/2 inches. 

21 from 2 is 1% inches. 

22 is located by drawing a line from E through 21. 

23 from Gis 3!4 inches. 

24 is located by drawing a line through 26 parallel with line 1-2. 

25 is located by drawing a line from 24 through 26. 
2G is the centre of 24-25. 

27 is the centre of 24-26. 

28 is located by drawing a line from 27 parallel with line E 21. 

29 from 28 is Vs inch. 

30 from 28 is % inches. 

31 is located by drawing a line from 29 parallel with line 21-22. 

32 from 31 is IVi inches. 

33 30 is 1 inch less than the distance from A to K. 

34 from 32 is '^ inch more than the distance from 30 to 33. 

35 from 33 is 2 inches. 

36 from 26 is the same length as 33 from 26. 

37 from 34 is 2'^ inches. 

38 from 22 is Ys inch. 

Shape front and side gore as represented. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



17 



Tight-Fitting Waist Lining with Side Gore 




118 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Sleeve Construction for Waist 

1 Draw a straight line as from 1 to 2. 

2 from 1 is the sleeve length measure. 

Square a line up from 2. 

3 from 1 is a quarter of the full bust measure on a line squared up from 1. 

4 is located by a line squared out from 3 as represented. 

5 is the centre of 1-2. 

6 is located by a line squared up from 5. 

7 is the centre of 2-4. 

8 is the centre of 1-3. 

Square out a line from 8 as represented. 

9 from 8 is 2 inches. 

10 from 8 is the same length as 8 from 1. 

1 1 from 1 is 2 inches. 

Draw lines between 11-10 and from 10 through 3. 

12 is the centre of 10-11. 

13 is the centre of 3-10. 

14 from 12 is IV2 inches. 

15 from 13is% inch. 

16 from 3 is '/a inch. 

17 from 3 is '/a inch. 

18 from 6 is 2 inches. 

19 from 5 is 3 inches. 

20 from 7 is 2 inches. 

Draw a line from 4 through 20. 

2 1 from 20 is 1 inch. 

22 from 20 is 1 inch. 

23 from 4 is '/a inch. 

24 from 21 is Vi inch. 

Draw all construction lines as represented. 

Sleeve for Waist 

First lay up all points to measure as described in Sleeve Construction for waist 
then continue as follows: 

Shape the top sleeve as represented dy lines between 11-10-17-18-4-22-5-11. 
Shape the under sleeve as represented by lines between 9-16-18-23-24-19-9. 



JHE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



119 



Sleeve Construction for Waist 




Sleeve for Waist 




120 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



One Piece Sleeve 

with fulness on the bottom 
Bishop Sleeve 

Place the top- and under sleeves together at the back seam so, that they 
should over lap -'4 inch for taking the seams off, and finish as represented. 



One Piece Sleeve 

with fulness on the top and Cuff 



Place the top- and under sleeves together at the back seam so, that they 
should overlap '4 inch for takmg the seams off, and finish the sleeve as represented. 
The Cuff is represented by heavy, broken lines. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



121 



One Piece Sleeve 

with fulness on the bottom 

Bishop Sleeve 




One Piece Sleeve 

with fulness on the top and Cuff 




122 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



One Piece Tight Sleeve 



First make a Bishop Sleeve as described on page 1 20 and then continue as follows : 
A-B. Draw a straight line from A to B. 
C is the center between A and B. 

D from C is the sleeve length measure (inside seam) en line squared down from C. 
E from D is the half wrist measure plus 's inch for a seam on line squared out from D. 
F from D is the same as E from D on line drawn from E through D. 

Finish the sleeve as represented. 



One Piece Tight Sleeve 

with seam at the middle of the under arm 



First make One Piece Tight Sleeve as described above and then continue as fellows : 
A-B-C-D is the original sleeve. 
E-F is about the middle of the under-sleeve. 

Cut through the sleeve at E-F and place the piece B-C-E-F on the other side of the sleeve 
so, that B-C should be placed to A-D accordingly the notches, and mark over the new sleeve 
as represented. 

By using this kind of a sleeve be careful th it the side seem of the garment should 
correspond with the seam of the sleeve. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



123 



One Piece Tight Sleeve 




One Piece Tight Sleeve 

with seam at the middle of the under arm 




124 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Standing or Military Collar 



A. Square both ways from A as represented. 

B from A is the half neck measure plus '4 inch for two seams. 

C is the center of A-B. 

D from A is 3 inches. 

E from B is 3 inches on line squared up from B. 

F is the center of line drawn from D to E. 

G from E is "4 inch. 

H from D is '4 inch. 

I from F is '4 inch. 

J from B is ''4 inch. 

K from A is '4 inch. 

Shape the Collar as represented. 

Line A-C is the back center. 



High Standing Collar 



A. Square both ways from A. 

B from A is the half neck measure plus 's inch fcr one seam. 

C from A is 3 inches. 

D from B is 3 inches on line squared up from B. 

E from D is '4 inch. 

F from B is '4 inch. 

G from C is '4 inch. 

Fold the paper on line E-F, which is the front center. 

Shape the collar as represented. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



125 



Standing or Military Collar 




High Standing Collar 




126 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Dutch Collar 

Diagram 1 



Lay the Front and Back together at the shoulder so, that they should over 
lap % inch for taking the seams off and finish the collar as represented. 



Norman Collar 

Diagram 2 



Lay the Front and Back together at the shoulder so, that they should over 

lap '4 inch for taking the seams off and continue as follows : 
A is the neck point. 

B is the point where the collar should end. 
C from A is a straight line drawn parallel with the front center of the garment and 

is from A the same lehgth as B from A. 



Sailor Collar 

Diagram 2 



Lay the Front and Back together at the shoulder so, that they should over 
lap '4 inch for taking the seams off and finish the collar as represented. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



127 



Collars for Waist 




DIAGRAM 1 



DIAGRAM 2 /' 



/ 
/ 




.-•^ 



128 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Yoke 



To produce a Yoke lay the back and front together at the shoulder so, that 
they should overlap 4 inch for figuring the seams off, and finish the Yoke 
as represented. 



Shield 



To produce a Shield lay the back and front together at the shoulder so, 
that they should overlap \^ inch for figuring the seams off, and finish the shield 
as represented. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



129 



Yoke 




Shield 




1 30 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Waist with Kimono or Butterfly Sleeves 



First lay up all points as described in Systematic Outline, then continue as follows; 

1 from Z is ' J inch. 

2 from Y is 2*4 inches. 

Draw the fashionable waist line from C to 1 and to 2. 

3 from C is 2 inches. 

4 is the center between F and M. 

5 from 4 is ■'4 inch. 

Draw a line from 5 to 1 . 

6 from 1 is 2J'4 inches. 

7 from 5 is the same length as 1 from 3 on line drawn from 5 through 6. 

Draw a line from 3 to 7. 

8 from L is ',s inch on line drawn from O through L. 

9 from 8 is /o on line squared up from 8. 

10 from O is % inch. 

11 from 9 is the sleeve length desired. (For the full length of a regular 36 size is 29 '2 inches.) 

12 from 1 1 is the width of sleeve desired on line squared down from 1 1. (By a full length 
sleeve for regular 36 size is 6 inches. 

13 is the center between I I and 12. 

14 from 5 is 2 inches, more or less accordingly style or taste. 

15 from 12 is '2 inch on line drawn from 14 through 12. 

Finish the back as represented. 

16 from R is ' 1; inch. 

17 from U is '4 inch. 

18 from 16 is the same length as 1 1 from 9 on line drawn from 1 6 through I 7. 

19 from 18 is the same width as 12 from 1 1 on line squared down from 18. 

20 is the center between 18 and 19. 

21 from 5 is the same length as 14 from 5. 

22 from 21 is the same length as 15 from 14 on line drawn from 21 through 19. 

23 from E is the same length as 2 from E on line drawn from X through E. 

Finish the front as represented. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



131 



Waist with Kimono or Butterfly Sleeves 




^23_ 



1 32 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



One Piece Butterfly Waist 



First draft and cut out a waist pattern with kimono sleeves as described on page I 30, 
then continue as follow^s : 

Lay together the front and back at the shoulder seam so, that they should overlap '4 
inch for taking the seams off and mark the w^aist from one piece. 
i -2-3-4-5-6-7-1 IS the front. 
8-9-10-11-12-13-14-8 IS the back. 



Waist with Raglan Sleeve 



To produce this pattern, first mark a waist with Kimono sleeves from one piece as 
described above, then continue as follows : 

15 is the center between 7 and 8. 

16 from 15 is '4 inch, more or less accordingly style or taste. 

1 7 from 1 5 is the same as 1 6 from 1 5 . 

18 from 4 is 2 inches, more or less accorcingly style or taste. 

19 from 1 t is the same as 1 8 from 4. 

Shape the seams from 1 6 to 18 and from I 7 to 19 accordingly style or taste as represented. 

20 from 16 is the same length as the shaped line is from I 6 to 18 and is shaped inside accord- 
ingly fulness desired under the arm. 

21 from 1 7 is the same length as the shaped line is from 1 7 to 19 and is shaped inside the 
same way as point 20. 

Finish the draft as represented. 

By cutting out the pattern allow for seams at lines 16-18, 16-20, 17-19 and 17-21. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



133 



One Piece Butterfly Waist 




Waist with Raglan Sleeve 




134 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Measurement for Skirts 



1-1 Around the waist. 

2-2 Around the hips about 6 inches below the waist line. 

3-4 Front length till the floor. 

1-5 Side length till the floor. 

6-7 Back length till the floor. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



135 



Measurement for Skirts 




136 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Systematic Outline for Skirts 



Measurement 

Waist 26 inches. Hips 42 inches, 
Front length 43 ' ., inches. Back length 44 inches. 



A. Square both ways from A as represented. 

B from A is the the half waist measure plus 3 inches, in this case 1 6 inches. 

C from B is 4 inches on line squared out from B. 

Draw a line from A through C and longer. 
D from A is 6 inches. 
E from D is the half Hips measure on line drawn from D parallel with line A-C, in 

this case 21 mches. 
F is located by a line squared out from E. 
G from F is 1 '4 inches. 

H from A is the front length, in this case 42 inches. 

I from the center of line A-G is the side length, in this case 43 ' _, inches. 
J from G is the back length on line drawn from G through E. 

Finish the bottom as represented. 



NOTICE : In all Drafts — designed in this Systematic Outline — are seams 
NOT allowed. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



137 



Systematic Outline for Skirts 




138 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Two Gore Skirt 

High Waisted 



First lay up all points as described in Systematic Outline for Skirts, then continue 
as follows : 

1 is the center of A-G. 

2 from H is the center of H-J less 1 ' 2 inches. 

3 is located by a line drawn from 2 through I . 

4 from I is 2 inches. 

5 from A is 2-2 inches. 

6 from G is 21 '2 inches. 

Connect points 5-4-6. 
7-8 is the difference between the actual half waist measure and the measure of line A-G, and 
is divided by point I of two equal parts. 

9 is the center of 1-7. 

10 is the center of 1-8. 

1 1 is located by a line squared out from 9. 

12 is located by a line squared out from 10. 

13 from 3 is 1 inch. 

Finish the skirt as represented. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



139 



Two Gore Skirt 

High Waisted 




140 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Three or Four Gore Skirt 

High Waisted 

The draft for a tfiree or four gore skirt is the same as for a two gore skirt. 
(See page I 38.) 

The difference is in placing the seams. 

For a two gore skirt allow seams only on the sides, and no seam at the front 

and back. 

For a three gore skirt no seam on the front. Seams at the sides and back only. 
For a four gore skirt seams on the front, sides and back. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



141 



Three or Four Gore Skirt 

High Waisted 




142 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Four Gore (Panel) Skirt 



First lay up all points to measure as described in Systematical Outline for Skirts, then 
continue as follows: 

1 from A is 3 inches. 

2 from G is 3 inches. 

3 from H is 5 inches. 

4 from J is 5 inches. 

5 is the centre of 1-2. 

6 is the centre of D-E. 

Draw lines between 1-3,5-6 and 2-4 as represented. 

Measure the waist line from A to G and the difference between this measure and the 
actual waist measure is to be taken out in darts at points 1-5-2 as represented. 

For instance from A to G measures 18 inches; the half actual waist measure is 13 
inches; the surplus is 5 inches. This amount is to be taken out in darts. At the front (point 1) 
take out the least and at the side (point 5) take out the most. 

In this case take out at point 1 a half inch, at point 2 two inches, and at point 5 two 
and half inches as represented. 

NOTICE: No seams or turning-in is allowed for in this Systematical Outline. 

Allow for all seams. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



143 



Four Gore (Panel) Skirt 




144 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Five Gore Skirt 



First lay up all points to your measure as described in Systematic Outline, then continue 
as follows : 

1 from A is 3 inches. 

2 is the center between 1 and G. 

3 from H is 5} 2 inches. (Twice as 1 -A less ^j, inch.) 

4 from J is 3 inches. 

5 is the center between 3 and 4. 

6 is located by drawing a line from 2 to 5. 

The difference between the actual half waist measure and the measure of line A-G is 
to be taken out in darts as follows : 

For instance 5 inches is to be taken out. 

Take out \_i inch at point I equal divided on both sides, and 4'j inches at point 2 
equal divided on both sides. 

7 from 2 is 2^4 inches. 

8 from 2 is 2/4 inches. 

9 from 7 is '4 on line squared up from 7. 

10 from 8 is '4 inch on line squared out from 8. 

11 from 6 is '4 inch. 

Finish the draft as represented. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



145 



Five Gore Skirt 




146 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Six Gore BHI Skirt 



First lay up all points to measure as described in Systematic Outline for Skirts, then 
continue as follows : 

1 from A is 3 inches. 

3 from G is the same as 1 from A. 

2 is the center between I and 3. 

4 from H is twice as much as 1 from A less '^ inch, in this case 5' 2 inches. 

5 from J is the same as 4 from H. 

6 from 4 is the center between 4 and 5 less I o inches. 

Draw^ lines between 1-4, 2-6, 3-5. 

The difference betvi^een the measure of the waist line from A to G and the half actual 
waist measure is to be taken out in darts at points 1,2, 3. 

At the front take out the least and at the side take out the most dart. 
For istance 5 inches is the difference. 

Take out at point 1 ' _> inch, at point 2 2 ' ^ inches, at point 3 2 inches equal 

divided on both sides. 

Finish the draft as represented. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 147 



Six Gore Skirt 




148 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Seven Gore Skirt 



First lay up all points to measure as described in Systematical Outline for Skirts, then 
continue as follows: 

1 from A is 3 inches. 

2 from 1 is one-third of the line from 1 to G. 

3 is the centre between 2 and G. 

4 from H is 5 inches. 

5 from 4 is 1 inch less then one-third of 4-5. 

6 from 5 is 1 inch less than the half-way between 5 and J. 

Draw lines between l-4,2-5and 3-6 as represented. 

Measure the waist line from A to G and the difference between this measure and the 
actual waist measure is to be taken out in darts at points 1-2-3 as represented. 

For instance from A to G measures 18 inches; the half actual waist measure is 13 
inches; the surplus is 5 inches. This amount is to be taken out in darts. At the front (point 1) 
take out the least and at the side (point 5) take out the most. 

In this case take out at point 1 a half inch, at point 2 two inches, and at point 5 two 
and half inches as represented. 

NOTICE: No seams or turning-in is allowed for in this Systematical Outline. 

Allow for all seams. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



149 



Seven Gore Skirt 




150 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



9 Gore Flare Skirt 



First lay up all points as described in Systematic Outline, then continue as follows : 
1 from A is 2' j inches. 
2-3-4 are located by dividing the waist line from 1 to G of four parts. 

5 from H is twice as much as I from A less J^o inch, in this case 4^4 inches. 

6 from J is about 2' 2 inches. 

7-8-9 are located by dividing the bottom line from 5 to 6 of four parts. 

Draw lines between 1-5, 2-7, 3-8 4-9. 

Measure the waist line from A to G and the difference between this measure and the 
actual half waist measure is to be taken out in darts at points 1,2, 3, 4. 

For instance from A to G is 18 inches ; the actual half waist measure is I 3 inches, is 
surplus 5 inches. 

This 5 inches is to be taken out in darts ; at the front take out the least and at the side 
the most. In this case take out at point 1 '4 inch, at point 2 I '4 inches, at point 3 

1^4 inches, at point 4 I '4 inches equal divided on both sides. 

For making the flares place points 10, 11,12, 1 3 as high desired accorcingly style or 
taste, and allow fulness at the bottom towards the back always more and less towards 
the front. 

For instance : 

14 from 5 is ' 2 inch. 

15 from 5 is I inch. 

16 from 7 is 1 inch. 

1 7 from 7 is 1 /^ inches. 

18 from 8 is 1 1 2 inches. 

19 from 8 is 2 inches. 

20 from 9 is 2 inches. 

21 from 9 is 2*2 inches. 

if you wish flaring at the back and a slit, proceed as follows : 

22 from G is 1 3 inches. 

23 from J is in this case 3 inches. 

Make the slit about 1 ' 2 inches wide and finish the draft as represented. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



15! 



9 Gore Flare Skirt 




152 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



1 1 Gore Flounce Skirt 

First lay up all points as described in Systematic Outline for Skirts, then 
continue as follows : 
1 from A is 2 inches. 
2, 3, 4, 5 are located by dividing the waist line from I to G of five parts. 

6 from H is 3*2 inches. 

7 from J is 2}-i inches. 

8, 9, 10, 11 are located by dividing the bottom from 6 to 7 of five parts. 
Draw lines between 1-6, 2-8, 3-9 4-10, 5-11. 

Measure up the v^^aist line from A to G and the difference between this 
measure and the half actual waist measure is to be taken out in darts as represented. 
12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18 are located by marking the hight of the flounce. 
Cut out the flounce (18-! 2-H-J-18) in one piece. 

Allow fulness at the bottom of the flounce towards the back always more as 
represented by the shaded hues and cut out the new flounce from one piece as 
represented by double lines. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



153 



1 1 Gore Flounce Skirt 




1 54 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



13 Gore Plaited Skirt 



First lay up all points as described in Systematic Outline for Skirts, then 
continue as follows : 
1 from A is I J ., inches, more or less accordingly style or taste. 
2, 3, 4, 5, 6 are located by dividing the waist line from 1 to G of six equal parts. 

7 from H is 3 inches, or twice as much as I is from A. 

8 from J is V i inches. 

9, 10, 11, 12, 13 are located by dividing the bottom of six equal parts. 

Connect points 1-7, 2-9, 3-10, 4-1 1 , 5-1 2, 6-1 3 for the side seams. 

The difference between the actual half waist measure and the measure of the 
waist line from E to G is to be taken out in darts divided at points 1 , 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 
as represented. 

By applying an inverted plait in the back proceed as follows; 

14 from G is 3 inches. 

15 from J is 6 inches. 

Fold your paper at line G-J till line 14-15 and trace over the waist line, that 
the plait should not be short at the waist line. 

Allow plaits at each side of the gores as deep plaits desired. For instance 
at the top 1 ' - inches, and at the bottom 2 ' , inches on each side. 

Finish the skirt as represented. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



155 



13 Gore Plaited Skirt 




156 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Circular Skirt 



A. Draw a straight-line as from A to I . 
B from A is the half waist measure. 
C from B is 6 inches. 
D from A is 2 inches. 

E from D is 1 inch on line square down from D. 

F is located by a line sweeped from B, pivoting at E, and is from B the half Waist measure. 
G is located by a line sweeped from C, pivoting at E, and is from C the half Hip measure 
plus ^ 2 inch. 

1 from B is the front length. 

2 from F is the back length. 

3 is the center of B-F. 

4 from 3 is the side length, and is from 1 about 2 inches less than from the middle of 1-2. 



Circular Skirt with One Dart 



First draft a Circular Skirt as described above, then continue on the same draft as follows: 

5 is located by drawing a line from 3 to 4. 

6 from 5 is I inch. 

7 from 4 is the half of fulness to be taken out. 

8 from 4 is the same as 7 from 4. 

Cut out the fulness between 8-6-7, and join together lines 6-7 with 6-8 to produce tlie 
dart at the waist line as represented by points 3-6-3. 



NOTICE : On this draft are seams NOT allowed. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



157 



Circular Skirt 




Circular Skirt with One Dart 




1 58 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Circular Skirt in Gores 



First draw a plain skirt in gores as many gores desired. 

Allow at the bottom to each gore fulness as much more desired than the 
bottom width of the Systematical Outline is, and draw straight lines from the hip 
line down to the bottom as represented. 

That the fulness should fall nicely, allow always more fulness towards the 
back and less towards the front. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



159 



Circular Skirt in Gores 




160 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Princess Skirt 



This draft represents a seven gore princess skirt. 

First lay up all points as described in Systematic Outline for Skirts, then continue as 
follows : 

1 from A is 3 inches. 

2 and 3 are located by dividing the waist line from 1 to G of three equal parts. 

4 from H is twice as much as 1 from A less ' ^ inch. 

5 from J is 2' J inches. 

6 and 7 are located by dividing the bottom from 4 to 5 of three equal parts. 
8-9-10 are located by drawing lines from 1 to 4, 2 to 6, 3 to 7. 

11-12-13-14-15-16 are located by taking out darts at points 1,2 3, as described on previous 

pages. 
17-18-19-20 are the center of each gore at the hip line. 
Make the girdle as high desired. 
For instance : 

21 from A is 3 inches. 

22 from 2 is 2 ' 2 inches. 

23 from G is 3'j inches. 

24 is located by drawing a line from 18 through 12. 

25 is located by drawing a line from I 7 through I I . 

26 is located by drawing a line from 18 through I 3. 

27 is located by drawing a line from 19 through 14. 

28 is located by drawing a line from 19 through 15. 

29 is located by drawing a line from 20 through 1 6. 

Finish the draft as represented. 



JHE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



]6I 



Princess Skirt 




162 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Systematic Outline for Skirts with fixed bottom width 



First lay up all points to measure as described in Systemati; Outline for Skirts (page 1 36), 
then continue as follows : 

1 from H is the fixed bottom width. 

2 is located by drawing a line from 1 through E. 

3 from 2 is the same as 2 from G on line drawn from 1 through E. 

4 is the center between A-G. 

Draw a line from 4 through 3. 

5 from 3 is 6 inches. 

6 is the center between D-E. 

Draw a line from 6 through 5. 

7 from 6 is the same as E from 6 on line drawn from 6 through 5. 

8 is located by drawing a line from 1 through 7. 

Measure the back length from 8 to I and finish the waist and bottom lines as represented. 
This Systematic outline can be used to produce Circular Skirts too. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



163 



Systematic Outline for Skirts with fixed bottom width 




164 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Skirt for Stout Measurement 



Measures : 

Waist 40 inches. Front length 40 inches. 

Hips 50 inches. Side length 39 inches. 

Back length 38 inches. 

To Draft 

A. Square both ways from A as represented. 

B from A is the half waist measure plus 3 inches, in this case 23 inches. 

C from B is 2 inches on line squared out from B. 

Draw a line from A through C. 
D from A is 6 inches. 
E from D is the half hip measure, in this case 25 inches on line drawn from D parallel with 

hne A-C. 
F is located by a line sqared out from E. 
G from F is I I4 inches. 

H from A is the front length measure, in this case 40 inches. 
1 from the middle of line A-G is the side length, in this case 39 inches. 
J is located by drawing a Hne from G through E and is from G the back length, in this case 

38 inches. 

This diagram represents for instant a five gore stout skirt. 

1 from A is the width desired for the front panel, in this case 4 inches. 

2 is the center between I and G. 

3 from H is twice as much as 1 from A less ' 2 inch, in this case 7' j inches. 

4 is the center between 3 and J. 

Draw lines from 1 to 3 and from 2 to 4. 

The difference between the measure of the waist line from A to G and the half actual 
waist measure is to be taken out in Darts at points 1 and I as represented. 
Note that the front dart by stout skirts is larger then by normal skirts. 
To make wider the bottom, allow fulness at points 3 and 4. 
Bear in mind that fulness is to be allowed towards the back always more. 
For instance : 

5 from 3 is 1 ' j inches. 

6 from 3 is 1 /4 inches. 

7 from 4 is 234 inches. 

8 from 4 is 2/2 inches. 

Draw lines from the hip line to points 5, 6, 7, 8 and finish the draft as represented. 



THEAMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



165 



Skirt for Stout Measurement 




166 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Princess Slip 



First cut out a tight-fitting or a semi-fitting garment till the hip line, then mark each gore 
seperate on a piece of paper as represented. 

This is a tight-fitting french seam princess slip. 
A-B, CD, E-F, G H, IJ is the waist line. 
K-L, M-N, O-P, Q-R, S-T is the hip line. 

To continue the lines from the hip line down proceed as follows : 

1 from C is ' 2 inch. 

2 from D is ' 2 inch. 

3 from E is ' j inch. 

4 from F is '4 inch. 

5 from G is I inch. 

Draw lines from A through K, from B through L, from I through M, from 2 through N, 
from 3 through O, from 4 through P, from 3 through Q, from H through R. from 1 through 
S, from J through T. 

Finish the length as desired. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



167 



Princess Slip 




168 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



This System is taught by the author only. 

It has been copyrighted, and any infringement will be legally 
contested. 



PART TWO 



MISSES' GARMENTS 



!70 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



The System for Misses' Garments is the same as for Womans' 
Garments; it is only constructed, by special measurement. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Table of Proportionate Measurements 

For Misses* Sizes 



171 



SIZE (AGE) 


14 


16 


18 


20 


Height 


5 Feet 
2 in. 

6U 
14', 
35 
23 
37 
13 
13 
17 
39 
40', 
■!i 


5 Feet 
4 in. 

7 

15 

37 

24 

39 
13', 
13', 
17', 

40 

41', 

/2 


5 Feet 
6 in. 

7'4 

15', 
39 
25 

41 
14 
14 
18 

41 

42', 

43 


5 Feet 
6 in. 

7'4 

15', 
41 
26 

43 
14', 
14', 

IS 

41 

42', 

43 


Scye depth 


Back waist length 


Bust 


Waist 


Hips 


Neck 


Back width 


Sleeve (Inside seam). 


CO 


Front length 


Side length 


Back length 



172 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Systematical Outline 

For Misses' Garments 



Measurement 



Scye depth 7 inches. 

Back waist-length 1 5 inches. 

Bust 37 inches. 



Waist 24 inches. 
Hips 39 inches. 
Sleeve I7'> inches. 



To Draft 



A. Draw a straight line as from A to D. 

B from A is the Scye depth measure, in this 
case 7 inches. 

C from A is the Back waist-length measure, 
in this case 1 5 inches. 

Dfrom C is 6 inches always. 

Square out from A for the top line, from 
B for the Bust line, from C for the waist 
line and from D for the hip line as repre- 
sented. 

E from B is the half Bust measure and 4 
inches more, in this case 22' j inches. 

F is the half-way between B and E. 

G is the half-way between E and F. 

H is the half-way between B and F.] 

I from A is 5 ' 2 inches always. 

Square out from E, F, G and 1 as repre- 
sented. 

J from 1 is 2'4 inches. 

K from A is the half of the distance from B 
to H, in this case 2 '4i inches. 

Square out from K as represented. 

L is locatated by drawing a line from A to J. 

M from H is 2 inches. 



Square out from M as represented. 
N from M is 's inch less than the Scye depth 

measure, in this case 6's inches. 
O from N is ' o inch on line drawn from L 

through N. 
P is the half-way between M and N. 
Q from 1 is "4 inch. 
R is located by drawing a line from A 

through Q. 
S from G is 3*4 inches. 

Square out from S as represented. 
T from S is 1 '4 inches less than the distance 

from G to R. 
U from R is s inch more than the distance 

from L to O on line drawn from R through 

T. Cut off the point at R of 's inch as 

represented. 

V from S is 2 inches. Connect U-V. 
W from R is 2 inches. 

Square out froin W as represented. 
X from W is '4 inch more than the distance 
from A to K, in this case 3'x inches. 

Y is located by a line squared out from E. 
Z is located by a line squared out from F. 



Notice 

designed in this Systematical Outline 



arc seasn-aliowance-s 



In all Diagrams 
of % inch allowed. 

!n all Diagrams designed in this Systen'aticai Outline is the half Waist meas- 
ure 7 inches less than the half Bust measure. (See Waist Suppression on page 1 74.) 

In all Diagrams designed in this Systematical Outline is the half Hips meas- 
ure ! 1 inch more than the half Bust measure. (See Hips Development on page 1 74.) 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



173 



Systematic Outline 

For Misses' Garments 




'# 



Y 



^h 



^1 



% 



174 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Tight Fitting French Seam 

For Misses' Garments 



First lay up all points to your measure 
as described in Systematical Outline, then 
continue as folllows : 

1 from Z is ' ^ inch. 

2 from Y is 2'4 inches. 

Draw lines from C to I and from I 
through 2 for the fashionable waist line as 
represented. 

3 from C is 2 inches. 

4 from D is I '4 inches. 

5 from O is '4 inch. 

6 from P is '4 inch. 

Draw a line from 5 to 6. 

7 is the half-way betw^een 5 and L, or make 
the width to style or taste. 

8 from 3 is 1 inch less than A to K. 

9 is located by drawing a line from 7 to 8 as 
represented. 



fr 



6 the 



fr 



13 



rep- 
the 



ine from 



frc 



10 from 4 

1 1 from 8 

12 from 10 

13 from F 

14 from ' 



inch more than 3 to 8. 

4 inch. 

I inch. 

4 inch. 

_ _ _ 4 inch. 

15 is located by drawing a line from 13 
through 14. 

16 is the half-way between 9 and 1 3. 

17 is half-way between 1 I and 14. 

18 is located by drawing a line from 16 
through 1 7. 

19 from 1 7 is Vj inch. 

20 from I 7 is 'a inch. 

21 from 1 8 is 1 inch. 

22 from 1 8 is I inch. 

23 from 13 is '2 inch. 

24 from 7 is '.'x inch, and i 



from the line L-5. 



inch higher 



25 from 5 is 'x inch, and 
length as O from P. 

26 from 1 6 is I inch. 

27 from 26 is 's inch for seam. 

Finish the back and side gores 
resented. 

28 from 14 is '4 inch, and 
length as 1 4 from I 3. 

29 from 15 is 1 ' ^ inches. 

30 from 2 is I '4 inches. 

31 IS located by drawing a 
through 30. 

32 from 31 is 's inch. 

33 from G is 3 '4 inches. 

34 from 33 is 2 inches on line 
33 parallel with line 1-2. 

35 is located by drawling a line from 34 par- 
allel with line E-30. 

36 from 35 is I /4 inches. 

37 from 35 is 2;'4 inches. 

38 from 34 is the same length as 36 from 
34. 

39 is located by drawing a line from 36 par- 
allel with line E-31. 

40 from 39 is 4 '4 inches. 

41 from R is the same width as L to 7. 

Draw a line from 41 to 34. 

42 from 41 is '4 inch for seams. 

Draw a line from 42 parallel with line 
41-34. 

43 from 1 4 is the same length as 29 from 
28. 

44 from 40 is 1'4 inches. 

45 from 36 is the same length as 44 from 
38. 

Finish the front as represented. 



Waist Suppression 



By applying this System the half Waist measure is 7 inches less than the half Bust measure. For instance 
by 37 Bust figure the half waist as follows: Half Bust 17' ^ less 7 is II '^ the half waist. Now change the draft a 
follows : 

Systematic half Waist measure is ! I ' .) inches. 

Actual half Waist measure is 12 inches. 

There is missing y:-, inch in Waist. This ^ .', inch is to be added to the waist and also to the hlips by 
the dart at points 37 and 40. 

Point 37 from 35 will be only 2 '4 inches, and point 40 from 39 is '.'4 inches. 



Hip Development 



By applying this System the half Hip measure is ' .1 inch more than the half Bust measure; in this 
case the Systematic Hip measure is 19 inches. By correcting the Waist measure the half hlip measure gained ],<^inc'i-i, 
therefore the half Hip measure is now H j^ inches, and as the actual half hip measure is also IS: ' -, inches, there 
is nothing else to change at the Hip. 

If the actual half Hip measure would be for instance 20 inches, a half inch ought to be added at the 
points 43, 29, 21, 22 equal divided and vica verse. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



175 



Tight Fitting French Seam 



For Misses' Garments 




1 76 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Semi-Fitting with dart in Front 

For Misses' Sizes 



First lay up all points to your measure as described in Systematic Outline for Misses' 
Garments, then continue as follows : 

1 from Z is 1-2 inch. 

2 from Y is 2/i inches. 

Draw lines from C to I and from 1 through 2 for the fashionable waist line as 
represented. 

3 from C is I /o inches. 

4 from 3 is /4 inch. 

5 from D is i inch. 

6 from P is '^4 inch. 

7 from H is j'4 inch. 

8 from 4 is I inch more than the distance from A to K. 

9 from 3 is '4 inch more than the distance from 4 to 8 

Finish the back as represented. 

10 from 8 is /o inch. 

1 1 from 9 is 1 /o inches. 

12 from 6 is 34 inch. 

13 from F is '4 inch. 

14 from 1 is '4 inch. 

15 is located bo drawing a line from 1 3 through 14. 

16 from 14 is '2 inch. 

Finish the side gore as represented. 

1 7 from 1 is !'2 inch, and is from F the same length as 1 6 from I 3. 

18 from 1 5 is 1 inch. 

19 from 2 is 2 inches. 

Draw line from E through 9. 

20 from G is 3, '4 inches. 

21 from 20 is 1 ' j inches on line drawn parallel with line E-19 

22 is located by drawing a line from 2 1 parallel with line E- 1 9. 

23 is located by drawing a line from 21 parallel with line E-19. 

24 from 22 is Vo inch. 

25 frcm 24 is 3 inches. 

26 from 21 is the same length as 24 from 21. 

27 from 23 is j'^ inch. 

28 from 27 is 3/4 inches. 

Finish the front as represented. 

29 from 16 is the same length as 18 from I 7. 

30 from 28 is I '4 inches. 

31 from 24 is the same length as 30 from 26. 

Finish the bottom as represented. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



177 



Semi-Fitting with dart in Front 



For Misses' Sizes 




1 78 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Sac Coat with Loose Front 

For Misses' Sizes 



First lay up all points to your meaure as described in Systematic Outline, then continue 
as follows : 

1 from Z is ' 2 inch. 

2 from Y is 2^4 inches. 

Draw lines from C to I and from 1 to 2 for the fashionable waist line as represented. 

3 from C is I /'o inches. 

4 from 3 is ^ inch. 

5 from D is 1 inch. 

6 from M is '4 inch. 

7 from 6 is ,'4 inch. 

8 from 4 is 3 inches more than K from A. 

9 is located by drawing a curved line from 7 to 8 as represented. 

10 from 5 is '4 inch more than 8 from 4. 

Finish the back as represented. 

11 from 8 is 3^2 inch. 

12 from 10 is I ■^4 inches. 

13 from F is y> inch. 

14 from 1 is ' 2 inch. 

15 from 14 is 2' 2 inches and is located by drawing a line from 13 through 14, 

16 from I 4 is 's inch. 

1 7 from 1 4 is % inch. 

18 from 2 is '2 inch. 

19 from A is the length of garment desired. 

20 is located on line squared out from 19. 

21 is located by drawing a line from E through 18. 

22 from I 1 is the same length as 20 from 8. 

23 from R is ! inch. 

24 is located by a line squared down from S and is 2 '2 inches below the fashionable waist line. 

25 from 24 is /^ inch. 

26 is located by drawing a line from 25 through I 5 and is the half of the pocket size, in this 
case 3 inches. 

27 is located by drawing a line from 26 through 25 and is the full pocket size, in this case 
6 inches. 

28 from S is 1 inch. 

29 from G is ' 2 inch. 

30 is located by drawing a line from 28 through 29, and is in this case 5 inches long. 

Finish the draft as represented. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



179 



Sac Coat with Loose Front 



Fcr Misses' Sizes 




180 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Loose Box Coat 

For Misses' Sizes 



First lay up all points as desca-ibed in Systematica] Outline for Misses' sizes, then continue 
as follows : 

1 from Z is '2 inch. 

2 from Y is 2':^ inches. 

Draw lines from C to 1 and from I through 2 as represented. 

3 is the half way between F and M. 

4 from 3 is 's inch. 

5 from 3 is 's; inch. 

6 from 1 is '.^ inch more than 5 from F. 

7 from 6 is I '_| inches. 



8 from C is '4 

9 from A is ' I 

10 from L is '4 

1 1 from R is ' I 

12 from 2 is ' _; 



nch. 
nch. 
nch. 
nch. 
nch. 
Draw a line from E through 12. 

13 from A is the length of garment desired. 

14 is located by a line squared out frorh 1 3. 

15 from 14 is 'o inch. 

16 from 4 is the same length as I 5 from 5. 

17 is located by a line squeired out from 1 3. 

18 from I 7 is 1 ' 4 inches. 

19 from 1 I is I inch. 

Allow for buiton stand 3 inches for single breasted, 4 inches for double breasted. 
Finish the draft as represented. 

If you wish to have the back center without any seam, take off 's inch at the back 
center. 



JTH E AME RICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



181 



Loose Box Coat 

For Misses' Sizes 




82 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Blouse 

For Misses' Sizes 

First lay up all points to your measure as described in Systematic Outline 
for Misses' Sizes, then continue as follows : 

1 from Z is ,'2 inch. 

2 from Y is 2*4 inches. 

Draw lines from C to I and from I to 2 for the fashionable waist line as 
represented. 

3 from C is 2 inches. 

4 is the half-way between F and M. 

5 from 4 is '4 inch. 

6 from 1 is 4 inches. 

Finish the back as represented 

7 from 4 is '4 inch. 

8 is located by drawing a line from X through E, and is from E the same length as 
2 from E. 

Finish the front as represented. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



183 



Blouse 



For Misses' Sizes 




184 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Sleeve Construction for Misses* Garments 



Measurement for size 16 

Bust 37 inches. 

Sleeve length (inside seam) l?'^ inches. 

1 Draw a straight line as from 1 to 2. 

2 from I is the sleeve length measure. 

Square a line up from 2. 

3 from I is a quarter of the full bust measure on line squared up from I plus I inch. 

4 is located by a line squared out from 3 as represented. 

5 is the center of 1-2. 

6 is located by a line squared up from 5. 

7 is the center of 2-4. 

8 is the center of i-3. 

Square out a line from 8 as represented. 

9 from 8 is 2 inches. 

10 from 8 is the same length as 8 from I . 

1 1 from 1 is 2 inches. 

Draw lines between 11-10 and from I through 3. 

12 is the center of 10-11. 

13 is the center of 3-10. 

14 from 12 is U inch. 

15 from 1 3 is I'i inches. 

16 from 3 is ' 2 inch. 

17 from 3 is ' J inch. 

18 from 6 is 2 inches. 

19 from 5 is 3 inches. 

20 from 7 is 2 inches. 

Draw a line from 4 through 20. 

21 from 20 is I inch. 

22 from 20 is I inch. 

23 from 4 is ' J inch. 

24 from 21 is ' J inch. 

Draw all construction lines as represented. 



Sleeve for Misses' Garments 



First lay up all points to measure as described above, then continue as follows 
Shape the top sleeve as represented by lines between I 1-10-1 7-18-4-22-5-1 I. 
Shape the under sleeve as represented by lines between 9-16-18-23-24-19-9. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



185 



Sleeve Construction for Misses* Garments 



22 



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6 ^^ 






1 8 


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20 






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19 


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17- 



16 



13' 



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Sleeve for Misses' Garments 



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186 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Systematic Outline for Misses* Skirts 



Measurement 

Waist 24 inches, Hips 39 inches, Front length 40 inches, 
Side length 41/2 inches. Back length 42 inches. 



A. Square both ways from A as represented. 

B from A is the half waist measure plus 3 inches,, in this case 1 5 inches. 
C from B is 4 inches on line squared out from B. 
Draw a line from A through C and longer. 
D from A is 6 inches. 
E from D is the half Hips measure on line drawn from D parallel with line A-C. in this case 

19' 2 inches. 
F is located by a line sqared out from E. 
G from F is 1 '4 inches. 

H from A is the front length, in this case 40 inches. 

I from the center of line A-G is the side length, in this case 41 ' j inches.. 
J from G is the back length on line drawn from G through E, in this case 42 inches. 
Finish the bottom as represented. 



NOTICE : In all Drafts — designed in this Systematic Outline — are seams 
NOT allowed. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



187 



Systematic Outline for Misses* Skirts 




THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Seven Gore Skirt 

For Misses' Sizes 



First lay up all points as described in Systematic Outline for Misses' skirts, 
then continue as follows : 

1 from A is 3 inches. 

2 from 1 is one-third of the line from ( to G. 

3 is the center between 2 and G. 

4 from H is 5 ' 2 inches. 

5 from 4 is 1 inch less then one-third of 4-5. 

6 from 5 is 1 inch less than the half-way between 5 and J. 

Draw lines between I -4, 2-5 and 3-6 as represented. 

Measure the waist line from A to G and the difference bet^^een this measure 
and the half actual waist measure is to be taken out in darts at points 1-2-3 as 
represented. 

At the front (point I) take out the least and at the side (point 5) take out 
the most dart. 



NOTICE : No seams or turning are allowed. 
Allow for all seams. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



l«9 



Seven Gore Skirt 



For Misses' Sizes 




190 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Collars for Misses' Garments are constructed the same way as 
for Womens' Garments. 



PART THREE 



JUNIORS' GARMENTS 



192 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



The System for Juniors Garments' is the same as for Womans' 
Garments; it is only constructed by special measurement. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



193 



Table of Proportionate Measurements 



For Juniors' Sizes 



SIZE (AGE) 


12 


13 


14 


15 


16 


17 


18 


Height 


5 Feet 

6% 

13?4 

32 

23 

34 
12i.> 
12'.. 
15', 

30 

31 

31 


5 Feet 
1 in. 

6M 
14 
33 
23', 
35 

12*4 

16 
32 
33 
33 


5 Feet 
2 in. 

6% 

14'4 

34 
24 
36 
13 
13 
16' o 
34 
35 
35 


5 Feet 
3 in. 

6% 
14', 

35 
24', 

37 

13'4 

13'4 

17 
36 
37 
37 


5 Feet 
4 in. 

6% 
14^\i 

36 

25 

38 
13', 
13', 
17', 

38 

39 

39 


5 Feet 
5 in. 

7 

15 
37 

25', 
39 

13'4 

13'4 

18 
40 
41 
41 


5 Feet 
6 in. 

7',s 
15^i 
38 
26 
40 
14 
14 
18 
42 
43 
43 


Scye depth 


Back waist length 


Bust 


Waist 


Hips 


Neck 


Back width 


Sleeve (Inside seam). 


en 


Front length 


Side length 


Back length 



194 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Semi-Fitting French Seam 



For Juniors' Sizes 



First lay up all points to your measure as 
described in Systematic Outline (page 1 72), 
then continue as follows : 

1 from Z is 34 inch. 

2 from Y is 2^ inches. 

Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 
through 2 for the fashionable w^aist line as 
represented. 

3 from C is 1 /i> inches. 

4 from 3 is J4 inch. 

5 frorr, D is I inch. 

6 from O is /4 inch. 

7 from P is '4 inch. 

Draw a line from 6 to 7. 

8 is the half-way between 7 and 4, or make 
the width to style or taste. 

9 from 4 is I inch more than the distance 
from A to K. 

10 from 5 is '4 inch more than the distance 
from 4 to 9. 

1 1 is located by drawing a line from 8 to 9 
as represented. 

Finish the back as represented. 

12 from 9 is /-o inch. 

13 from 1 is I /^ inches. 

14 from F is /4 inch. 

15 from I is ?4 inch. 

16 is located by drawing a line from 14 
through 15, 

17 from 1 5 is 34 inch. 

18 from 8 is % inch. 

19 from b is % inch. 



20 from 1 8 is 34 inch. 

21 from 7 is the same length as O from P. 

Finish the side gore as represented. 

22 from 1 is ' 2 inch. 

23 from 1 6 is 1 inch. 

24 from 2 is 2 inches. 

25 from G is 334 inches. 

26 from 25 is I 34 inches on line drawn from 
25 parallel with line 1-2. 

27 is located by draw^ing a line from ^6 
parallel with line E-24. 

28 is located by draw^ing a line from 26 
through 27. 

29 from 27 is '^ inch. 

30 from 28 is 's inch. 

31 from 29 is 3 inches. 

32 from 26 is the same length as 29 from 
26. 

33 from 30 is 3''4 inches. 

34 from R is the same width as L to 8. 

Draw a line from from 34 to 26. 

35 from 34 is '4 inch for seams. 

Draw a line from 35 parallel with line 
34-26. 

36 from 1 6 is 34 inch. 

37 from 22 is the same length as 36 from 
17. 

38 fron 33 is I '4 inches. 

39 from 29 is the same length as 38 from 
32. 

Finish the front and bottom as repre- 
sented. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



195 



Semi-Fitting French Seam 



For Juniors' Sizes 




196 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Loose Box Coat 

For Juniors' Sizes 



First lay up all points as described in Systematic Outline (page I 72), then continue as 
follows: 

1 from Z is ' j inch. 

2 from Y is 2 Jo inches. 

Draw lines from C to I and from I through 2 as represented. 

3 is the half-way between F and M. 

4 from 3 is % inch. 

5 from 3 is % inch. 

6 from 1 is U inch more than 5 from F. 

7 from 6 is I '4 inches. 

8 from C is % inch. 

9 from A is "4 inch. 

10 from L is J 4 inch. 

1 1 from R is % inch. 

12 from 2 is '2 inch. 

Draw a line from E through 12. 

13 from A is the length of garment desired. 

14 is located by a line sqared out from I 3, 

15 from 14 is V2 inch. 

16 from 4 is the same length as 1 5 from 5. 

17 is located by a line squared out from 13. 

18 from 1 7 is 1 j/4 inches. 

19 from 1! is 1 inch. 

Allow for button stand 2 to 3 inches for single breasted, and 3 to 4 inches for double 
breasted. 

Finish the draft as represented. 

If you wish to have the back center without any seam, take off '1^ inch at the back 
center. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



197 



Loose Box Coat 



For Juniors' Sizes 




198 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Blouse 

For Juniors' Sizes 

First lay up all points to your measure as described in Systematic Outline 
for Misses' Sizes, then continue as follows : 

1 from Z is ' j inch. 

2 from Y is lU inches. 

Draw lines from C to 1 and from I to 2 for the fashionable waist line as 
represented. 

3 from C is 2 inches. 

4 is the half-way between F and M. 

5 from 4 is '4 inch. 

6 from I is 4 inches. 

Finish the back as represented. 

7 from 4 is '4 inch. 

8 is located by drawing a line from X through E, and is from E the same length as 
2 from E. 

Finish the front as represented. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



199 



Blouse 



For Juniors' Sizes 




200 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Sleeve Construction for Juniors' Garments 

Measurement for Size 15 

Bust 35 inches. 

Sleeve length (inside seam) I 7 inches. 



1 Draw a straight line as from 1 to 2. 

2 from 1 is the sleeve length measure. 

Square a line up from 2. 

3 frorr, 1 is a quarter of the full bust measure on line squared up from I plus 1 inch. 

4 is located by a line squared out from 3 as represented. 

5 is the center of 1 2. 

6 is located by a line squared up from 5. 

7 is the center of 2-4. 

8 is the center of 1-3. 

Square out a line from 8 as represented. 

9 from 8 is 2 inches. 

10 from 8 is the same length as 8 from 1 . 

1 1 from I is 2 inches. 

Draw lines between 11-10 and from 10 through 3, 

12 is the center of 10-11. 

13 is the center of 3-10. 

14 from 12 is /4 inch. 

15 from I 3 is 1 inch. 

16 from 3 is /4 inch. 

1 7 from 3 is /4 inch. 

18 from 6 is 2 inches. 

19 from 5 is 3 inches. 

20 from 7 is 2 inches. 

Draw a line from 4 through 20. 

21 from 20 is 1 inch. 

22 from 20 is 1 inch. 

23 from 4 is /^ inch. 

24 from 21 is ' 2 inch. 

Draw all contruction lines as represented. 



Sleeve for Juniors' Garments 



First lay up all points to measure as described above, then continue as follows 
Shape the top sleeve as represented by lines between 11-10-17-18-4-22-5-1 1. 
Shape the under sleeve as represented by lines between 9-16-18-23-24-19-9- 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



201 



Sleeve Construction for Juniors^ Garments 




Sleeve for Juniors' Garments 



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202 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Juniors' Five Gore Skirt 



Measurement 



Waist 24/^ inches. Hips 37 inches, Front length 36 inches. 
Side length 37 inches. Back length 37 inches. 



A. Square both ways from A as represented. 

B from A is the half waist measure plus 3 inches, in this case 15'4 inches. 
C from B is 4 inches on line squared out from B. 
Draw a line from A through C and longer. 
D from A is 6 inches. 
E from D is the half Hips measure on line drawn from D parallel with line A-C, in this case 

18/2 inches. 
F is located by a line squared out from E. 
G from F is 1 H inches. 

H from A is the front length, in this case 36 inches. 

I from the center of line A-G is the side length, in this case 37 inches. 
J from G is the back length on line drawn from G through E, in this ceise 37 inches. 
Finish the bottom as represented. 

1 from A is 3 inches. 

2 is the center between 1 and G. 

3 from H is 3' 2 inches. (Twice as 1-A less '2 inch.) 

4 from J is 3 inches. 

5 is the center between 3 and 4. 

6 is located by drawing a line from 2 to 5. 

The difference betw^een the actual half waist measure and the measure of line A-G is 
to be taken out in darts as follows : 

For instance A-G is I 7 inches. 

The half actual w^aist measure is 12*4 inches. 

Surplus is 4 ,'4 inches. 

Take out '2 inch at point 1 equal divided on both sides, and 4*4 inches at point 2 
equal divided on both sides. 

7 from 2 is 2Js inches. 

8 from 2 is 2! s inches. 

9 from 7 is ','4 inch on line squared up from 7. 

10 from 8 is J4 inch on line squared up from 8. 

1 1 from 6 is "4 inch. 

Finish the draft as represented. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



203 



Juniors' Five Gore Skirt 




204 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Juniors* Circular Skirt 



Measurement 

Waist 24' 2 inches, Hips 37 inches, Front length 36 inches. 
Side length 37 inches, Back length 37 inches. 



A. Square both ways from A as represented. 

B from A is the half waist measure plus 3 inches, in this case 1 5 '4 inches. 
C from B is 4 inches on line squared out from B. 
Draw a line from A through C and longer. 
D from A is 6 inches. 
E from D is the half Hips measure on line drawn from D parallel with line A-C. in this case 

1 8' 2 inches. 
F is located by a line squared out from E. 
G from F is 1 H inches. 

H from A is the front length, in this case 36 inches. 
I from the center of line A-G is the side length, in this ens? 37 inches. 
J from G is the back length on line drawn from G through h., in this case 37 inches. 
Finish the bottom as represented. 

1 from H is the fixed bottom width. 

2 is located by drawing a line from 1 through E. 

3 from 2 is the same as 2 from G on line drawn from 1 through E. 

4 is the center between A-G. 

Draw a line from 4 through 3. 

5 from 3 is 6 inches. 

6 is the center between D-E. 

Draw a line from 6 through 5. 

7 from 6 is the same as E from 6 on line drawn from 6 through 5. ^ 

8 is located by draw^ing a line from 1 through 7. 

Measure the back length from 8 to 1 and finish the waist and bottom lines as represented. 

Measure up the waist line from A to 8, and the difference between this measure and 
the actual half waist measure is to be taken out in dart or darts as described on previous 
pages. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



205 



Juniors' Circular Skirt 




206 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Collars for Juniors' Garments are constructed the same way as 
for Womens' Garments. 



PART FOUR 



CHILDRENS' GARMENTS 



208 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Measurement for Children are taken in the same way as for 
Women, Misses and Juniors. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



209 



Table of Proportionate Measurements 



For Childrens' Sizes 



SIZE (AGE) 


Normal Sizes 


Intermediate Sizes 


6 


8 


10 


12 


14 


6 7 


8 


9 


10 


Height 


.{ l-rcl 
S in. 

5'4 

11 

26 
24 
32 
11', 
10', 
12 
19 
19 
19 


1 I-Cci 

5', 

12 
27', 

25 
33', 

12 

11 

13 

21 

21 

21 


1 l-rcl 
1 ill 

5^'4 

13 
29 
26 
35 
12', 
11', 
14 
23 
23 
23 


1 I'.M'I 

N in. 

6 
14 

30', 
27 

36', 
13 
12 
15 
25 
25 
25 


:. i-iM'i 

6'4 

15 
32 

28 
38 
13', 

12', 
16 
27 
27 
27 


:i 1- 

HI in. 

5^'s 
11', 
26 
24 
32 
11' • 
10', 
12', 
20 
20 
20 


1 l-ci-l 

5', 
12 
26^4 
24', 
32*4 

ir'4 
10 s 

13 

21 

21 

21 


i Fi-ol 
■J ill. 

5-',s 

12', 

27', 

25 

33', 

12 

11 

13', 

22 

22 

22 


1 I'crl 
1 in. 

5^ 
13 
28'4 
25', 
34 '4 

12'4 
I1'4 

14 
23 
23 
23 


4 Ki'fl 
(i in. 

5'/s 
13', 
29 
26 
35 
12', 
11)1, 
14', 
24 
24 
24 


Scye depth 


Back waist length 


Breast 


Waist 


Hips 


Neck 


Back width 


Sleeve (Inside seam) 




Front length 


Side length 


Back length 



210 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Systematic Outline 

For Childrens' Sizes 
Measurement 

Breast 29 inches. Waist 26 inches, Hips 35 inches, 
Scye depth 3/4 inches, Back waist length 1 3 inches. 

To Draft 



A. Square both ways from A as represented. 
B from A is one third of the full Breast meas- 
ure, in this case 9'',s inches. 



Cfr 



B 



D from C is the Scye depth mesure, in this 

case 5 '4 inches. (In lack of the Scye depth 

measure is D from C /^ inch more than the 

center of A-C.) 
E from D is the back waist length measure. 

in this case 1 3 inches. 
F From E is 4 inches. 

Square out lines from C for the Breast 

line, from E for the waist line and from F 

for the Hip line as represented. 
G from C is the half Breast measure plus 3'^s 

inches, in this case (i4!j plus 3',s) 18),s 

inches. 
H from C is the same as C from A. 
I is located by a line squared out from H. 
J from 1 is the same as D from C, in this case 

5/4 inches. 
K from D is one quarter part of line drawn 

from D to I, in this case 2 '4 inches. 
Draw a line from K to J. 
L is the center betw^een C-H. 



M from L is 1 '4 inches. 

N is located by a line squared up from M, 

O from N is ' 2 inch. 

P is the center betwen M-N. 

Draw a tine from O to P. 
Q from H is '2 inch more than the center 

between H-G, in this case 4' 2 inches. 
R is located by a line squared up from Q. 
S from R is "4 inch less than D-K, in this case 

2 inches. 
T from J is I inch, and is from S on line drawn 

from S through T 's inch longer than line 

K-D, this 'k inch is to be taken off in corner 

at point S as represented. 
U from H is I '^4 inches. 

V from U is I "4 inches on line squared out 
from U. 

Draw a line from T to V, 
W from S is 2 inches. 

X from W is the same as D-K on line squared 
out from W. 

Y from G is ' s inch. 

Z is located by drawing a line from X through 
Y. 



NOTICE: In all Diagrams 
inch seams allowed. 



designed in this Systematic Outline - are 



Table of Aliquot Parts 



Breast Measure 


22 '4 

11 'k 


23 
11 '2 

7->, 


23 '4 


24 '2 

i2'4 

8'/,s 


25'4 
12's 


26 
13 

8's 


26'4 
13'h 

8Js 


27 '2 
13'4 

9'x 


28I4 
14'« 
9's 


29 

14' 2 
9's 


30' 2 

15'4 
lO's 


32 
16 

10' X 


One Half 


One Third 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



221 



Systematic Outline 



For Childrens' Sizes 




212 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Childrens' Tight-Fitting 



First lay up all points as described in Systematic Outline for Childrens' Sizes (page 2 1 0), 
then continue as follows: 

1 from E is 1'2 inches. 

2 from F is I ^ « inches. 

3 from I is "4 inch less than K. from D. 

4 from 2 is '4 inch more than 3 from 1. 

Finish the back as represented. 

5 from 3 is '2 inch. 

6 from 4 is ' 2 inch. 

7 is located by a line squared down from H. 

8 is lacated by a line squared down from H. 

9 is the center between H-L. 

10 is the center between 5-7. 

1 1 is located by a line drawn from 9 through 10. 

12 from 10 is ^4 inch. 

13 from I I is ^2 inch. 

14 from 10 is 1 4 inch. 

15 from 1 I is j/o inch. 

16 from 8 is ^s inch. 

17 from P is ' 2 inch. 

18 from 9 is •'4 inch. 

Finish the side gores as represented. 

19 from 7 is ' 2 inch. 

20 from 8 is ''.s inch. 

21 from Q is 2^2 inches on line draw^n from Q parallel with line X-Z. 

22 is located by a line drawn from Q through 2 I . 

23 is located by a line drawn from Q through 2 I . 

24 from 23 is 's inch. 

25 from 23 is 's inch. 

Finish the front as represented. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Childrens* Tight-Fitting 



213 




214 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Childrens* Semi-Fitting 



First lay up all points as described in Systematic Outline for Childrens' Sizes (page 2 10), 
then continue as follows : 
1 from E is 1^2 inches, 
from F is 1 3 s inches. 

3 from I is '4 inch more than K from D. 

4 from 2 is ■/4 inch more than 3 from 1 . 

5 from L is '4 inch. 

6 from P is '4 inch. 

Finish the back as represented. 

7 from 3 is 1 2 inch. 

8 from 4 is '4 inch. 

9 from 6 is '2 inch. 

10 from H is '4 inch. 

1 1 is located by a line squared down from 1 0. 

12 is located by a line squared down from 10. 

13 from 1 I is 's inch. 

14 from 12 is I inch. 

Finish the side gore as represented. 

15 from 11 is 'n inch. 

16 from 1 2 is 1 inch. 

Finish the front as represented. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



215 



Childrens' Semi-Fitting 




216 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Childrens' Sack Coat 



First lay up all points as described in Systematic Outline for Childrens' Sizes (page 210), 
then continue as follows i 

1 from E is 1 ^ -> inches. 

2 from F is 1 ' s inches. 

3 from M is '4 inch. 

4 from 1 is 1 '4 inches less than M from C. 

5 from 2 is :'4 inch more than 4 from 1 . 

6 from 3 is '4 inch on line drawn from 4 through 3. 

Finish the back as represented. 

7 from 3 is :'4 inch. 

8 from 4 is J/o inch. 

9 from 5 is '4 inch. 

10 from 7 is '4 inch on line drawn from 8 through 7. 

1 1 from S is '4 inch. 

12 is located by a line drawn from X through Y. 

13 from 1 2 is '4 inch. 

For button stand allow Po to 2 inches for single breasted, 2^2 to 3'o inches for doubfe 
breasted. 

Finish the front as represented. ' 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Childrens' Sack Coat 



217 




218 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Childrens' Loose Box Coat 



First lay up all points as described in Systematic Outiine for Childrens' Sizes (page 2 1 0), 
then continue as follows: 

1 from E is ''4 inch. 

2 from D is 1'2 inch. 

3 from K is '4 inch. 

4 is the center between H-M. 

5 from 4 is 's inch. 

6 from E is 1 inch more than 5 from C. 

7 from 4 is 's inch. 

8 from 6 is 1 inch. 

9 from S is '4 inch. 

10 from D is the full length desired. 

Square out line from 10 as represented. 

1 1 is located by drawing a line from 5 through 6 and is '4 inch above the bottom line, 

12 is located by drawing a line from 7 through 8 and is from 7 the same length as I I from 5, 

13 is located by a line squared out from 10. 

14 from I 3 is '4 inch. 

Allow for button stand I 'o to 2 inches for single breasted and 3 to 3'^ inches for double 
breasted. 

Finish the draft as represented. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



219 



Childrens* Loose Box Coat 




220 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Sleeve Construction for Childrens' Garments 

Measurement 

Breast 29 inches, Sleeve length 1 4 inches. 

To Draft 

A. Square both ways from A as represented. 

B from A is the Sleeve length (inside seam), in this case I 4 inches. 

C from A is one third of the full breast measure plus l^ inch, in this case (9 'x plus ' o) lOj/s 

inches. 
D from B is the same as C from A on line squared up from B. 

Draw a line from C to D. 
E is the center between A - B. 
F is lacated by a line squared up from E. 
G is the center between B - D. 

H from G is 1 '4 inches on line squared out from G. 
I is the center between A - C. 

J from 1 is the same as 1 from A on line squared down from i. 
K from 1 is 2 inches. 
L from A is 2 inches. 

Draw lines from L to J and from J through C. 
M is the center between L - J. 
N from M IS '4 inch. 
O is the center betvi^een J - C. 
P from O is I inch. 

Q from C is '/^ inch on line drawn from J through C. 
R from F is 1 /2 inches. 

Draw lines betvvfeen Q - R - D. 
S from C is '2 inch. 

Draw a line from S to R. 
T from H is I inch on line drawn from D through H. 
U from E is '4 inch. 
V from H is 1 inch. 
W from U is 2 '4 inches. 

Draw lines between K - W - V. 



Sleeve for Childrens' Garments 



First lay ap all points to measure as described above, then continue as follows : 

Shape the top sleeve as represented by lines between L-N-J-P-C-Q-R-D-T-U-L. 

Shape the under sleeve as represented by lines K-S-R- I -2-W-K. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



221 



Sleeve Construction for Childrens' Garments 




Sleeve for Childrens' Garments 



2* 
H( 



/ 


o-^_ 


F 




^^ 






Uv^ 










\^ ^ 


A 


f 


l§^^^,=^ 


^^ 




\i 


J> 


\i 


T 


^ K 


J/? 




^"""^^ 








""^ 


J 


(i 


B 


1— 


u 




^ 








E^ 


f; 


— d 





222 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Tight-Fitting Waist Lining 

For Childrens' Sizes 

First lay up all points to your measure as described in Systematic Oudine 
for Childrens' Sizes, then continue as follows : 

1 from E is 1 1 2 inches. 

2 is the center between H-M. 

3 from 2 is '/-i inch. 

4 from 1 is one quarter of the waist measure less '4 inch. For instance the waist 
measure is 26 inches ; in this case will be point 4 from point I (6 '2 less ^4) 5 4 
inches. 

Finish the back as represented. 

5 from 2 is !H inch. 

6 is located by a line squared down from 5. 

7 is located by a line drawn from Q parallel with line X-Z. 

8 from Q is 2'^ inches. 

Measure up the waist line from 1 to 4 and 6 to Z; deduct from this measure 
the half actual waist measure plus 2-4 inches for seams, and the surplus is to be 
taken out in dart. 

For instance by drafting a size 1 the waist line from 1 to 4 and 6 to Z 
measures 15% inches ; the half actual waist measure is 13 plus 2 '4 for seams, will 
be 15)4 inches; surplus is -2 inch, which is to be taken out in dart as follows: 

9 from 7 is h inch. 
10 from 7 is /i inch. 

Finish the front as represented. 

Remember that 'n seams are allowed all over in this draft. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



223 



Tight-Fitting Waist Lining 

For Childrens' Sizes 




224 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Waist 

For Childrens' Sizes 



First lay up all points to your measure as described in Systematic Outline (page 2 10), 
then continue as follows : 

1 from E is ,'4 inch. 

2 from I is 1 inch on line drawn from D through I . 

3 is the center between H-M. 

4 from 3 is ' 2 inch. 

5 is located by a line squared down from 4. 

6 from 5 is 1 inch on line drawn from 4 thro Jgh 5. 

Finish the back as represented. 

7 from 3 is ' 2 inch. 

8 is located by a line squared down from 7. 

9 from 8 is I inch on line drawn from 7 through 8. 

10 from Z IS 1 '4 inches. 

Draw a line from X through I 0. 

1 1 from Z is 1 ' 2 inches, more or less accordingly style or taste. 

Finish the front as represented. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



225 



Waist 



For Childrens Sizes 




226 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Children^' Coat Dress 



First lay up all points as described in Systematic Outline for Childrens' Sizes (page 2 1 0), 
then continue as follows: 

1 from D is the full length desired. 

Square out from 1 as represented. 

2 is the center between H-M. 

3 from 2 is '4 inch. 

4 from E is i inch more than 3 from C. 

5 is located by drawing a line from 3 through 4 and is '4 inch abow the line squared out 
from 1 . 

Finish the back as represented. 

6 from 2 is '4 inch. 

7 is located by drawing a line from 6 through 4 and is from 6 the same length as 5 from 3. 

8 from Z is '4 inch. 

Draw a line from X through 8 for the front center line. 

9 is located by drawing a line from X through Y. 
10 from 9 is 's inch. 

Finish the front as represented. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



227 



Childrens' Coat Dress 




228 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Standing or Military Collar 

For Childrens' Sizes 



A. Square both ways from A as represented. 

B from A is the half neck measure plus U inch for two seams. 

C is the center of A - B. 

D from A is 3 inches. 

E from B is 3 inches on line squared up from B. 

F is the center of line drawn from D to E. 

G from E is '4 inch. 

H from D is '4 inch. 

I from F is '4 inch. 

J from B is U inch. 

K from A is '4 inch, 

Shape the collar as represented. 

Line 1 - C is the back center. 



High Standing Collar 

For Childrens' Sizes 

A. Square both ways from A. 

B from A is the half neck measure plus 's inch for one seam. 

C from A is 3 inches. 

D from B is 3 inches on line squared up from B. 

E from D is '4 inch. 

F from B is 'h inch. 

G from C is /4 inch. 

Fold the paper on line E-F, which is the front center. 

Shape the collar as represented. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



229 



Standing or Military Collar 

For Childrens' Sizes 




High Standing Collar 

For Childrens' Sizes 




230 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Childrens' One Piece Sleeve 

with fulness on the bottom 



Place the top- and under sleeves together at the back seam so, that they 
should overlap '4 inch for taking the seams off, and finish as represented. 



Childrens' One Piece Sleeve 

with fulness on the top and Cuff 

Place the top- and under sleeves together at the back seam so, that they 
should ovedap '4 inch for taking the seams off, and finish the sleeve as represented. 
The cuff is represented by heavy, broken lines. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



231 



Childrens' One Piece Sleeve 

with fulness on the bottom 




Childrens' One Piece Sleeve 

with fulness on the top and Cuff 




232 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Childrens* One Piece Tight Sleeve 



Place the top- and under sleeves together at the back seam so, that they 
should overlap "4 inch for taking the seams off, then continue as follows : 
A-B. Draw a straight line from A to B. 
C is the center between A and B. 

D from C is the sleeve length measure on line squared down from C. 
E from D is the half wrist measure plus 's inch for a seam on line squcU-ed out from D. 
F from D is the same as E from D on line drawn from E throngh D. 

Finish the sleeve as represented. 



Childrens* One Piece Tight Sleeve 

with seam at the middle of the under aurm 



First make One Piece Tight Sleeve as described above and then continue as 
follows : 
A-B-C-D is the original sleeve. 
E-F is about the middle of the under sleeve. 

Cut through the sleeve at E-F and place the piece B-C-E-F on the other side 
of the sleeve so, that B-C should be placed to A-D accordingly notches, and 
mark over the new sleeve as represented. 

By using this kind of a sleeve be careful that the side seam of the garment 
should correspond with the seam of the sleeve. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



233 



Childrens' One Piece Tight Sleeve 




^ E 



Childrens* One Piece Tight Sleeve 

with seam at the middle of the under arm 




234 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Collars 

For Childrens' Sizes 



Ulster Collar 

Diagram A 

1-2. Draw a line from 1 througli 2 to 3. 

3 from 2 is '4 inch more, than the width 
of the back neck. 

4 from 3 is I '4 inches on line squared 
dow^n from 3. 

5 from 1 is 1 '4 inches on line squared 
down from I . 

Draw a straight line from 5 to 4. 
Draw a line for the collar stand from 5 
through 2 to 3. 

6 from 3 is the collar width as desired on 
line squared out from 3. 

7 from b is '4 inch for spring. 

Shape the collar as indicated. 

Standing or Military Collar 

Diagram B 

1-2. Draw a line from 1 through 2 to 3. 

3 from 2 is '4 inch more than the width 
of the back neck. 

Square up and down from 3. 

4 from 3 is I inch. 

5 from 3 is I inch. 

6 from I is I ' 1 inches. 

Shape the collar as represented. 

Standing Rolling Ulster Collar 

Diagram C 

1-2. Draw a line from I through 2 to 3. 

3 fron 2 is '4 inch more than the width of 
the back neck. 

4 from 3 is 1 '4 inches on line squared 
down from -^. 

5 from I is I '4 inches. 

Shape the collar stand from 5 through 
2 to 3. 

6 from 4 is the width of collar desired en 
line squared down from 4. 

7 from 6 is ''4 inch for spring. 

Shape the collar as indicated. 

The stand at 5 - 2 - 3 is to be stretched. 

Standing Rolling Military Collar 

Diagram D 

1-2. Draw a line from 1 through 2 to 3. 

3 from 2 is 4 inch more than the width 
of the back neck. 

Square up and down from 3. 

4 from 3 is 1 inch. 

5 from 3 is 1 inch. 

6 from I is 1 '4 inches. 

7 from 5 is the width of the roll collar as 
desired. 

8 from 7 is J^ inch for spring. 



9 from 6 is the width as desired. 

Finish the collar as represented. 

The outer leaf of the collar line 9-7-8 
must be slightly stretched. 

Roll and Button High Collar 

Diagram E 

1 is the shoulder point. 

2 from t is 1 V^ inches. 

3 is the end of the break of lapel. 

4 is located by draw^ing a line from 3 to 2. 

Draw a line from 4 through 1 to 5. 

5 from I is '4 inch more than the width 
of the back neck. 

6 from 5 is 1 /4 inches on line squared 
down from 5. 

7 from 5 is the width of the collar desired 
on line squared up from 5, 

8 from 7 is ' _> inch for spring. 

Finish the collar as represented. 

Standing Lay Down Collar 
from two pieces 

Diagram F 

1-2-3-4 is the standing collar, which was 
produced accordingly Ciagram B. 

5 from I is 1 74 inches, and is the same 
length f;om 2 as I from 2. 

6 from 2 is the w^idth of the collar desired 
on line draw^ from 2 through 3. 

7 from 6 is ' J inch for spring. 

Finish the collar as represented. 

Storm Collar 

Diagram G 

For producing this collar take a stand- 
ing collar and cut it in three pieces. 
1-2 is the bottom of the standing collar. 
3-4 is the top of the standing collar. 
5-6 are located by dividing the bottom of 

three part. 
7- ■ are produced by dividing the top line 
of the collar of three parts. 

Depart the pieces at points 7 and 8 so 
far as much fulness you desire and finish 
the collar as represented. 

Allow for seams between the pieces. 

Flat Collar 

Diagram H 

For producing this collar put together 
the front and back at the shoulder so, that 
they should overlap '4 inch for taking the 
seams off, and mark the collar to the shape 
desired. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



235 



Collars 

For Childrens' Sizes 




236 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Systematic Outline for Childrens' Skirts 

Measurement 

Waist 26 inches, Hips 35 inches, Front length 23 inches. 
Side length 23 inches, Back length 23 inches. 

To Draft 

A. Square both ways from A as represented. 

B from A is the half waist measure, in this case I 3 inches. 

C from B is 5 '4 inches on line squared out from B. 

Draw a line from A through C. 
D from A is 4 inches. 
E from D is the half Hip measure, in this case l7'o inches on line drawn from D parallel 

with line A-C. 
F is located by a line squared out from E. 
G from F is \}/4 inches. 
H is the center between A - G. 
I from H is ' 2 inch. 

Finish the waist line A-l-G as represented. 
J from A is the front length measure, in this case 23 inches. 
K from 1 is the side length measure, in this case 23 inches. 
L from G is the back length measure, in this case 23 inches on line drawn from G through E. 

Finish the draft as represented. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 237 



Systematic Outline for Childrens' Skirts 




238 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Childrens' Five Gore Skirt 



First lay up all points as described in Systematic Outline for Childrens' Skirts 
(page 236), then continue as follows : 

1 from A is 3 inches. 

2 is the center between 1 -G. 

3 from J is 5 ' l; inches (twice as much as I from A less Vi inch). 

4 is the center betw^een 3 - L. 

Draw lines betw^een 1 -3 and 2-4. 

Measure up the waist line from A to G and the difference between this 
measure and the half actual waist measure is to be taken out in darts as represented. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



239 



Childrens' Five Gore Skirt 




240 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Remember that by Childrens the Breast measure increases 
and decreases from size to size 1 h inches, during by Ladies, Misses 
and Juniors 2 inches. 



PART FIVE 



INFANTS' GARMENTS 



242 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Collars for Infants' Garments are Constructed the same way 
as for Childrens' Garments. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



243 



Table of Proportionate Measurements 



For Infants' Sizes 



SIZE (AGE) 


1 


2 


3 


4 


5 


6 




Height 


2 Feet 
10 in. 

4% 

8V2 
22'4 
2VA 
28'4 
lOS 

9'4 

8', 
16', 
16', 
16', 


3 Feet 

4^'4 

9 

23 

22 

29 
10', 
9', 

9 

17 

17 
17 


3 Feet 
2 in. 

4"s 
91/0 

23'4 
22', 
29U 
10^ 

9'4 

91, 

17', 
17', 
17', 


3 Feet 

4 in. 

5 
10 

24', 
23 
30', 
11 
10 
10 
18 
18 
18 


3 Feet 
6 in. 

5's 
lO'o 
25'4 
23', 
31-4 

11'4 

10-4 

10', 

18', 
18', 
181, 


3 Feet 
8 in. 

5'4 

11 

26 

24 

32 
11', 
10', 

11 

19 

19 

19 




Scye depth 




Back waist length 




Bust 




Waist 




Hips 




Neck 




Back width 




Sleeve length 
(Inside seam) 




C/2 


Front length 




Side length 




Back length 





244 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Systematic Outline 

For Infants' Sizes 

Measurement 

Breast 24 'o inches. Waist 23 inches. Hips 30 '^ inches. 
Scye depth 5 inches. Back waist length 1 inches. 

To Draft 



A. Square both ways from A as represented. 
B from A is one third of the full Breast meas- 
ure, in this case 8,'s inches. 
C from B is i-j, inch. 
D from C is the Scye depth measure, in this 

case 5 inches. (In lack of the Scye depth 

measure is D from C 'i inch more than the 

center of A-C.) 
E from D is the back waist length measure, 

in this case 1 inches. 
F From E is 4 inches. 

Square out lines from C for the Breast 

line, from E for the waist line and from F 

for the Hip line as represented. 
G from C is the half Breast measure plus 3 's 

inches, in this case (I2J4 plus 3 's) 15 's 

inches. 
H from C is the same as C from A. 
I is located by a line squared out from H. 
J from 1 is the same as D from C. 
K from D is one quarter part of line drawn 

from D to 1. 

Draw a line from K to J. 
L is the center between C-H. 



M from L is 1 '4 inches. 

N is located by a line squared up from M. 

O from N is 'j inch. 

P is the center betwen M-N. 

Draw a line from O to P. 
Q from H is ' 2 inch more than the center 

between H-G. 
R is located by a line squared up from Q. 
S from R is '4 inch less than D-K. 
T from J is 1 inch, and is from S on line drawn 

from S through T 's inch longer than line 

K-D, this 's inch is to be taken off in corner 

at point S as represented. 
U from H is 1 '4 inches. 

V from U is 1 '4 inches on line squared out 
from U. 

Draw^ a line from T to V. 
W from S is 2 inches. 

X from W is the same as D-K on line squared 
out from W. 

Y from G is ' s inch. 

Z is located by drawing a line from X through 
Y. 



NOTICE: In all Diagrams 
inch seams allowed. 



designed in this Systematic Outline — are 



Table of Aliquot Parts 



Breast Measure 


22S 

ll's 

7-\ 


23 
11', 

7\s 


23 J4 

ll's 

7's 


241. 

12'4 

8's 


25^4 
12 >s 
8^',s 


26 
13 

8's 


26 t 
13 s 

8's 


271, 
13U 
9's 


28'4 
9\ 


29 

14', 
9's 


30', 

15'4 
lO's 


32 
16 

10 's 


One Half 


One Third 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



245 



Systematic Outline 

For Infants' Sizes 




246 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Infants* Loose Box Coat 



First lay up all points as described in Systematic Outline for Infants' Sizes (page 244), 
then continue as follows: 

1 from E is 4 incfi. 

2 from D is '2 inch. ___^ ; 

3 from K is ,'4 inch. 

4 is the centerbetween H-M. 

5 from 4 is ''x inch. 

6 from E is 1 inch more than 5 from C. 

7 from 4 is 's inch. 

8 from 6 is I inch. 

9 from S is '4 inch. 

10 from D is the full length desired. 

Square out line from 1 as represented. 

11 is located by drawing a line from 5 through 6 and is '4 inch above the bottom line. 

12 is located by drawing a line from 7 through 8 and is from 7 the same length as I I from 5. 

13 is located by a line squared out from 10. 

14 from 1 3 is '4 inch. 

Allow for button stand 15 2 to 2 inches for single breasted and 3 to 3' 2 inches for double 
breasted. 

Finish the draft as represented. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



247 



Infants' Loose Box Coat 




248 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Sleeve Construction for Infants^ Garments 

Measurement 

Breast 24.' o inches, Sleeve length 1 I inches. 

To Draft 

A. Square both ways from A as represented. 

B from A is the Sleeve length (inside seam), in this case I I inches. 

C from A is one third of the full breast measure plus y, inch, in this case (8' s plus ' .) 8>; 

inches. 
D from B is the same as C from A on line squared up from B. 

Draw a line from C to D. 
E is the center between A - B. 
F is lacated by a line squared up from E. 
G is the center between B - D. 

H from G is 1 '4 inches on line squared out from G. 
I is the center between A - C. 

J from I is the same as I from A on line squared down from I. 
K from I is 2 inches. 
L from A is 2 inches. 

Draw lines from L to J and from J through C. 
M is the center between L - J. 
N from M IS ,'4 inch. 
O is the center betw^een J - C. 
P from O is I inch. 

Q from C is lo inch on line drawn from J through C. 
R from F is I/2 inches. 

Draw lines between Q - R - D. 
S from C is /2 inch. 

Draw a line from S to R. 
T from H is 1 inch on line drawn from D through H. 
U from E is ;'4 inch. 
V from H is 1 inch. 
W from U is 2 '4 inches. 

Draw lines between K - W - V. 



Sleeve for Infants' Garments 

First lay ap all points to measure as described above, then continue as follows r 

Shape the top sleeve as represented by lines between L-N-J-P-C-Q-R-D-T-U- L. 

Shape the under sleeve as represented by lines K-S-R- I -2-W-K. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



249 



Sleeve Construction for Infants' Garments 




Sleeve for Infants' Garments 




250 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER A ND CUTTER 



Infants' Coat Dress 



First lay up all points as described in Systematic Outline for Infants' Garments (page 244), 
then continue as follows : 

1 from D is the full length desired. 

Square out from 1 as represented. 

2 is the center between H-M. 

3 from 2 is '4 inch. 

4 from E is I inch more than 3 from C. 

5 is located by drawing a line from 3 through 4 and is '4 inch abow the line squared out 
from 1 . 

Finish the back as represented. 

6 from 2 is ,'4 inch. 

7 is located by drawing a line from 6 through 4 and is from 6 the same length as 5 from 3. 

8 from Z is '4 inch. 

Draw a line from X through 8 for the front center line. 

9 is located by drawing a line from X through Y. 
10 from 9 is ;',x inch. 

Finish the front as represented. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



251 



Infants' Coat Dress 




252 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Infants* One Piece Sleeve 

with fulness on the bottom 



Place the top- and under sleeves together at the back seam so, that they 
should overlap '4 inch for taking the seams off, and finish as represented. 



Infants' One Piece Sleeve 

with fulness on the top and Cuff 

Place the top- and under sleeves together at the back seam so , that they 
should overlap '4 inch for taking the seams off, and finish the sleeve as represented. 
The cuff is represented by heavy, broken lines. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



253 



Infants' One Piece Sleeve 

with fulness on the bottom 




Infants' One Piece Sleeve 

with fulness on the top and Cuff 




254 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Infants' Yoke 



To produce a Yoke lay the back and front together at the shoulder so, that 
they should overlap U inch for figuring the seams off, and finish the Yoke 
as represented. 



Infants' Shield 



To Produce a Shield lay the back and front together at the shonlder so, 
that they should overlap '4 inch for figuring the £earr.s off, c.nd finish the Shield 
as represented. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



255 



Infants' Yoke 




Infants' Shield 




256 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Hood 



The hood is constructed from a cape as follows : 
A-B is 1 inches, more or less accordingly style or taste. 
C from B is 1 inch less than A-B, in this case say 9 inches. 
D from C is one-third of the length of line B-C, in this case say 3 inches. 
E from D is 1 inch. 

Finish the hood as represented. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



257 



Hood 




258 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Collars for Infants' Garments are constructed the same way 
as for Childrens' Garments. 



PART SIX 



GRADING 



260 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Art of Grading 



Graduation may be described as the art 
of grading a number of different sized gar- 
ments from a single model, and in ladies gar- 
ment cutting it is frequently a great assistance 
to the grader. 

This, indeed, the production of pattern 
sets, is the most practical use to which the 
system of grading lends itself. 

Assuming that a single pattern has been 
so corrected by alterations as to produce a 
correct fit combined with a perfection of style, 
it naturally follows that the cutter is anxious 
to produce a comlete set of patterns embod- 
ying the same excellencies. 

By no other plan of working can such a 
desirable result be arrived at more expedi- 
tiously than through grading. 

But to attain succes the grader must have 
at his command a logical and truly scientific 
method of working. It must be exact, practi- 
cal and comprehensive in minute deatil 

In w^holesale manufacturing every gar- 
ment is made up in different sizes. 

The medium size is for : 

Ladies' Garments 36 Bust 

Misses' " 16 Years 

Juniors' '' 15 



Childrens' Garments 10 Years 

Infants' " 4 

Whatever shape or style of garment it 
may be — tight fitting, semi-filting or loose no 
matter how many pieces the pattern is cut 
into, the grading is the same as diagrams will 
show under this heading. 

Revers, shapes, lapels, scallops, tabes, 
gathers, plaits, folds, tucks, etc. are never 
graded; regarding this use your ow^n judgment. 
In the diagrams the inside lines show how 
to grade a smaller size and the outside lines 
shov/ to grade a larger size. 
The sizes are in : 

Ladies' Garments from 32 to 44 
Misses' " "14 ■• 20 

Juniors' " " 1 3 " 19 

Childrens' " " 6 " i4 

Infants' " " 2 " 6 

The amount v^fhich is taken off for smaller 
size or added to for larger size is from size to 
size, for instance from 36 to 38 or vice-versa. 
If you v^rish to grade for 2 sizes larger or 
smaller, for instance from 36 to 40 than you 
have to add to, resp. to take off the double 
amount as marked on diagrams. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



261 



Scale of Regular Stock Patterns 

Showing how many inches the garment increases and decreases in proportion 
from size to size. 



Measures 


Ladies' 


Misses' and 
Juniors' 


Childrens' 
and Infants' 


Around Bust 


2 


2 


Wi 


Around Waist 


1^ 


Wi 


\ 


Around Hips 


2 


1 


\Yi 


Scye depth 


The same 


's 


Va 


Waist length 


The same 


1/ 


1 


Across Back 


Vi 


Vi 


Yi 


Across Chest 


v.. 


'/.) 


Y 


Aroudd Neck 


1 , 


1 , 


A 


Front Length 


1 

-,s 


■'s 


1 


Underarm length 


The same* 


1 , 


% 


Length of Shoulder 


1 
s 


1 

s 


% 


Hight of Shoulder 


'^4 


'4 


Vi 


Sleeve length 


The same 


Mis. >.Jun. 1 


1 


Around Muscle of Arm 


'A 


1/, 


Vi 


Around Elbow 


1/ 

/2 


¥i 


Vi 


Around Wrist or Cuff 




s 


■% 


Armhole 


m 


,-'4 


% 


Length of Entire Body 


1 


Mis.2Jun.3 


4 



*Underarm-Length from size 40 up "^^4 inch shorter at the armhole 
tArmhole from size 40 up '4 inch lower. 



262 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Grading of 
Ladies' Tighth-Fitting with dart 




Increases and 
Decreases 

for Each Size 





j_, 


.fcj 


. 2 




ca 


3 


^ 


en 


















O 


o 


< 


< 







V 






> 












3 

u 








M 3 


Ot 3 


.^ 


'Z 


C 




1 CO 




z 



1. Front 


1 :, 




Va 




1 / 

.'S 


% 


% 


% 


2. Front Side 


I 


1 

. X 














3. Backside 


1 

,' s 














'4 


4. Back 


,^•4 






V', 


1 

s 


s 


I • 

s 


% 


Total 


1 


'H 


U 1 lu h 


.ks 


^4 


% 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



263 



Grading of 
Ladies' Semi-Fitting with Side Piece 






























^ 










Increases and 


3 


to 


_c 






^ 


> 








U 


CQ 


° fc 


"- 


3 

u 


u 


for Each Size 














:c2 

bo 3 


■£ "0 

be 3 




E 
< 




< 




< 



< 


< 


X en 


C 


Z 


1. Front 


1 , 


■= 


u 




1 

s 


% 


^ 


% 


2. Side Piece 


'4 


u 












% 


3. Back 


'4 


1 

s 




'4 


's 


% 


1 

s 


M 


Total 


1 


/'s 


u 


h 


'4 


's 


•4 


% 



264 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Grading of 
Ladies' Eton 




Increases and 

Decreases 
for Each Size 




u 

< 


'5 


u 
o 

< 


ID 

6 



Vh 

o 

< 


o 

(0 
QQ 

m • 



o 

< 




C 

-J en 


V 

> 

3 

u 

o 

V 

Z 




E 

< 


I. Front 
2 .Back 


1 J 
1/ 


1 , 

- ;! 


/4 


u 


1 
- s 

1 

' s 


1 

- s 

1 


1 

1 

s 




Total 


1 


''S 


h 


H 


K 


's 


'4 


4 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



265 



Grading of 
Ladies' Semi-Fitting French Seam 




Increases and 

Decreases 
for Each Size 





^ 












^^ 


!5 


« 


-« 








3 
03 


£13 


U 


CD 


:£2 


■- 


3 

u 








O 





M 3 


M 3 


_« 


1-1 


kH 












o 


O 


o 




-C en 




i) 


< 


< 


< 


< 


-J ^ 


z 



1 . 1 St Part Front 



2. 2nd Part Front 



3. Back Side 



4. Back 



•'i li 


':'/] (i 


'Via 




I 


Mfl 


,\s 


■'k; 


"Jki 


Vw. 




, N 


Vi,, 




■>'m 


^'iti 






J 

1 , 


yi.i 


1 
1 

N 



Total I I 



266 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Grading of 
Ladies' Tight-Fitting French Seam 




Increases and 

Decreases 
for Each Size 


3 
CQ 
m 

u 

< 


■(3 

p 
< 


U 


u 

< 


o 

m 



o 

< 


W) 3 
I en 


<- 
V 

M 3 
C 

-J cn 


> 

3 
U 

o 
u 
Z 




-a 
E 
< 


1 . 1 St Part Front 

2. 2ndPartFront 

3. Under arm 
Gore 

4. Back Side 

5. Back 


71 .i 

■Tiu 


■;i(i 
1 

s 
Vi.i 


=yiu 

Vi.i 


Vu; 
■Ti« 


1 

1 

s 

1 

s 

1 

'S - 




1 
s 

1 
s 


'/s 

'4 


Total 


1 


■'s 


k 


J4 


i-i 


1 
s 


'^ 


4 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



267 



Grading of 
Ladies' Tight-Fitting Double French Seam 




Increases and 

Decreases 
for Each Size 


3 
QQ 

o 
o 

< 




o 

< 


U 


< 


U 

nj 
□Q 


u 
< 


M 3 

X en 


tS -XI 
to "3 
c 


> 

3 
U 

V 

Z 




E 

< 


1. 1st Pait Front 


''/-■'.•I 


■'■■•- 


•'ijL' 




1 

. N 


IU2 


1 




2. 2ndPartFront 


^i^ 


'u: 


h-l 




1 

/.S 


v,« 






3. 3rd Part Front 


%- 


■■'::, 


'.•52 




',s 


IU:2 






4. Under arm 


1 
















Gore 
















's 


5. Back Side 


•>.'l:.' 


■/.tl* 




\k-2 


Vs 


Ml-2 




'4 


6. Middle Back 


'l.i 


•lu 




I'u: 


1 

s 


Vi.i 






7. Back 


'Y-.^-j 


l/^tL- 




■'/U'2 


'n 


%2 


1 • 




Total 


1 


-'s 


,'•4 


'4 


'/4 


1,: 


s 


4 



268 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



How to Grade Misses' Sizes 
from Ladies' Size Patterns 



Size 20 is the same as size 38. 

Size 1 8 is the same as size 36. 

Size 1 6 is the same as size 34, but ' o inch shorter in the waist lengtht. 

Size 1 4 is the same as size 32, but 1 inch shorter in the waist length. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



-269 



Grading of 
Misses' and Juniors' Tight-Fitting with dart 




Increases and 


3 
DQ 


'5 




o 
CO 
CQ 


"^ in 


"o in 


> 


u 


"a 


Decreases 










"S "0 


_C -0 


u 





_c 


for Each Size 











O 


M 3 


M 3 


_i! 


e 


M 






1-1 




iM 












< 


< 


< 


< 


X en 


-J cn 


z 


< 


J 


1. Front 


}/; 


M 


M 




)^ 


K 


K 


3/ 

/s 


1^.; 


2. Front Side 


1 

s 


1 

/ s 












1 


Vi 


3. Back Side 


H 


Vs 










1 


1 

N 


Vo 


4. Back 


H 






H 


's 


1 

s 


1^ 


1 

S 


Vi 


Total 


1 


', 


^4 


'a 


1 

, 4 


u 


'4 


u 


1,/ 



N. B. The Dart '4 inch higher or lower as represented. 



270 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Grading of 
Misses' and Juniors' Tighth-Fitting French Seam 




Increases and 


3 
CQ 




U 


O 
CO 

03 


^ fe 


"o >- 


> 

3 


u 


2 


Decreases 
for Each Size 



o 
< 


in 


u 
o 

< 




u 
o 

< 



u 
o 

< 


:S3 

60 3 


M "3 
C 

-J cn 




D 

2 




E 
< 


c 


1 . 1 St Part Front 


■''i<; 


■"'1(! 


«/l.! 




1 

s 


Vi.i 


■'s 




3^ 


2. 2ndPartFront 


•/i(i 


'Ym; 


Vi,-, 




1 , 


'/,„ 




:! 

S 


1/ 


3. Under arm 
















1 


1^ 


Gore 


s 














s 




4. Back Side 


■'■'l (! 


's 




' i <i 


's 


'i.i 




^4 


Vi 


5 -Back 


•yi(i 


The Same 




■■y^n 


1 


'1.1 


1 ^ 




'/o 


Total 


1 


4 


U 


H 


'4 


1 
s 


'4 


"4 


1/ 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



271 



Grading of 
Childrens' and Infants' Semi-Fitting 








„ 














^ 




% 




<u 









11 
> 




'S 


Increases and 


CQ 


^ 


u 


CQ 


"5 '7 


'^ 'r 


<u 


s^ 


Decreases 












-c -a 


U 





^ 


for Each Size 














W) 3 


bi) 3 


_M 


_c 


00 








>-< 


^ 




c 




c 


c 


















D 








< 


< 


< 


< 


X^ 


Ufn 


z 


< 


J 


1. Front 




S 


% 




'4 


1 

s 


1 


'^ 


4 


2. Side Piece 


1/ 

/IS 


1 
S 












I 


"4 


3. Back 


'4 


The same 




'4 


34 


% 


ks 


Va 


1 


Total 


4 


1/, 


■^ 


'4 


1., 


1 

s 


'4 


:i 
4 


1 



272 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Grading of 
Childrens* and Infants' Box Coat 




Increases and 

Decreases 
for Each Size 


1 



o 

< 


'3 

in 

o 

< 


to 

u 

-C 

to 


i- 
u 

< 




tS 
CQ 
to 



< 


M 3 

X en 


" V 
C 


V 

> 

u 

p 

u 
z 


Ji 
"0 

< 


to -^ 

^ 15 


1. Front 

2. Back 




s 


'4 


K 


^4 

H 


3-^ 

/■ 8 


1 

s 

'■8 


s 


'xi 


Total 


•'4 


^'•4 


h 


'4 


1^, 


% 


M 


% 


V4 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



273 



Grading of 
Ladies', Misses', Juniors', Childrens' and Infants' Sleeve 



// ^^^^Si, 


ffcv 




/ / ^^ 




- 


~w^^ 1 


>^ 




/ 


' 


12 1 


^\\ 




\^ 


*S-^ 


^""^--X,,,, 


-'-'' 









Wrist 

or 
Cuff 


Muscle 
of 
arm 


LENGTH 


Increases and 

Decreases 
for Each Size 


"(0 

JJ 


1) 

to 


,0 

'c 

3 


C 




1 . Top Sleeve 




•Tio 


'4 


The 


1 , 


1 


1 


1 


2. Under Sleeve 




=VHi 


'4 


The 


1 , 


1 


1 


1 


Total 


X 


1 , 


The 


1 , 


1 


1 


1 



274 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Grading of 
Cape, Yoke, Collar, Cuff 







increases and Decreases for Each Size 
Cape : Neck J4, Around Bust 1 inch. 
Yoke: Neck '4, Front J4, Back ,'4 inch. 
Collar: Neck ,^4 inch. 
Cuff: Length on top ' j. on bottom 's inch. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



275 



Length of Garments 



1 


'in f^ 

-O .N 
JO CO 




'in "^ 

D 

_3 en 


~ N 


C U 

1: ''^ 


Short Jacket 


19 


18 


17 


20 


16 


Half Three-Quarter Coat 


32 


27 


26 






Three-Quarter Coat 


36 


32 


31 


30 


22 


Full Three-Quarter Coat 


42 


38 


37 


36 


28 


Cravanet 


54 


50 


49 






Negligee Gown 


60 


58 


57 






Kimono or Dressing Sacque 


22 


20 


19 






Chemise 


42 


42 


41 


38 




Night Gown 


58 


56 


55 


40 





Grading of Length 




276 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Skirts 





Ladies" 


Misses" 


Juniors" 


ChiWrens" 


Measures 


Size 36 


Size 16 


Size 14 


Size 10 


Around belt 


25 


24 


24 


26 


Around Hips 


43 


41 


38 


32 


Front Length 


42 


40 


34 


23 


Side Length 


43^2 


4VA 


35 


23 


Back Length 


44 


42 


35 


23 



Grading of Skirt 



Measures 


Ladies" 


Misses' 


Junsors' 


Childfens" 


Around Belt 


iVi 


1 


1 


Vi 


Around Hips 


2 


2 


2 


VA 


Length 


The same 


1 


2 


2 



This is divided equally amDng all the gores, as many 
as there may be. 



PART SEVEN 



SPECIAL MEASUREMENT 



278 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Foundation of Garment Cutting 



The method of Cutting may be divided in various ways, as for instance 
Proportinate and Special measures system, but looked at from the practical stand- 
point, they may be divided into two plans, viz, the cutting of a special pattern for 
each customer and the using of one model pattern for many different customers, 
adapting it as ocassion may demand, either by judgement or the indications of 
special measures. 

Cutting by model patterns is one of the most successful methods, and whilst 
much may be said in favor of the specially drafted pattern for each individual 
customer, yet there are also a considerable number of arguments to be advanced 
in favor of the model pattern being used as the basis of operation. To begin with, 
it is much easier to retain the same style in all the garments produced by this 
method than from any other; and when one has a pattern that will produce a 
really reliable, good-fitting, smart hanging, stylish garment, it is surprising what a 
large number of customers it can be used for, and what a very varied selection of 
garment it can be made to produce. 

The first essential in all this is to get a good fitting model, and there are 
many methods of doing this. Some cutters make it a point of honor to produce 
their own models, carefully testing them at each stage by first of all cutting the 
garment out in linen and then altering and adjusting it so that every detail is 
brought to meet their views of style add fit. There are others who find it much 
more advantageous to avail themselves of the skill of more experienced practitioners, 
and in this way they are enabled to obtain the very best talent, which would other- 
wise be quite beyond them. 

There are others who adopt a third plan, and that is to pocure a simple 
pattern, to test it by experiment, and then use it as the basis for grading a full set 
of sizes. This requires some skill, and if done well it w ill produced most satisfactory 
results. 

The cutter has necessarily to decide which style of model he will use as his 
basis. There are some who would vote for tight-fitting jacket pattern for his 
purpose; but in view of the popularity of the semi-fitting style at the present time, 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 279 



there are those who prefer that fashion. Others again, use the bodice Hning as 
their basis, and adapt the various parts according to the requirements of the gar- 
ment and figure. Each plan has its advantages. Possibly, on the whole a semi-fitting 
model of a jacket is about the most useful type for the cutter of the present time, 
enabling him to cut the most fashionable style of pattern which will produce a 
smart, st\lish garment. 

The principles underlaying all the systems of Cutting now in use are 
grouped under two headings. 

1 . Proportionate measurement. 

2. Special measurement. 

The Proportionate measurement of cutting are those in which all points of 
the draft are obtaned by fixed proportions of the breast circumference. 

I he principle disadvantages of a Proportionate measure system are: 

1. That it does not provide for disproportion or variations in attitude, as 
erect, stooping, high or low shouldered, full or flat breasted, etc. 

2. 1 hat it does not provide for difference in shoulder or scye for figures of 
same breast measures. 

That it leaves too much to the judgement of the cutter and too much to 
chance. 

The Proportionate measurement b.isis of Cutting would only be reliable if 
womankind were all of strictly proportionate formation. In such a case divisions of 
the circimiference of breast would produce correct outlines. 

Special measures, they give to the cutter such confidence and assurance in 
their appLcation as cannot be otherwise obtained, and in all kinds of garments are 
productive of the best possible results. 

Spec.al measures help to one to judge customers form well. 






280 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



How to take Special Measurement 



1. Bust measure. Around the body under the arms, over the fullest part in front, and 
well up on shoulder blades in back. 

2. Waist measure. Around the body at smallest part in waist. 

3. Hips measure.— Around the body 6 inches below the waist line. 

4. Lower shoulder measure.— This measure is found by placing the end of the tape at 
the center about 4 inches down the back seam from the center back of neck, passing 
the other end over the shoulder and under the arm back to the starting point. 

5. Upper shoulder measure. This measure is found by placing the end of the tape at 
the center of back neck, passing the other end down the front of shoulder and under 
the arm back to the starting point. 

6. Back waist-length measure. From center back of neck down to the natural waist 
line, and continue down to the full-length desired. 

7. Front waist-length measure. From center back of neck to the waist of center 
of front. 

8. Bust depth measure. From center back of neck to the brow of bust. 

9. Side waist-length measure. — From center back of neck, over the shoulder to the waist 
line at side. 

For the sleeve length take the inside seam from the arm pit to the wrist. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



281 



How to take Special Measurement 




282 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Systematic Outline 

By Special Measurement 
Measurement 



Bust 40 inches. 

Waist 26 inches. 

Hips 4 1 inches. 

Lower shoulder 25 inches. 

Upper shoulder 25''4 inches. 



Back waist-length 1 5 ' 2 inches. 
Front waist-length 23' 2 inches. 
Bust depth 1 5 inches. 
Side w^aist length 2 1 inches. 
Sleeve length 1 8 inches. 



Scale is the half Lower shoulder measure, in this case 12/0 inches. 

Half Scale is 6^4 
One-Quarter Scale is 3',x 

Excess is the difference between the Lower — and Upper shoulder measures, in 
case ' iJ inch. 

To Draft 



thi 



A. Draw a straight line as from A to D. 

B from A is the half Scale plus % inch plus 
half Excess, in this case 6' 4 plus '^ plus 
's together 7*4 inches. 

C from A is the back waist-length measure, 
in this case 153^ inches. 

D from C is 6 inches. 

Square out from A for the top line, from 
B for the Bust line, from C for the waist 
line and from D for the hip line as rep- 
resented. 

E from B is the half Bust measure plus 4 
inches, in this case 24 inches. 

F from B is the Scale less ' 2 inch, in this 
case 12 inches. 

G from F is the half Scale plus one-quarter 
Scale less 3;'s inches, in this case 6/4 plus 
3/s is 9% less 3 '.^ is G from F 6 inches. 

H from B is the half Scale less J4 inch, in 
this case 6 inches. 

I from A is 5 '4 inches. 

Square out from E, F, G and I as rep- 
resented. 

J from I is 2*4 inches. 

K from A is one-quarter Scale less s inch, 
in this case 3 inches. 

Square out from K as represented. 



L is located by drawing a line from A to J. 

M from H is 2 inches. 

Square out from M as represented. 

N from M is half Scale plus 's inch, in 
this case 6 ' s inches. 

O from N is ' j inch on line drawn from L 
throguh N. 

P is the center betw^een M and N. ' 

Q from I is '4 inch. 

R is located by drawing a line from A 
through Q. 

S from G is one-quarter Scale plus ' s inch, 
in this case 3 '4 inches. 

Square out from S as represented. 

T from S is half Scale plus I '-4 inches, in 
this case 8 inches- 

U from R is /'^ inch more than the dis- 
tance from L to O on line draw^n from R 
through T. Cut off the point at R of /.s 
inch as represented. 

V from S is 2 inches. 
W from R is 2 inches. 

Square out from W as represented. 
X from W is one-quarter scale plus 's inch, 
in this case 3 '4 inches. 

Y is locared by a line squared out from E. 
Z is located by a line squared out from F 



NOTICE 

In all Diagrams — disigned in this Systematic Outline — are s inch 
seams allowed. 

In all Diagrams — designed in this Systematic outline — is the half waist 
measure 7 inches less than the half Bust measure. (See Waist Suppression on 
page 20.) 

In all Diagrams — designed in this Systematic Outline — is the half hip 
measure ' 1 inch more than the half Bust measure. (See Hip Development on 
page 20.) 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



283 



Systematic Outline 

By SpecieJ Measurement 




# 



Y 



-ih 



% 



284 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Tight-Fitting French Seam 

By Special Measurement 



First lay up all points to your measure 
as described in Systematic Outline for 
Special Measurement (Page 282), then 
continue as follows : 

1 from R is the Side waist-length measure 
plus I '4 inches and less the width of the 
back neck as from A to L, in this case 
21 plus \% is 22;'4 less 3J4 is 1 from R 
19/'2 inches. 

2 from R is the Front length-measure plus 
% inch and less the width of the back 
neck as from A to L, in this case 23' 2 
plus J'8 is 24-^s less 3 '4, is 2 from R 
2 i 3<s inches. 

Draw lines from C to I and from 1 
through 2 for the fashionable waist line 
as represented. 

3 from C is 2 inches. 

4 from D is I % inches. 

5 from O is % inch. 

6 from P is % inch. 

Draw a line from 5 to 6. 

7 is the half-way between 5 and L, or make 
the width to style or taste. 

8 from 3 is 1 inch less than A to K. 

9 is located by drawing a line from 7 to 8 
as represented. 

10 from 4 is % inch more than 3 to 8. 

11 from 8 is % inch. 

12 from 10 is 1 inch. 

13 from F is J4. inch. 

14 from 1 is % inch. 

15 is located by drawing a line from 13 
through I 4. 

16 is the half-way between 9 and H. 

1 7 is the half-way between 1 I and 1 4. 

18 is located by drawing a line from 16 
through I 7. 

19 from 17 is '^ inch. 

20 from 17 is j/2 inch. 

21 from 18 is 1 inch. 

22 from 18 is 1 inch, 

23 from 15 is /i inch. 



24 from 7 is 'js inch, and is ji inch higher 
from the line L-5. 

25 from 5 is % inch, and is from 6 the 
same length as O from P. 

26 from 1 6 is 1 inch. 

27 from 26 is % inch for seam. 

Finish the back and side gores as rep- 
resented. 

28 from l4 is '4 inch, and is from 13 the 
same length as 14 from 13. 

29 from 15 is iVo inches. 

30 from 2 is I'l inches. 

31 is located by drawing a line from E 
through 30. 

32 from 31 is 's inch. 

33 from R is the Bust depth measure plus 
1 '4 inches and less the width of the back 
neck as from A to L, in this case 15 plus 
1 V4 is 16^4 less .V4, is point 33 from R 
13 inche?. 

34 from 33 is 2 inches on line drawn from 
33 parallel with line 1-2. 

35 is located by drawing a line from 34 
parallel with line E - 30. 

36 from 35 is 1 /4 inches. 

37 from 35 is 2;H inches. 

38 from 34 is the same length as 36 from 
34. 

39 is located by drawing a line from 36 
parallel with line E-31. 

40 from 39 is 4 '4 inches. 

41 from R is the same width as L to 7. 

Draw a line from 41 to 34. 

42 from 41 is '4 inch for seams. 

Draw a line from 42 parallel with line 
41-34. 

43 from 14 is the same length as 29 from 
28. 

44 from 40 is 1 y^ inches. 

45 from 36 is the same length as 44 from 
38. 

Finish the front as represented. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



285 



Tight-Fitting French Seam 

By Special Measurement 




286 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Semi-Fitting with Dart in Front 

By Special Measurement 



First lay up all points to your measure as described in Systematic Outline for Special 
Measurement (Page 282), then continue as follows: 

1 from R is the Side waist-length measure plus I /4 inches and less the width of the back 
neck as from A to L, in this case 21 plus \'}4 is 22,4 less 334 is I from R 19'^ inches. 

2 from R is the Front length-measure plus >« inch and less the width of the back neck 
as from A to L, in this case 23 '^ plus '^ is 24% less 3/^. is 2 from R 2 1 ' x inches. 

Draw^ lines from C to I and from I through 2 for the fashionable waist line as 
represented. 

3 from C is I /'z inches. 

4 from 3 is /4 inch. 

5 from D is 1 inch. 

6 from P is '4 inch. 

7 from H is /'4 inch. 

8 from 4 is I inch more than the distance from A to K. 

9 from 5 is '4 inch more than the distance from 4 to 8. 

Finish the back as represented. 

10 from 8 is /4 inch. 

1 1 from 9 is i J/2 inchees. 

12 from 6 is }4 inch. 

13 from F is % inch. 

14 from 1 is ''4 inch. 

15 is located by drawing a line from 13 through 14. 

16 from 14 is /<> inch. 

Finish the side gore as represented. 

17 from 1 is ' 2 inch, and is from F the same length as 16 from 13. 

18 from 1 5 is 1 inch. 

19 from 2 is 2 inches. 

Draw line from E through 19. 

20 from R is the Bust depth measure plus I 34 inches and less the width of the back 
neck as from A to L, in this case 15 plus 134 is 16^4 less 3 34, is point 20 from R 
13 inches. 

21 from 20 is 13'^ inches on line drawn parallel with line E-19. 

22 is located by drawing a line from 21 parallel with line E-19. 

23 is located by drawing a line from 21 parallel with line E-19. 

24 from 22 is J/t. inch. 

25 from 24 is 3 inches. 

26 from 21 is the same length as 24 from 21. 

27 from 23 is % inch. 

28 from 27 is 3/4 inches. 

Finish the front as represented. 

29 from 1 6 is the same length as 1 8 from I 7. 

30 from 28 is I '4 inches. 

31 from 24 is the same length as 30 from 26. 

Finish the bottom as represented. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



287 



Semi-Fitting with Dart in Front 

By Special Measurement 




288 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Systematic Outline 

By Special Measurement 

No Seam Allowances 
Measurement 



Bust 40 inches. 

Waist 26 inches. 

Hips 4 1 inches. 

Lower shoulder 25 inches. 

Upper shoulder 25*4 inches. 



Back waist-length 1 5 ' j inches. 
Front waist-length 23*2 inches. 
Bust depth 1 5 inches. 
Side waist length 2 1 inches. 
Sleeve length 1 8 inches. 



Scale is the half Low^er shoulder measure, in this case 12' o 

Half Scale is 6/^ 
One-Quarter Scale is 3}/g 



Excess is the 
case "s 



difference between the Low^er 
inch. 



- and Upper shoulder measures, in this 



To Draft 



A. Draw a straight line as from A to W. 
B from A is Sj-o inches on line squared up 

from A. 
C from B is 2 '4 inches on line squared out 

from B. 

Draw a line from A to C. 
D from A is the half Scale plus •'is inch 

plus half Excess, in this case 6J4 plus 'k 

plus /s is ZH inches. 

Square out line from D as represented. 
E from D is the Scale less ' ^ inch, in this 

case 1 2 inches. 
F from D is the half Scale plus I inch, in 

this case 6/4 plus I is 7J4 inches. 
G from E is one-quarter Scale less ^2 inch, 

in this case 3',s less Jo is 2/.s inches. 
H from D is the half Bust measure plus 1 

inch, in this case 20 plus I is 2 1 inches. 
I from E is I j/2 inches. 

Square lines from F, 1, E, G and H as 

represented. 
J from F is half Scale plus ' 2 inch, in this 

case 6)4 plus J2 's 6^4 inches. 
K from A is one-quarter Scale less ' 2 inch, 

in this case 3',s less ''2 is 2 's inches. 
L from J is ' 2 inch on line drawn from K 

through J. 



M is the center between J and F. 

Draw a line from L to M. 
N from G is half Scale plus 2's inches plus 

half Excess, in this case 6*4 plus 2'\ plus 

% is 934 inches. 
O from E is half Scale plus I's inches, in 

this case 6'4 plus l,',s is 7% inches. 
P from N is the same length as L from K 

on line drawn from N through O. 
Q from E is 2 inches. 

Draw a line from P to Q. 
R from N one-quarter Scale, in this case 
3',s inches on line squared out from N. 

Draw a line from R to H. 
S from R is 2 ^-'4 inches. 
T from A is the Back waist-length measure, 

in this case 15*2 inches. 
U from N is the Side waist-length measure 

less the back neck as from A to K. 

V from N is the Front waist-length measure 
less the back neck as from A to K. 

Z from N is the Bust depth measure less 
the back neck as from A to K. 
Draw lines from T to U and from U to V. 

Y and X are located by a line squared up 
from W. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



289 



Systematic Outline 

By Special Measurement 




290 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Tight-Fitting Jacket 

By Special Measure System 
Seams are not allowed 



First lay up all points to your measure 
as described in Systematic Outline (page 
288), then continue as follows: 

1 from T is 2 inches. 

2 from W is I '4 inches. 

3 from 1 is I inch less than K from A. 

4 is located by drawing a curved line from 
M to 3 as represented. 

5 from 2 is ^,'4 inch more than 3 from 1 . 

Finish the back as represented. 

6 from 3 is '4 inch. 

7 from 5 is 1 inch. 

8 is the center between 1 and 4. 

9 is the center between U and 6. 

10 is located by drawing a line from 8 
through 9. 

1 1 from 9 is '2 inch. 

12 from 9 is ' ■_; inch. 

13 is located by drawing a line from 12 
through 8. 

14 from 10 is I inch. 

15 from 1 is I inch. 

16 from X is ,'2 inch. 

Finish both side gores as represented. 

1 7 from U is '4 inch and is from I the 
same length as U from I. 

18 from X is 1/2 inches. 

19 from V is I '4 inches. 

20 is located by drawing a line from H 
through 19. 

21 from Z is '4 inch less than K from A. 

22 is located by drawing a line from 2 1 
parallel with line H-20. 

23 is located by drawmg a line from 21 
through 22. 

Measure up the waist line from I to 3 
and continue 6 to 1 2, 1 1 to U and I 7 
to 19; the total is in this case I 7'4 inches. 
The half of the actual waist measure is in 
this case 13 inches; there is a surplus 4' 4 
inches, which amount is to be taken out 
in dart. 

24 from 22 is one-third of the Dart, in this 
case I '2 inches. 

25 from 23 is the same as 24 from 22. 

26 from 24 is the Dart, in this case 4*4 
inches. 

27 is located by drawing a line from 2 1 
through 26 and is from 2 1 the same 
length as 24 from 2 I . 

28 from 25 is '4 inch more than 26 from 24. 

Measure up the hip line from 2 to 5 



and continue 7 to 14, 1 5 to 1 6, 18 to 
28 and 25 to 20. The difference between 
this total and the half of the actual hips 
measure is to be added to by larger size 
hips and to be taken off by smaller size 
hips equally divided at points 16, 18, 14, 
15 and 7. 

29 from 20 is 's inch. 

Finish the front as represented. 

30 from A is the full length desired. 

31 is located by a line squared out from 30. 

32 is located by drawing a line from 1 
through 2. 

33 is located by drawing a line from the 
middle of 3-6 through 5. 

34 is located by drawing a line from the 
middle of 3-6 through 7 and is the same 
length from 6 as 33 from 3. 

35 is located by drawing a line from 9 
through 14. 

36 is located by drawing a line from 9 
through 15, and is from 11 the same 
length as 35 from 12. 

37 is located by drawing a line from U 
through 18. 

38 is located by drawing a line from )4 
inch outside from U through 16, and is 
from U the same length as 37 from 1 7. 

39 is located by drawing a line from 27 
through 28 and is 1 /4 inches below 31. 

40 is located by a line drawn from 24 
through 25. and is from 24 the same 
length as 39 from 27. 

Allow for single breasted button stand 
1 ' 2 inches. 

The Collar and Lapel 

41 from N is 1 inch. 

42 is the length of the crease line desired. 

Draw a line from 42 through 41 and 
longer. 

43 from N is '4 inch. 

44 from 43 is 1 '4 inches more than K from 
A on line drawn from 43 parallel with 
line 42-41-45. 

45 is located by a line squared up from 44. 

46 is located by a line squared out from 
44 and make the width of collar as desired. 

47 from 46 is about ' 2 inch for the spring 
of collar. 

Finish the draft as represented. 
No seams or turnings - in allowed for 
on this draft. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



291 



Tight-Fitting Jacket 

By Special Measure System 
Seams are not allowed 




292 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Taking Special Measurement 

For Direct Short Measure System 

(How to apply this measurement to the System see pages 308 and 309.) 




Measurement 

For Body 

2-6-2 Arond bust 
3-9-3 Around waist 
12-12 Around hips 
1-2 Back scye depth 
1-3 Back waist length 
2-5-6 Over shoulder 
1-6 Front shoulder 
1-7 Front waist length 
1-8 Bust depth 
1-9 Side waist length 
11-11 Across chest 
6-6 Across bust 
6- 1 Sleeve length 

For Skirt 

3-9-3 Arond waist 
12-12 Around hips 
7-1 3 Front length 
9-14 Side length 
9- 1 5 Back length 



PART EIGHT 



RIDING AND SPORTING GARMENTS 



294 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Riding Skirts 




In the middle of the last century they were simply several 
widths of material plaited into the waist and cut long enough 
to flow gracefully to at least 12 inches below the feet of the 
wearer. These, although graceful, were not practical, and, from 
the standpoint of safety, it was found a veritable death-trap 
when the lady had the misfortune to be thrown from her horse; 
the surplus material which formed the graceful folds had a 
knock of twisting themselves round the pommel of the saddle, 
and the lady would be dragged along the ground till she was 
kicked to death. 

Then came a revolution, and trains were made shorter 
and shorter, and closer and closer, till they arrived at what was 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 295 



thought to be the utmost limit of safety, when they were quite 
close-fitting over the seat, and long enough to almost cover the 
foot, the toe just showing out from the hem of the train. 

Experience in the hunting-field suggested improvements 
on these ; ladies cut out large holes from the underpart of the 
train for additional safety, whilst others cleared the whole of 
the underpart from the seat downwards away, and just left 
enough to folds over the leg at either side, and so still further 
simplified it. 

The most important item in a riding skirt is a clean 
saddle, that is, there must be no wrinkels or creases under the 
wearer's seat or legs and more particularly about the spot where 
the knees come in contact with the pommel. 

Such superflous material means pain to the rider and 
soreness for some time after a ride, and so such superfluity 
must be avoided. 

The question is, if these things should be present, how 
can we locate where the fulness starts and finishes? Well, this 
is how to do it. 

Having placed the skirt on the custumer and the cusomer 
on the horse, and furthermore, made sure that the skirt is in 
the right position, proceed by fittmg the upper side. 

When this has been accomplished, rip up the back seam 
and the front seam from foot to knee, and throw the front 
clean over the horse, thus exposing the wearer. Mention, of 
coarse, that you intand to do this, but first of all ask the young 
lady who put the skirt on whether the customer is properly 
clad. Once the under part is exposed on the interior then the 
rest is simple. 

Having fitted the underside replace the topside and care- 
fully readjust. 



296 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Side Saddle Safety Riding Skirt 

Front 

These diagrams represent a model of a side saddle safety riding skirt, which 
reproduced by the inch tape, will fit a lady with 26 inches waist, 43 inches hips. 
20/2 inches side to knee and 1 3 inches rise measurement. 

Seams are not allowed. 




36 r 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



297 



Side Saddle Safety Riding Skirt 



Back 



4t 7t 11 17 lai 22 J 




In this particular skirt there is a hole for the pommels and is made like a 
placquette of a skirt with press studs. 

If the rider is thrown, these studs come into action and prevent the rider 
being hung up on the pommel. 



298 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Apron Riding Skirts 



To Draft 



This diagram represents a model of an 
Apron Riding Skirt, which reproduced by 
the inch tape, will fit a lady 24 waist, 40 
seat. Seam allawances of one-quarter of an 
inch are allowed. 

Front 

A. Draw a line as from A to I . 

B from A is J/'o inches. 

C from A is 9 inches. 

D from A is I I inches. 

E from A is 1 5 inches. 

F from A is 1 6 inches. 

G from A is 23 inches. 

H from A is 34 incfles. 

I from A is 5 1 inches. 

Square out lines from A, B, D, F, and 
H as represented. 
J from A is 2 1 W_; inches. 
K from A is 30 inches. 
L from B is 8 inches. 
M from B is 30 inches. 
N from D is 1 inches. 
O from D is 28 inches. 
P from F is 5 inches. 
Q from F is 5 '4 inches. 
R from F is 28 inches. 
S from F is 34 inches. 
T from H is 50 inches. 
U from H is I inch. 

Draw lines from J to L and K to M. 

1 is the center of J-L, 

2 from 1 is H4 inches. 

3 is the center of K-M. 

4 from 3 is 2 inches. 

5 is located by drawing a line from D to 
R. 

6 from 5 is 1 3 inches.. 

Take out 1 inch between 5 and 6 as 
represented. 

Draw lines from N to Q. from T to I 
and from T through S as represented. 



7 is the center of N-Q. 

8 from 7 is 1 }4 inches. 

9 is the center of T-I. 

10 from 9 is 7 inches. 

1 1 from S is 1 inch. 

Finish the front part as represented. 

Back 

Square out lines from C, G and H as 
represented. 

V from C is 1 4 inches. 
W from G is 20 inches. 
X from H is 3! 2 inches. 

Y from H is 1 6 inches. 

Continue the line T-I as represented. 
Z from I is 14 inches. 

Connect V-W and W-Z. 

12 from C is 8 inches. Connect E-12. 

13 from E is 3 inches. 

14 from 13 is 2J-2 inches. 

15 from 14 is 4 inches. 

16 from C is I 1 inches. 

17 from G is 10' ^ inches. 

Connect 16-17. 

18 from I 3 is 6 inches, 

19 from 1 6 is 6 inches. 

Finish waist line as represented. 

20 is the center of V-W. 

21 fom 20 is 1/4 inches. 

22 from 1 is }/) inch. 

Finish the back part as represented. 

23 is the place for two holes. 

24 is the place for inside thigh fastening. 

25 is the inside elastic loop. 

26 is a tab. 

27 is double cloth for knee. 

28 is pocket. 

29 is inside ela.stic loop. 

30 is a button. 

31 is the edge of lining shown by dash-line. 
23 is the position is saddle. 



JTHE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



299 



Apron Riding Skirt 




300 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Hints on Making Apron Riding Skirts 



One of the most convenient and becoming of the safety riding skirts is the 
Apron Riding Skirt. One position of it is cut very much on the trouser principle, 
and, altogether, it is easy to make, comfortable for wear, as well as safe in case 
of accident. 

The shaded portion at 27 is the position of knee when the apron is finished. 
The main thing is to secure plenty of room for the knee when the wearer is in 
the saddle, and to keep the lap portion short and hollow. For that reason a shaped 
seam is put from 5 through 6 to R. 

The Figure 11 joins point O, and you will find 11 somewhat longer than 
the other half of cut, and both have slightly round edges. These two edges, when 
sewn together, produce a condiserable cavity into which the knee fits. The fulness 
produced by extra length of side 11 must be sewn on and afterwards pressed back 
from outer edge, and so help to give shape there. The large vees on underside will 
be sewn with tapering effect towards 17, and the surplus material caused by the 
closing up of these cuts be distributed by the iron downwards over line 17. 

The lines V-W and J-L are the seat-seam when the apron is on, and that 
from I to E is the side seam. These seams will be sewn in the ordinary manner 
and pressed open, the opened seam being either stitched down by machine or 
felled down raw edge so far as the side seam is concerned. As a rule the seat 
portion is lined to just cover the seam with the same piece of material which goes 
through the front, as per dot and dash line 31, to bottom behind T. That lining 
must, of course, have all the shape given it that the cloth has had at 5-b, 6-1 1-R, 
and the piece of cloth which joins the underside Z-W. 

The shaped part from J-K-4-M-0, is made up with two holes, and 
buttons put on a broad elastic tab, which is fixed firmly on a linen stay just below 
front waist on the lap portion. This tab is shown at 24, close to lap cut 5 : in 
consequence of this arrangement, where O joins 11 and where W joins J, firm 
linen stays must be placed, and those points must be well tacked through the linen, 
so fhat the strain put upon those positions shall not split the material. 

The placquet-hole is merely cut down and piped with a piece of the same 
material, or bound in with a strip of lining. A facing can be put on the underside 
of opening, and a pocket put in as in the ordinary skirt; the placquet finished in 
this way is shown at 28 on diagram. 

The edges 11-T and Y-Z are stayed with a strip of linen or staytape, then 
turned in and stitched. If you line the front of skirt the edge 11-T will be faced 
with the lining before you stitch the edge down; if not, both can be felled raw 
edge; if the cloth of apron is of melton or other firm edge material. 



JTHE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



301 



^Vhen the flap portion L - J - O is fa'itened up on 24, the leg of the rider 
will be through the circle so formed, and so the apron fits cleanly and firmly round 
the leg, wheter the wearer be on horseback or on foot, just as we see it fitting 
round the knee on inset diagram point 32. You will notice on that diagram two 
loops of different shape ; these appear to be on the outside of skirt in that diagram 
but such is not the case; they are shown there with a view of aiding you to 
comprehend the.r position whe:i the wearer is in the saddle. The true position of 
those loops is seen at 29 at 25 of the large diagram; they are made of % inch 
or 1 inch elastic; that at 29 is fastened to a linen stay placed underneath the front 
lining and caught in the outer edge, and felled round its inner edge to skirt. 29 is 
about 8 inches long, fastened at both ends, and left somewhat loose in canter, so 
that the foot of rider can easily fit into it, and, as you will note, is placed with its 
bottom and about two-thirds the distance down from 11 to T, that is to say, 
somewhere about one-third the length of front seam up from the bottom of skirt! 
25 is a double piece of sim.lar clastic fastened to a linen .stay felled on the under 
side; the double end of loop reaches nearly to the bottom, say wi-hin ,< or at 
most 4 inches of bottom; the looped portion should be about 6 or 7 inches long, 
and be strongly secured to skirt; into these loops the feet of the rider can be 
thrust at will, and be easily removed in case of necessity-. 

About 29 you notice a cloth tab, or you may put an elasttic tab there, and, 
on the whole, we would advise that as the better plan. Well this tab is fitted there 
with the object of enabling the wearer of the apron when ofl the horse to fasten 
that part of apron up at back of waist, where a button should be placed at the end 
of waist euts ; this has the effect of hiding the upper parts of legs when the wearer 
is walking. While on the horse the skirt or apron appears as we show it at small 
diagram, only the single portion comes against the side of the horse. 

The waust should be finished thinly, a;id with a neath ba.id if band be 

put at all — or the top of skirt turned in a.id stitched rou.id. 




302 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Cutting Riding Skirts by Model Patterns 



In the cutting of riding skirts it is nec- 
essary to edjust the pattern to the length, the 
size of waist, and the size of the seat. 

In altering the length we have to bear 
in mind that this will also effect the distance 
from the waist to the knee that goes over 
the pommel, so that the length must be 
increased half above the knee and half below. 

For instance, suppose the length of the 
skirt has to be increased 2 inches, we open 
out the pattern at M M that amount, but 
we also open it out at P P half that quantity, 
or 1 inch. For the underside we open it 
out 1 inch at N and 1 inch at O; this will 
produce the proper adjustment at the side 
seam and also at the seat-seam, K L. 



In making corrections for the size of 
waist we want to bear in mind the adjust- 
ment necessary to the seat, for the two may 
go together, though this dos not necessarily 
follow, it is best to edjust the size of the 
seat first, and this is done equally at the four 
seams K, I, G, F. This being done, the 
waist comes last, and the variations necessary 
are made as per dot and dash line, always 
endeavoring to take out larger vees where 
there is extra prominence to provide for, and 
vice ver.-a. 

The outline used on this diagram is of 
an apron riding skirt that is both popular 
and successful. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



303 



Cutting Riding Skirts by Model Patterns 




304 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Ride Astride Skirt 



This diagram will produce a pattern to 
fit a lady measuring 24 inches waist, 40 
inches hips, 39 inches side length. 

Variations may be made as follows : 

In length add to or take off from the 
bottom. 

In size of waist, alter the size of the 
V-s at the waist, enlarging or reducing them 
as the waist is smaller or larger. 

In the size of hips, alter at sideseam. 
In making variations for the side of hips, 
be careful to make the size of waist correct. 

Instruction for Drafting 
Backpart 

Draw^ a straight line from A to B and 
measure 4 1 ,'4 inches. Square line from A 
to K and measure from A to C \, to D 
3I/4, to E 4%, to F 6J/2. to G 8, to H 10^ 
to 1 1 3, to J 20/8, to K Ib'ji^ inches. 

Square down from C, D, E, F, G, H, I, 
J and K. 
L from A is 7' 2 inches. 
M from C is 2}/-2 inches. 
N from D is 2 ' y inches. 
O from E is I j's inches. 
P from E is 5 '4 inches. 
Q from F is 1'4 inches. 
R from G is ,' 8 inch, 
S from G is 4's! inches. 



T from I is 5' 2 inches. 
U from J is 1 5 inches. 
V from K is 36'''s inches. 

Connect points as represented and finish 
the backpart. 

Frontpart 

Draw^ a stright line from A to B and 
measnre 4 1 ■'4 inches. Square line from A 
to 7 and measure from A to 1 /-.s, to 
2 5:^8. to 3 \5%, to 4 20'2. to 5 23^. 
to 6 30 /^, to 7 3t) /'4 inches. Square down 
from points 1,2, 3, 4, 5, 6 and 7. 
L from A is 7' 2 inches. 

8 from I is 2 '8 inches. 

9 from 2 is 1^8 inches. 

10 from 3 is 3 '8 inches. 

1 1 from 3 is I 7;,' 8 inches. 

12 from 4 is 3 '8 inches. 

13 from 5 is 5 inches. 

14 fiom 6 is 15;' 8 inches. 

15 from 7 is 34/4 inches. 

Connect points as represented and finish 
the frontpart. 
W-X-Y-Z is an 8 inch square gusset. 

This ride astride skirt is cut in five 
parts : two fronts, two backs, and an 8 inch 
square gusset. Opening is arranged at left 
side seam and in this is a pocket inserted. 

One-Quarter inch seam are allowed. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



305 



Ride Astride Skirt 




306 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Making Ride Astride Skirts 



In cutting from the pattern, a reduced model of which is here placed before the reader, 
you will make what variations in measurement are necessary, and leave on what inlays will be 
useful in case extra width or length is required here or there; above all, be sure to locate all 
balance-marks, either by nicks, or by placing mark-threads at various pjints instead. Perhaps of 
more importance than the balance-marks are those lines indicated by A A and BB in Diagram 1. 
This diagram represents the front and back pieces, and here we have illustrated the marking of 
inlays and balance-marks; and, as just mentioned, the lines AA and BB are two highly important 
points for consideration: the former defines the amount of material or spring which is allowed 
in order to cause the skirt, when the wearer is off the horse, to fall in graceful folds or plaits 
and which, during the act of riding, affords sufficient room to permit of ease or comfort without 
in any way marring the freedom of action which is so essential to the rider while on horseback. 

The line of mark-threads, BB, on the front piece, defines the front of skirt when the 
rider is astride the horse, and follows the lap-cut, C, through the knee point, DD, right to bottom. 

We cannot lay too much stress on the importance of care in putting the pieces together, 
and in sewing the seams; unless these are properly put together you will experience all kinds of 
trouble, and the wearer of the skirt will never experience that comfort she has a right to expect 
from the competent tailor. 

The fir.st two seams with which we slia'l deal are the lep-cut, C, and the knee-cut, DD. 
During the operations of baisting, seaming and pressing these cuts, it is essential you should bear 
in mind the reason they have been provided, and the special function they have to perform. 
The lap-cut in all styles of riding trains, is provided, in order to obviate a lot of loose material 
during the act of riding; therefore it requires to be kept short during the whole process of mak- 
ing up, and, in addition to that, it should be kept thin there. 

The kne-cut, on the other hand, is provtded with the double object of clearing away loose 
material at one place and to give length or looseness at another; thus the part of diagram 1 
marked with a cross, both front and back, is the leg-seam of this particular and when DD is 
sewn together, as we illustrate it at Diagram 2, a considerable prominence or length is given at 
the point indicated by the star. This will now form a receptacle for the knee, while the leg cut, 
C, just in the act of being sewn, will shorten and keep clean, or, in other words, free from loose- 
ness in that part of the front. 

The other waist-cuts are also put there with a double object: first, to afford spring o\'er 
the hip, and. secondly, to obviate the necessity for a lot of drawing in along the waist line. 

Reference of diagram 2 will show you how the sewing of the cut, C, has a tapering off 
at its lower end. In sewing the other waist cut this feature must be general, and when pressing 
the seams open be sure you disperse the loose material at bottom with the iron, so as to throw 
it downwards over the round of seat. 

Just above EE, on Diagram 1, you will notice balance-marks, which should be kept to- 
gether when the seams are being joined. F is the linen stay to strengthen placquethole. G being 
a facing of cloth which can either be left on when cutting out or sewn on afterwards. 

We come, now, to what is, perhaps, the most important item in the make-up of this style 
of skirt, viz., the insertion of the piece shown at Diagram 3. The object of this is to give spring 
at the crutch. You will notice a series of notches in the little square of cloth represented by 
Diagram ,^. On the front and back halves of skirt you will find notches to correspond, a single 
notch at seat-seam, a double one at front or lap-seam. Sew this piece in strongly and press the 
seam well open. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



307 



Diagrams 4 and 5 show these notches placed togethet, so that when ail four sides are 
joined we obtain a considerable amount of stride in consequence of its insertion. 

In the absence of a lining at crutch, the seams of the piece inserted ought to be felled 
down to keep them from rising or doubling over. 

Diagram 5 shows the front and back pieces joined together at what might be called the 
leg seam, L being the piece shown at diagram 3, sewn to one-half of the train H I shows the 
same piece sewn into the front of skirt only. 

At J and K, diagram 5, we have the notches of diagram 3 Htting e.xactly those on front 
and back pieces shown at Diagram 1 and 2. 

An important point for consideration is that show n at M Diagram 5 This gives the position 
of knee, and should be well worked out to give shape and freedom at the part, while for the 
purpose of strengthening, a piece of linen might be felled on there. 




The waist can be finished off with an ordinary band, or the top turned in a.id st.tclied; 
m either case, be sure not to make the waist measure over tight; a little freedom is preferable 
in these riding skirts. 

The placquet can be finished of? as in the case of the ordinary skirt; hooks and eyes or 
patent socket fasteners can be used. The turn~up at bottom should be well pressed, and any 
looseness of material there well shrunk before the upturn is fastened along its upper edge; whether 
this is done by felling the cloth or by machine stitching through the outs.de of skirt, 

If thought advisable, the front of skirt can be lined through, and the other seams felled 
down, or you may dispense with the linings and treat all seams by felling; indeed, where tne 
skirt is made from firm edge material this latter pla.i is the best. 



308 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Riding Coat 

By Direct Short Measure System 

No Seams allowed 
(How to take measurement to this system see page 292.) 

Measures 



Around Bust 40 inches. 
Around Waist 26 inches. 
Around Hips 4 1 inches. 
Back scye depth 7/4 inches. 
Back waist length 1 5 1 2 inches. 
Across back 1 4 inches. 
Over shoulder 16*4 inches. 

1 Draw a straight line from 1 to 5, 

2 from I is the back scye depth, in this case 
7/4 inches. 

3 from I is the back waist length, in this case 
I 334 inches. 

4 from 3 is 6 inches. 

5 from 2 is the full length, in this case 44 in. 

6 from 2 is the half across back, and '4 inch 
more, in this case 7/4 inches. 

7 from 2 is '4 full bust measure plus '2 inch, 
in this case 10' 2 inches. 

9 from 2 is the half around bust measure and 
I inch more, in this case 21 inches. 

8 from 9 is the average chest measure, consist- 
ing of half across Chest measure (7 '2) and 
halt across Bust measure (9' 2) added togeth- 
er and divided in half, in th.s case 8' 2 in. 

10 from 9 is one-quarter of line 2-9. 

1 1 is located by drawing a square line down 
from 7. 

12 from I is Vx full Bust measure, in this case 
2/2 inches. 

13 from 12 is '4 inch on line squared up 
from 12. 

14 from 6 is I inch less than the Back Scye- 
depth measure, in this case 6 '4 inches. 

15 from 1 4 is 3^2 inch. 

16 from 3 is I inch. 

17 is located by drawing a line from 1 to 16. 

18 is about the center of 13-1 5. 

19 from 8 IS the front should ar measure less 
the back neck from I to 12. 

20 from 8 is the over shoulder measure less 
the width from I 7 to 18. 

2 1 from 19 is '4 inch less than 13-15. 

22 from 8 is 1 '2 inches. 

23 from 19 is the same as 1-12. 

24 from 23 is the same as 1-12. 

25 from 19 is the front waist length measure 
less the back neck from 1 to 12. 

26 from 19 is the bust depth measure less the 
width of back neck from 1 to 12. 

27 from 19 is the side waist length measure 
less the back neck from 1 to 12. 

28 from 16 is one-sixth part of 7-1 7. 

29 from 15 is 2' 2 inches. 

30 is located by drawing a curved line from 
29 to 28 as represented. 

31 is located by dravifing a square line down 
from 28. 



Front shoulder 12/4 inches. 
Front waist length 23 Jo inches. 
Bust depth 1 5 inches. 
Side waist length 21*4 inches. 
Across Chest 1 5 inches. 
Across Bust 19 inches. 
Sleeve length 1 8 inches. 

32 from 28 is 1 inch. 

33 from 31 is '4 inch. 

34 from 27 is '4 inch. 

35 from 27 is '4 inch. 

36 is the half-way from 7 to 30. 

37 is the half-way from 32 to 34. 

38 is located by drawing a line from 36 
through 37. 

39 from 37 is '/i inch. 

40 from 37 is ''2 inch. 

41 from 38 is '4 inch. 

42 from 38 is '4 inch. 

43 from 1 1 is ' 2 inch. 

44 from 1 1 is 1 inch. 

45 from 25 is 2 inches. 

46 is located by drawing a line from 9 
through 45. 

47 from 26 is 1 ' 2 inches. 

48 is located by drawing a line from 47 par- 
allel with line 9-46. 

49 from 48 is one-third of the front waist sup- 
ression. 

50 from 49 is the front waist supression. 

51 from 47 is the same length as 47-49. 

52 is located by drawing a line from 49 par- 
allel with line 45-46. 

53 is located by drawing a line from 51 par- 
allel with line 7-1 1. 

54 is located by drawing a line from the 
middle 3-16 through point 4. 

55 is located by a square line down from 28. 

56 is located by drawing a line from the mid- 
dle of 28-32 through point 33 and is the 
same length from 32 as 28-55. 

57 is located by drawing a line from 37 
through 41. 

58 is located b> drawing a line from 37 through 
42 and is the same length from 39 as 40-5 7. 

59 is located by drawing a line from 27 
through 43. 

60 is located by drawing a line from 2 7 through 
44 and is the same length from 35 as 34-59. 

61 is located by connecting the line 51-53, 

62 from 61 is '4 inch. 

63 from 49 is the same length as 51-62 

64 from 19 is 1 inch. 

Add for single breasted button stand, and 
shape lapel and bottom as represented. 

From centre line to tabe make 6 inches 
more than from centre line to button, or 10 
inches as shown. 



Si^B^m£BSmj^ CUTTER 



309 



Riding Coat 



23 64 19 




310 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Riding Coat 

By Direct Short Measure System 

As inch Seams are allowed 
(How to take measurement to this system see page 292.) 



Measures 



Around Bust 40 inches. 
Around Waist 26 inches. 
Around Hips 4 1 inches. 
Back scye depth 7'4 inches. 
Back waist length 1 5 ' j inches. 
Across back 1 4 inches. 
Over shoulder 16*4 inches. 



Front shoulder 1 2 '4 inches. 
Front waist length 231 j inches. 
Bust depth 1 5 inches. 
Side w^aist length 21*4 inches. 
Across Chest 1 3 inches. 
Across Bust 19 inches. 
Sleeve length 1 8 inches. 



To Draft 



A, Square both w^ays from A as represented. 

B from A is the Scye depth measure, in this 
case 7/4 inches. 

C from A is the waist length measure, in this 
case 1 5 2 inches. 

D from C is 6 inches. 

Square out lines from B, C and D. 

E from B is the half Bust measure plus 4 
inches, in this case 24 inches, 

F is the center between B and E. 

G is the center between E and F. 

H from B is the acros back measure, in this 
case 7 inches. 

I from A is 5 ' _■ inches. 

J from I is 2 '4 inches on line squared out 
from 1. 

K from A is the half E-G, in this case 3 inches, 

L IS located by a line squared out from K. 

M from H is I inch. 

N from M is 's inch less than B from A on 
line squared out from M, in this case 6',x in. 

O from N is ' 2 inch on line drawn from L 
through N. 

P is the centtr of M-N, 

S from E is the average chest measure, consist- 
ing of half acro33 Chest ( 7 ' ^ ) and half across 
Bu»t (9' 2) added together and divided in 
half (8 '2) plus '4 inch, in this case 9/4 in. 

R is located by applying the Front shoulder 
measure from A to L and continued from 
S to R plus 1 '4 inches, in this case 12 '4 
plus 1 4 IS 13' 2 inches. 

T is located by applying the over shoulder 
measure from B to the middle of the back 
shoulder L-O and continued froin S to F 
plus 1 4 inches, in this case 17 2 inches, 

U from R is '^ longer than L-O on line drawn 
from R through 1 ; ihis \j inch is to be 
taken off at point R as represanted. 

V from S is 2 inches. 
\V from R is 2 inch( s. 

X from W is '4 inch more than K from A, in 
this case 3 '4 inches. 

Y is located by a line squared down from E. 
Z is located by a liee squared down from F. 

1 is located on line squared down from F by 
applying the Side vi^aist length measure 



A to L and continued from R to 1 plus 1 '4 
inches, in this case 22 '2 inches. 

2 is located on line squared down from E by 
aspplying the Front waist length measure 
from A to L and continued from R to 2 
plus I inch, in this case 24'2 inches. 

3 from C is I '2 inches. 

4 from D is 1 inch. 

5 from M is '4 inch. 

6 from 5 is •'4 inch. 

7 from 3 is 6 inches. 

8 IS located by shaping from 6 to 7. 

9 from 4 is 6 '4 inches. 
10 from 7 is /2 inch. 

1 1 from 9 is 2 inches. 

12 from F is '4 inch. 

13 from 1 is ' 2 inch. 

14 from 1 3 is 3 inches. 

15 from I 3 is ',s inch. 

16 from 13 is JU inch. 

17 from 2 is 2 inches. 

18 is located on line squared down from G 
by applying the Bust depth measure from 
A to L and continued from R to 18 plus 
1 '4 inches, in thi.s case 16*4 inches. 

19 from 18 is 1/2 inches. 

20 is located byline drawn from 19 parallel 
with line E- 1 7. 

ine drawn from 1 9 parallel 



inch, 
inch. 



21 IS located by 
with line E- 1 7 

22 from 20 is '/2 

23 from 2 1 is 'x 

24 from 22 ii 3 inches. 

25 from 19 ii the same length ai 22 from 1 9. 

26 from li is 3 inches. 

27 trom A is the full length desired. 

28 is located on line squrred out from 27. 

29 is located on line squared out from 2 7. 

30 from 29 is 1 '4 inches. 

31 from 21 is iKe same length as 30 from 15. 

32 is about 16 inches below the waist line. 

33 from 32 IS about 9 inches. 

Allow for a single-breasted button ftand 
stand 2 inches, and for a vent at the back 
about 2-3 inches, and finish the draft as 
represented. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 31 1 



Riding Coat 

By Direct Short Measure System 

/!s inch Seams are allowed 




312 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Pantaloon Skirt 



The Pantaloon or Harem Skirt consists 
of the divided hose and outside skirt. Both 
garments may be made from the same mate- 
rial, although the divided part is frequently 
made from a thinner stuff. 

The outside skirt is illustrated with 
diagram A is the nevv^est style of ladies 
outdoor walking skirt. 

Diagram of Divided Hose 
or Pantaloon 



Measures : 



Waist 24 inches 
Hips 40 inches 



Side length 42 inches 
Rise 1 2 inches 



Forepart 

1 Draw a straight line from 1 to 4. 

2 from 1 is the Hip line 6 inches always. 

3 from 1 is the Rise measure and 2 inches 
more, 1 4 inches. 

4 from I is the side length 42 inches. 

Square out lines from 1 , 2, 3, 4 as rep- 
resented. 

5 from I is /8 Hip measure less 1 2 inch, 
43-2 inches. 

6 from 2 is yg Hip measure, 5 inches. 

7 from 3 is % Hip measure, 5 inches. 

Connect points 5-6-7. 

8 from 7 is the half distance of 3 - 7 and 
/<> inch more, 3 inches. 

9 is located by squaring down from 8. 

10 from 6 is J4 Hip measure, 10 inches. 

1 1 from 9 is ''2 Hip measure, 20 inches. 

12 is located by drawing a line from 1 I 
through 1 0. 



5-12 should be '4 w^aist; take out the 
balance in V-s as represented. 

13 from 7 is half distance of 7-8, 1 }4 
inches. 

Shape fork as represented. 

14 from 12 is the side length 42 inches. 
Shape bottom as represented. 

Underpart 

15 from 10 is I'o inches, 

16 is located by drawing a line from 14 
through I 5 and is the same length as 14-12. 

1 7 from 5 is ' ■> inch. 

18 from 1 7 is 3 inches on line drawn from 
8 through I 7. 

17-18 should be 34 waist ; take out the 
balance in V-s as represented. 

19 from 8 is 4 inches. 
Connect points 9-19. 

9-19 is the same length as 9-8. 
Shape fork as represented. 
Allovkf for all seams. 

The Bearers 

The diagram marked B shows that the 
top of the forepart has been reduced 3 inches. 

The underpart, diagram C shows the 
bearer is 12*2 inches at the sideseam or 
opening and the depth at the fork is 3 inches. 

The bearer is shaped as shown on the 
diagram, and is sewn with sideseam of fore- 
part ; the underpart forms the fall at the 
back or, in other vk^ords, the backpart of a 
lady's divided skirt is the reverse of a man's 
pair of whole-fall trousers. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



313 



Pantaloon Skirt 




314 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Ladies Riding Breeches 

Measures 



Side length 40 inches, Rise (from waist to seat of chair) 12 inches, Leg length (difference 
between side length and ris8) 28 inches. Full length as desired, say 36 inches, Waist 24 
inches. Seat 42 inches, Knee 1 5 inches. Small knee 1 3 inches. Calf 1 5 inches. Bottom (at 
the full length of breeches) 12 inches. 

(Measurement of Knee, Small knee. Calf and Bottom are taken by the lady herself.) 



To Draft 



Forepart 



this 



from C. 
in this 



A. Square both ways from A as represented. 
B from A is the Rise measure, in this case 

1 2 inches. 
Square out from B as represented. 
C from B is 14. full seat measure, ii 

case 10' 2 inches. 
D from B is ' ;{ full seat measure plu 

inch, in this case 14'4 inches. 
E from B is the center of B-D less ' s 

in this case 7 inches. 
F is located by a line squared up 
G from C is the same as E fror 

case 7 inches. 
H from C is the half of C-D plus '4 inch, 

in this case 2 ' s inches. 

Shape D-H-G as represented. 
Square both w^ays from E as represented. 
I from E is 3 inches. 
J from E is 9 inches. 
K from J is 1 inch on line squared out 

from J. 
L is located by drawing a line from 1 through 

K and longer. 
M from L is the half leg length measure, less 

I inch, in this case 1 3 inches. 
N from M IS 2' J inches. 
O from N is 3'^ inches. 
P from about the middle of the waist line 

A-F down is the full length desired plus 

I inch, in this case 37 inches. 
Q from M is '4 Knee measure, in this case 

3*4 inches. 
R from N is '4 Small knee mea.sure, in this 

case 3'4 inches. 



S from O is ' 
3 '4 inches. 

T from P is ' 
3 inches. 

U from M is 



Calf measure, in this case 
Bottom measure, in this case 



Kne 



less 



rneasure 
inches, in this case 2 inches. 

V from P is 4 Bottom measure 
inches, in this case 1 '4 inches. 

W is located by drawing a line from U to V. 
X is located by drawing a line from U to V. 

Y is the center on line drawn from U to B. 
Z from Y is 1 inch. 

1 from B is 1 2 inch. 

2 from A is Vi:.' of the full waist measure, 
in this case 2 inches. 

3 from F is 'K inch. 



Draw a line from 2 to 3. 

4 from 3 is ' s full waist measure plus 34 
inch, in this case 3'4 inches. 

5 from 2 is ' s full waist masure plus 3<t 
inch, in this case 3' 4 inches. 

Form the dart about 4 inches deep. 
Finish the forepart as represented. 

Undsrpart 

6 from G is I inch. 

Draw a line from D through 6 and longer. 
Sweep out from 2 pivoting at U. 

7 is located be a line squared out from line 
D-6 to a point on line sweeed from point 
2, w^here it meets point 8. 

8 from 7 is 1 inch more, than 3 from 2, 
in this case 9/4 inches. 

9 from P is I inch. 

10 is located by a line squared out from 9. 

1 1 is located by a line squared out from 9. 

12 from D is 1 '4 inches. 

13 from 1 2 is /4 inch. 

14 from Q is 'i^ inch. 

15 from R is '/i inch. 

16 from R is '2 inch. 

17 from 10 is 1 '4 inches. 

18 from 1 is 2'-o inches. 

19 is located by measuring the knee meas- 
ure plus 1 inch from Q to U and 1 4 to 

19, in this case 16 inches. 

20 IS located by measuring the small knee 
mesure plus 1 inch from R to W and i 5 
to 20, in this case 14 inches. 

21 is located by measuring the Calf meas- 
ure plus I inch from S to X and 1 6 to 
2 1 , in this case 16 inches. 

22 is located by measuring the bottom 
measure plus 3 inches from T to V and 
17 to 22, in this case 15 inches. 

23 from 9 is 1 inch. 

24 from 9 is 1 inch. 

25 from N is IJ/4 inches. 

26 from 19 is 1 inch. 

27 from 8 is ' s full w^aist measure plus /i 
inch, in this case 3'4 inches. 

28 from 7 is /s full waist measure plus % 
inch, in this case 3 '4 inches. 

29 from 7 is !4 inch. 

Allow for button stand 1 ' 2 inches out- 
side of 26-22. 

Finish the underpart as represented. 
One-Quarter inch seams are allowed. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



315 



Ladies Riding Breeches 







316 



THE AM ERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Leggings 




Measurement: Small knee 13 mches, Calf 15 inches, Length 
(No seams or turnings are allowed.) 
A. Square both ways from A as represnted. 
B from A is the length, in this case 13'/^ in. 

Line A-B is the front center of leg." 
C from A is 3 inches. 

Square out lines from B and C as rep- 
resented. 
D from A is the half Small knee measure, 

in this case 6'j inches. 
E from C is the half Calf measure, in this 

case 7' J inches. 
F is located by a line squared down from B. 
Curve back line D, E and 3^^ inch in- 
side F as represented. 
G from B is 1 J-o inches. 
H from G is 3 inches for turn over. 
I from A is 3 inches for turn over. 

Curve line of bottom from '4 inch inside 
F through G, towards H. 
Curve line 1-H. 

The button stand position is shown by 
a heavy line 1 inch inside the front center 
line A-B. 

Mark holes and buttons in the position 
shown on the diagram. 

Curve the top line in the direction suggested. 

Gaiters 

Measurement: fje.ght of Instep 3 '4 inches, Instep to Heel 6 inches. Heel to Front 8 inches. 
Length 14', inches, Small knee 12 inches. Calf 13 inches. Ankle 8 inches. 

(No seams, or turnings in, allowed.) 
A. Square both ways from A as represented. 
B from A is the Length measure, in thi; 

case 14' . inches. 
C from A is 3 inches. 
D from B is the Height of Instep measure 

in this case 3 '4 inches. 
E from D is I inch. 

Square out lines from B, C anj E as 
represented. 
F from A is the half Small knf 

in this case 6 inches. 
G from C is the half Calf measure 

case 6' J inches. 
H from E is the half Ankle measure, in this 

case 4 inches. 
I from D is the Instep to Heel measure, in 

this case 6 inches. 
J from I is the Heel to Front measure, in 

this case 8 inches. 
K from J is 1 inch on line squared out from J. 
Draw a line from K to D. 
Form outline as represented. 
L is the center of E-H. 

Square both ways from L as represented 
tor the edge of button stand. 



measure. 



thi 




THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 317 



PART NINE 



PRACTICAL TAILORING 



In dealing with the making up of ladies' coats we must take into consideration the fact 
that we have the prominence of the bust to clothe, the waist to define in varied degrees, and 
the hips to drape in graceful lines consonant with fashion's fleeting eccentricities, in order that 
3ur clients may be up to date. 

In order to obtain these results, special attention is given to the materials from which 
ladies' coats are made, and also the manipulation of seams a. id shoulders, in order that the 
anatomical requirements may be met. 

Begin the thread-marking inlays, position of pockets, burtons, etc. The hollow of sidebody 
and \xaist of forepart needs to be shrunk, a. id the i.ilays strained out at these parts in order that 
the seams may lay fair. Insert pockets, and baist front dart, keeping bala.ice marks fair. 

The canvas in shoulders is best put in on the b as, w ith a straight piece do.vn fronts 
fastened to dart-seam. The canvas should be shrunk before insertion. An extra piece of bias can- 
vas is put through shoulders, and should be padded on to under ca.ivai racher easy. This e.xtra 
canvas should on no account be stitched on by the machine. 

Both canvases through shoulders are slashed and vedged alternately at shoulder and scye, 
in order that a shapely shoulder may be obtained. \\'hen coat is of the seam over shoulder stjle, 
the under canvas is seamed through shoulders, which assists in the shap-ng of the shoulder, and 
it is arranged to be well on bias at the scye. A bridle is put across crease-row and kept fairly 
close. Pad lapels to a nice curl. Steady fronts with sta.\tape, which is neatly felled on. and press 
out carefully. 

Baist on facings, allowing plenty of length to linings, ease in shoulders, etc. 
The lining of tight-fitting coats require more length in waist on account of the suppression 
at that part, and the.i the prominence of hips 

Fasten facings to canvas up front dart and fell linings neatl" in. 

The waist of panel backs is best shrunk to clear auay the loose material formed at 
that part. 

The use of wadding should be avoided as much as possible on making ladies' coats; 
thinness and neatness are the prevailing features of ladies' tailoring. 



318 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



It is always well to take the under collar from the bias of the cloth, as it is much easier 
to stretch and shrink it than when cut in any other way. The under collar is the part in which 
the form has introduced. The top collar is best cut from the straight, with the center of the back 
placed on the double edge; this avoids a seam, and also provides the stripes running in an effect- 
ive manner. Once the form has been obtained in the under collar it is seldom very difficult to 
get the top collar to fit properly. 

In matter of putting on the collar depends very largely upon the style of cut; what is 
known as the crooked cut is very different from the straight cut of neck. For a straight cut a 
much longer collar is required, whilst for a crooked cut a shorter collar is repuired We will 
endeavor to describe the moderate cut. For a moderate cut shoulder the collar should be put on 
slightly short across the back neck, and it shoutd be fulled on in the hollow of the gorge, and 
kept slightly short just a front. This is a rule which is followed in all the best classes of trade. 

The sleeves require to be made up as thin as possible. When finished with a vent at the 
cuffs be sure of get run of cuff in harmony with hindarm-;eam. Baist a piece of fine canvas 
through cuff, turn over facing and serge along, and stitch cuff. 

The selection of buttons forms another interesting feature of ladies' coats, some stsles 
having large buttons, either plain or fancy makes. 

It is always best to study the purpose garment is intended for before selecting buttons; 
they are included in the ornamental features of ladies' coats, and must harmonise with the 
other parts. 

Ladies' coats repuire special care when pressing. Very little water must be used, for on 
no account must a ladies coat be "'boiled". It is best to use a piece of linen, and by applying 
a little moisture, and using a good hot iron; press edges from inside if possible, aid all other 
parts press thoroughly, then take a damp-rag well wrung out and remove gloss by lightly applying 
iron to rag. What is termed by tailors a "half-damp-rag", together with the use of a small iron, 
is the best plan to remove the gloss in the damping off of a ladies' oat. 

The linings of ladies' coats are mostly of fancy makes, or of silk, and \er\- often either 
white or some other delicate color. These lining must be touched a; little a^ possible with the 
iron for fear of soiling or deslroying their finish. 

When light linings are used (white silk, for instance) the coat is finished bar the insertion 
of the lining, being pressed and damped off. The lining is made up, baisted in, and lightly fel- 
led; by this means it is kept clean. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 319 



PART TEN 



FITTING 



Have a method for trjing on, just as you have a system for cutting. This is a most 
important feauture. 

There are different methods of tn,-ing on a garment, and the plan to follow must, to a 
large extent, be governed by ciscumstances. 

Let us describe the two most poutar: First, there is the skeleton baste, in which the 
various seams are basted and turned on one side; the canvas is put in, and usually one sleeve 
is basaed in. The under-arm-seam is basted on the outside to facilitate fitting and prevent drag. 

This snle of preparation is often adopt when two or three try-ons are employed. 

The other style is the forward baste. In this all the seams are sewn with the exception 
of the under-a m-seam, the sleeves, shoulders, and collar. The first row of sewing is put in the 
front edge, by which we mean the facing is seamed on; the linings are basted over, all manipula- 
tion is put in. This is the plan usually followed where only one try-on is employed, as it is 
certainly the best to give a good idea of fit and finish to both fitter and wearer. 

At this point we will utter a word of warning; Never attempt to baste garments up by 
machine, for there is very little time saved by so doing, and you cannot ensure the same accuracy 
a^ when basting by hand. 

The garment having been prepared for fitting, and examined to see if it is being made 
up to order, we await the wearer with confidence. 

On her arri\al the first thing to be done is to get the garment properl\- on, carefully 
adjusting it at the top of back-neck, and arranging the underw ear so that there is no accumulation 
of materiol round the scye. This being done, bring the fronts well over, but before joining the 
edges together, notice the general hang of the garment. If there is a tendency to drop away in 
front, the front shoulder is too long; if there is a draggmg from the neck downwards, the front 
is too short; both of which effect should be recitified by rippiag the sleeves out and the shoulders, 
and arranging the balance so that it is in harmony with the wearer's figure at shoulder-seam. 

Now take the two front edges and pinch them together between the finger and thumb, 
aid pin the two foreparts together. This being done, make a mark with chalk down the front 
where the pins are. Also make a mark round the waist. This being done, proceed to examine 
the va.ious points of the garme.it i.i proper sequence. 

The back may be done by locating four points. 1-The top of back neck. 2-The back 
scye. 3-The back waist. 4-The lower part of the back. Next comes the sleeve, and with this 
we have to note that it is the correct length, width and balance. After the sleeves comes the front, 
and here, ajain, we have four points, viz., the top of forepart at neck; the shoulder and front 
of scye; the front at waist, and the lower part of the front. If this points are gone over sys- 
tematically, then every part of the garment will come under examination. 



320 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



Fn marking alterations, do not hesitate to use pins, or to chalk the existence of a defect. 
If possible, the garment should be adjusted to wearer's requirements while it is on, and to do this 
successfully the fitter will require patience and coolness. It is not always easy to tell exactly what 
is wrong, as sometimes there is a combination of defects, but a study of alterations will give 
some usefull hints in this matter. 

In the matter of trying-on skirts, it is allways well to have the seams basted outside, as 
they are easier to alter. The points to notice in fitting skirts are, balance or hang, fit over hips, 
and length. It is well to bear in mind that fitting the body is only a small part of the fitter's 
duty. The real art lies in pleasing the wearer, and giving her what she approves. 

It is important that the greatest care should be taken in the cutting, fitting, and manipula- 
tion of garment; also it is important that the garment should be carefully examined when finish- 
ed, to see that all the details are faithfully carried out according to instructions. 

The examining of a finished garment is quite as much the work of a master hand as any 
of the others. When "cocking" a job, a journeyman will soon sum up what a cutter is worth 
in that direction, and to what extent, if he is so inclined, he can take liberties. 

A master hand will take hold of a garment in such a way that it will impress the tailor 
at once that it is not the first job by a long way that he has examined and that in future he has 
to be very careful in what state he brings the job to be passed. Whilst, on the other hand the novice 
or inexperienced man will handle it in an awkward way, as if he were frightened of it. Ftrst of all he 
looks at this, then at that, then at something else; then he comes back again to the first and so on. 
He does not examine any particular part carefully and methodically. 

In examining a garment there should be as much system used as in doing anything else. Begin 
by examining one part carefully, then another, and so on until the garment is finished. I do not 
mean that every stitch should be carefully looked into: I think if there is a fair sewing it should be 
sufficient. Finding fault with every little thing is not examining a job. Finding fault is the easiest thing 
in the world; everybody can do that; and there is not a job made in the ordinary \\ay but what the 
cutter can find fault with if he wants. 

The perfection of a finished garment does not consist in the smallness or the number of stitch- 
es there are in that garment, but in the thought and skill that is put in it in creating a thing that 
comprises those little things which make a work of art. 

Firs of all in examining a garment, get hold of it in such a way that you create an impression 
that you know what you are about, and that your desire is not to find fault, but to see a work of art. 
First of all take the garment in your right hand, place your left hand in the left scye, and see how 
the front and sleeve hang; see that the canvas and linings are not in too short; that the sleeve hangs 
fair; reverse the action on to the other side, and examine the same as the other; then put both 
hands in the scye and see that the collar is on fair; then have a look at the. back by holding 
the garment up, by getting hold of both sleeves at the back; then examine the run of the seams 
to see that they run is even ; that there is no straining where they should be even, and that there 
is no fulling on of one part when it ought to have been strained. Turn your attention to the 
inside, and see that the linings are in long in the waist, because if not it will prove detriment- 
al to the fit. 

When you are satisfied with these points, and that the sewing is all that is should be, then, 
for final inspection place it on a form and see how the general fit and hang of the garment is, 
whether the sleeves are pitched properly, and that they are both the same, with the fulness or 
plaits placed excactly the same on both sides; whether the collar commands the turn, and whether 
it is too long or too short, and if the collar is of a fancy design, and trimming is carried out 
according to instructions. See that the run of the smallest part of the waist is correct; that there 
is no drag or fulness when it should be clean. 



THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



321 



PART ELEVEN 



ALTERATIONS 



In marking alterations, do not hesitate to use pins, or chalk the existeiice of a defect. 
If possible, the garment should be adjusted to wearers requirements whilst it is on, and to do 
this succesfully, the fitter will require pitience and coolness. It is not always easy to tell exactly 
what is wrong:, as sometimes there is a combination of defects, but a study of the chapter on 
alterations will give some usefull hints in this matter. 

In the matter of trying-on skirts, it is always well to have the seams baisted on the 
outside, as they are easier to alter. The points to notice in fitting skirts are: balance or hang, 
fit over the hips, and length. 

Alterations arise from errors in size 
and errors in form. Defects show them- 
selves principally in three ways: creases, 
folds, twists. 

Creases arise from a back of material. 
Folds arise from an excess of material. 
Tv\ists arise from bad work. 



Creases 



Creases from neck-point to front of 
scye ( Diagram 1 ) are caused by an insuffi- 
cient distance from neck to front of scye; 
remedy; let out front neck and shoulder 
at shoulder-point, reducing the shoulder to 
proper width at scye end. 

Creases at side (Diagram 2) arise 
from insufficient distance from prominence 
of bust to hips; remedy: let out under 
the arm and reduce waist to size at back 
darts. 

Crease from side to front (Diagram 
3 ) caused by the front being to small at 
the bottom, and this probably arises from 
a too long front shoulder; if so, take )fT 
from the front neck and shoulder at the 
neck-point; but if it is all right at shoulder 
let out bottom of front. 

Creases from top of forearm of sleeve 
to elbow at back : Take off at the top of 
the hindarm, and lengthen sleeve at cuff. 
This is equal to adding on a piece at the 
top of the forearm. 




322 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



These samples must suffice to illustrate the principle that creases indicate a shortness in 
the way they run, and to remedy them, more length must be given in the direction they run. 



Folds 



Folds arise from an excess of material in the opposite way to which they run; those 
horizontal folds show an excess of length, vertical folds an excess of width. Take the case of a 
sleeve having several folds at the top of forearm ; the remedy for this is to take off a piece from 
the top of the forearm 

Folds over the hips : This is an excess of length produced by the garment being forced 
upwards owing to a tightness over the hips. The remedy is to let out at the hips, and this will 
allow the garment to drop into its proper place. 

Sometimes this defect arises from a shortness of lining, in which case the lining must be 
lengthened, or else the jacket must be shortened, and the lining put in the necessary amount fuller. 
It is always well to remember that the linings should be put in long over the waist. 

Folds around the neck; These arise from the lining or facings being put in to narrow. To 
remedy, hollow out gorge slightly at the shoulder point, but especially let the facing out across the 
shoulder. The facing should always be put in wider across the shoulders. 

Folds across the back: These are caused by too much length in the upper part of the back. 
The remedy is to shorten the back at the upper part. 

Fold from front of scye to prominence of bust: This is perhaps better described as ful- 
ness, as the fold is V-shaped. The best way to remedy this is to let out under the arm at the side 
seam, and take in the back dart, in order to reduce it to the size of waist. 

Fulness at front edge: This is caused by the front edge being cut round, and as the round 
is always relatively longer than the straight, so it is the cause of the fulness. The remedy is to 
let out at the bottom of front and reduce the size of waist by either enlarging the dart or taking 
out another dart. 

Tight armholes may arise from three different causes; they may be too narrow, they may 
be to shallow, or they may be too tight on the top. The best remedy for the first one is to let 
out the underarm-seam: the best remedy for the second one is to lower the armhole; and the best 
remedy for the third one to let out at shoulder end. It is not necessary that it should be done 
on back as well as forepart, as inlays are only left on the forepart as a rule, and that is quite 
anough for the purpose. 



Twisting 



Twisted seams are caused by careless work. The seams has not been properly baisted, and 
the machine has driven the top layer down, and fulled on the lower one. To remedy this the 
only plan to rip the seams and sew them so that they go together fairly. 



PART TWELVE 



SKETCHING 



324 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



To be able to sketch is of great value to you as a manufacturer, designer, 
cutter, tailor, salesman, etc. in connection with the womens' wear trade. 

You can make yourself more valuable and that means more succes and more 
money for you. 

It is vital importance that each figure should be practiced diligently. 

It is well for you to surround yourself with Fashion Magazines and to observe 
from them the various methods employed by the different artists. 



THE AMERICA!^ DESIGNER AND CUTTER 



325 



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THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 




INDEX 



Title 5 

Preface 7 

Introduction 9 

What a Designer should know 10 

Ladies' Tailors Qualifications 10 

System 11 

Good lines 11 

Contrasts 12 

Fashions 12 

Style 12 

PART ONE 
Womens' Garments 

How to take Measurement 14-15 

Comparative Proportions for Normal Wom- 
ens' Sizes 17 
Table of Proportionate Masurements for 

Women 17 

Systematic Outline 18-19 

Tight-Fitting with one dart 20-21 

Tight-Fitting with two darts 22-23 

Tight-Fitting back and Semi-Fitting front 24-25 

26-27 
28-29 
30-31 
32-33 
34-35 
36-37 



B.ouse 

Basque or Tunic Skirt 

Tight-Fitting Eton with one Dart 

Tight-Fitting Eton with two Darts 

Tig^it-Fitting Eton with one Side Gore 

Tight-Fitting Eton with French Seam 

Tight-Fitting French Seam with underarm 

Gore 38-39 

Tight-Fitting Double French Seam 40-41 

Tight-Fitting 18 Gores 42-43 

Tight-Fitti.ig 22 Gores 44-45 

Semi-Fitting Back and Loose Front 46-47 

Semi-Fitting with Dart in front 48-49 

Semi-Fitting French Seam 50-51 

Semi-Fitting Hipless Effect 52-53 

Semi-Fitting Coat with underarm Gore 54-55 

Sack Coat with Loose Front 56-57 

Sack Coat with Shaped Front 58-59 

How to make Shoulder-Dart 60-61 

Loose Box Coat 62-63 
Loose Box Coat with Front-Shoulder Dart 64-65 

Coat Sleeve 66-67 

Sleeve with fulness on toj) 68-69 

One Piece Sleeve 68-fc9 

Bishop Sleeve 70-71 

One Piece Tight Sleeve 72-73 
One Piece Tight Sleeve with middle seam 72-73 

Collars and Lapels 74-75 

Collars 76-77 

Capes 78-79 

Yoke and Hood 80-81 

Cape Coat 82-83 

Cape with Kimono Sleeve 84-83 

Coat with Kimono Sleeve 86-87 

Raglan Coat 88-89 

Deep Armhole Coat 90-91 

One Piece Coat 92-93 



New Market 94-95 

Inverness 96-97 

Opera Cloak 98-99 

Manipulation of Fronts and Backs 100-101 

Vest 102-105 

Stouts 106 
Table of Proportionote Measurement for 

Stouts 107 

Semi-Fitting French Seam for Stout 108-109 

Shirt Waist 110-111 

Shirt waist with Side gore 112-113 

Tight-Fitting Waist Lining 114-115 
Tight-Fitting Waist Lining with Side gore 116-117 

Sleeve for Waist 118-119 

One Piece Sleeves 120-123 

Standing or Military Collar 124-125 

Collars for waists 126-127 

Yoke 128-129 

Shield 128-129 

Waist with Kimono Sleeves 130-131 

One Piece Butterfly Waist 132-133 

Waist with Raglan Sleeve 132-133 

Measurement for Skirts 134-135 

Systematic Outline for Skirts 136-137 

Two Gore Skirt 138-139 

Three and Four Gore Skirt 140-141 

Four Gore (Panel) Skirt 142-143 

Five Gore Skirt 144-145 

Six Gore Skirt 146-147 

Seven Gore Skirt 148-249 

Nine Goi-e Flare Skirt 150-151 

Eleven Gore Flounce Skirt 152-153 

Thirteen Gore Plaited Skirt 154-135 

Circular Skirts 156-157 

Circular Skirt in Gores 158-159 

Princess Skirt 160-161 

Skirt with fixed bottom wilth 132-163 

Skirts for Stouts ie4-lC5 

Princess Slip 166-167 

PART TWO 
Misses' Garments 

Table of Proportionate Measureme^.ts for 

Misses' Sizes 17] 

Systematic Outline for Misses' Sizes 172-173 

Tight-Fitting French Seam 174-175 
Semi-Fitting-witting with Dart in Front 176-177 

Sack Coat with Loose Front 178-179 

Loose Box Coat 180-181 

Blouse 182-183 

Sleeve 184-185 
Systematic Outline for Misses' Skirts 186-187 

Seven Gore Skirt 188-189 

PART THREE 
Juniors' Garments 

Table of Proportionate Measurement for 

Juniors' Sizes 193 

Semi-Fitting French Seam 194-195 



LTBRflRY OF CONGRESS 




013 973 177 3 



Loose Box Coat 

Blouse 

Sleeve 

Five Gore Skirt 

Circular Skirt 



1%-197 
198-199 
200-201 
202-203 
204-205 



209 
211 
213 
215 
217 
219 
221 
223 
225 
.227 
229 
233 
235 
237 
239 



PART FOUR 
Childrens' Garments 

Table of Proportionate Measurements for 

Childrens' Sizes 208- 

Systematic Outline 210 

Tight-Fitting 212- 

Semi-Fitting 214- 

Sack Coat 216- 

Loose Box Coat 218- 

Sleeve 220 

Tight-Fitting Waist Lining 222 

Waist 224- 

Coat Dress 226 

Military or Standing Collar 228 

One Piece Sleeves 230- 

Collars 234- 

Systematic Outline for Childrens' Skirts 236 

Five Gore Skirt 238- 

PART FIVE 
Infants' Garments 

Table of Proportionate Measurements for 

Infants' Sizes 243 

Systematic Outline for Infants' Sizes 244-245 

Loose Box Coat 246-247 

Sleeve 248-249 

Coat Dress 250-251 

One Piece Sleevesl 252-253 

Infants' Yoke \ 254-255 

Infants' Shield 254-255 

Hood 256-257 

PART SIX 
Grading 

Art of Grading 260 

Scale of Regular Stock Patterns 261 

Tight-Fitting with Dart 262 

Semi-Fitting with Side Gore 263 

Eton 264 

Semi-Fitting French Seam 265 

Tight-Fitting French Seam 266 

Tight-Fitting Double French Seam 267 
How to grade Misses' Sizes from Ladies' 

Size Patterns 2(i8 

Misses' and Juniors' Tight-Fitting 269 



Misses' and Juniors' Tight-Fitting French 

Seam 270 

Childrens' and Infants' Semi-Fitting 271 
Childrens' and Infants' Loose Box Coat 272 

Sleeves 273 

Capes, Yokes, Collars, Cuffs 274 

Length of Garments 275 

Grading Lengths 275 

Grading Skirts 276 

PART SEVEN 
Special Measurement 

Foundation of Garment Cutting 278-279 
How to take Special Measurement 280-281 
Systematic Outline for Special Measure- 
ment 282-283 
Tight-Fitting French Seam 284-285 
Semi-Fitting with Dart in Front 286-287 
Systematic Outline, No Seams 288-289 
Tight-Fitting Jacket, No Seams 290-291 
How to take Special Measurement for 
Direct Short Measure System 292 

PART EIGHT 
Riding and Sporting Garments 

Riding Skirts 294-295 

Side Saddle Safety Riding Skirt 296-297 

Apron Riding Skirt 298-299 

Hints on Making Apron Riding Skirts 300-301 
Cutting Riding Skirts by Model Patterns 302-303 
Ride Astride Skirt 304-305 

Making Ride Astride Skirts 306-307 

Riding Coat, Special Measure, No Seams 308-309 
Riding Coat, Special Measure, with Seams 310-311 
Pantaloon Skirt 312-313 

Ladies' Riding Breeches 314-315 

Leggings 316 

Gaiters 316 

PART NINE 

Practical Tailoring 317-318 



Fitting 



Sketching 



PART TEN 



PART ELEVEN 



PART TWELVE 



335-336 



c^,^ 



(^~ /n 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




